So frankly we both don't know wtf we are talking about ...

 

first off dude you need to get your info right. term has tuned a couple other cobalts that are pushing around the same numbers as me drewbroo is one of them also BYT has 09whiteSS something that has just a lil higher numbers than i do. My tune ive had on my car for awhile now and i havnt had any problems what so ever other than the stock clutch slipping. whos pushing 350whp on cali pump 91? im calling BS or a very happy dyno because i know that cat **** for gas you have out there wont cut it we have the same in az that was the big reason why im running a e85 mix as well as methanol injection. so you need to cool your jets.

 

Maybe the SMOG increases octane?

 

Look, Whatever you guys do is great and overall if your happy with what you have then awesome. Im just the kinda guy that like everything on a car to be unique and dont exploit/preach that only certain tunes are best. I guess in your situation where its more economical for you, you did that mix and got some nice numbers. Now did anyone want to answer the questions that I asked Term? Lets take your car then, how long does your car make that power for? Does it do it efficiently with the stock turbo? is that at Redline? I'm not trying to push this on cause really what does it matter, I'm just asking what i asked Term is all.


Now, once you guys get this new stage 1 or 2 then we'll really see some numbers and efficiency ranges on the turbo that will be more in line with what I like.

yep,

 

Travel to the dyno thread and look at the graph...easy to figure out all of your questions.

 

Update on the car...
Went out and drove it around a little. Everything is installed. Tuning will happen shortly. Beware that you will have to do something about the charge pipes because the stock turbo has a 3" tip on it for where the hot side charge piping connects that the Stage II does not. This means your CP will be about 3" short. I'll upload a pic later to show...

 

check terminator2 signature he has a link to my dyno graph. and my car holds over 300whp all the way to redline which is 7k

 

So come on is it spooling like normal or what and what else . Need more info now!!!! lol

 

You cant put a bigger turbo on and just go WOT'ing around right away :p

 

Sure you can, BOOM!

 

Update on my half is that i like this turbo. Spools a little faster then my other 2871 and still holds 26psi till redline. Still tuned for old setup.

 

My car made 342 whp 378 wrtq on a dynojet and 362 whp 393 wtrq on a dynocom no E-85 no meth and 24 psi. It holds power pretty well until 6500 RPMs. FF-aces car made more than mine but he has E-85/91 octane and a small meth nozzle. RYRIDESMOTOX's car I tuned is close to 350 whp on 91 octane out in Cali (310 whp 370 wtrq on a mustang dyno)

 

i just need to dyno mine.....

 

Waiting on ##'s

 

so you have inflated dynos out there thats nothing new :P

the only number that actually sounds normal is the mustang dyno numbers

the fact that the dynocom read 20 whp higher and 17 wtrq higher then the DYNOJET should make you throw it out right away

just busting chops btw i know you're a good tuner but inflated numbers are just that.. for all you know the kappa could be putting down 400 whp on your dynojet or whatever

 

All relative. Dynojets read ~13% higher than a properly calibrated mustang dyno but most dynojets read within 1% of each other because there is no operator error like mustang dynos and dynocoms. My car did make only 242 whp stock on that dynocom. Never got a chance to dyno stock on the dynojet but it would have likely made 228-230 whp stock. IMHO the best way to try to compare numbers is for everyone to use dynojet numbers and the same correction factor, using STD, SAE, or Uncorrected does not matter if everyone is using the same one.

 

this is true.. least then numbers could be looked at relatively / objectively

242 stock makes sense however. like you said operator error could've made your second dyno higher

thats one thing that sucks.. when there is operator error

 

Guys seriously let's quit all the back and forth arguing and use this thread for what it's here for BNR.

 

Dynojet numbers can be affected just as easily as Mustang numbers. Calibrations and weather station parameters can be way off. A michigan Grand Prix club dyno'd at Baker Engineering on their Dynojet and several people had numbers 5 to 7% lower than they had recently tested on VT Engines Dynojet. More importantly, though is that stating a peak dyno number really only means that the car put that amount of power to the roller at one instance in time, for a fraction of a second in some cases. I recently saw someone post that they dyno'd xx amount of power, but the clutch was slipping so it should be higher. Well this is not necessarily true. In fact, a slipping clutch often makes the peak HP number higher. Much the same way that spinning your tires can give you a higher mph in your 1/4 mile run, a slipping clutch allows your motor to reach a higher RPM and stay there while the drivetrain catches up. While power numbers early in the graph will be lower, the peak power is often higher. This is due to the stored energy of the motor because it is already spinning at a high RPM. There are many other ways that dyno numbers can be inflated as well without technically being "inaccurate." That type of stuff rarely gets disscussed, however.

 

^word

 

Looks like tuning should start in earnest today...it will only be interrupted for the Packer game party we'll be having...but even then only minimally!

 

I'm waiting on my computer for your results man.

 

keep us up to date man I would like to know what boost you are running and if it holds

 

Sup,


RYRIDEMOTOX's car is who I was talking about making 350 on pump. See I didn't know that you tuned his using pump. That's what I like to see and I know him personally. Just not a fan of the whole E85/91 and Meth, that doesn't even sound cost effective.

 

Any pics yet of how you solved the 3" space from the UICP to the Turbo?