No need to go from a dig, 1st gear would be useless anyway hehe, i would like to see how quick the 2nd gear respond vs what i run right now, and also see the 3rd gear, 4th also IF you have a safe area to do it.

A dig up to 140 would do the trick for sure lol
And may be show some pulls from like 55mph in 3rd, and also some from 2nd gear, just to show of quick the turbo respond.

Would be nice to see that!

 

This

 

well second is useless to so u guys know but i might have a race tonight with a z06 lol. if not i will do a run anyway.

 

C6 or C5?

 

c6 black

 

Nice!

Looking forward to seeing that vid. That's one of those kinds of vids that I don't really care who wins just because it's that plain exciting to watch.

(I do tend to root for the underdog though. lol)

 

Yeah, I've driven a C6Z06, and unless something goes terribly, terribly wrong, he should take you np. 12.5" rear tires to hold the road and 515hp, that thing is just wicked. I can't even begin to tell you what it's like to have that much traction with that much power. Insane.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L729eQpudKk

 

yeah but the guy doesnt know how to drive lol. I found that out quick at inde motorsport ranch when he put his car 100 ft into the graval. and i tried to race him before from a roll at 60 and he just wanted to take off on me at 35 and 45 no honking. when we did get to 60 he took off then when he got back to 60 i took off and we where even till he missed a gear. from the dig i took him off the line by a car.

 

so its recomended to run a bov with the 2871 set up.
wat kind? recirculated or vented to atm?
if i were to want a tial bov, what kind does anyhone recomend???
help anyone? lol

 

My BOV is vent to atm. but i sure it doesnt matter what one.

 

Yeah, that used to be a valid topic of discussion, due to the car likely needing to keep the air that it metered to keep from going rich, but it was found that there were no side effects to speak of due to the car cutting metering/fueling between shifts anyway.

 

so it doesnt matter? personal preference?

 

Clutch is holding well ATM after some well thought out tuning adjustments. Lost about a tenth off my personal best 60-100 with bringing boost on much smoother, which IMO, is nothing.

My theory was that the 2860 would push the torque peak to the 'right' a little and be a little easier on the clutch.

 

Dyno Graph - Chevy Cobalt Picture Gallery


This is with the old gt2871 i had. Once i get fine tuned on 26 psi with new one i will dyno it.

 

Yeah the clutch should hold fine with some creative tuning. Do we loose a little speed with having to hold the power delivery back a bit below the curve? Sure, but not enough to hold us back from bolting the new snail on anyways

Mine arrived today btw. It goes on Sunday

 

My stock clutch slips in third with what I have now, I'm putting on a six puck kevlar ceramic.

 

How does the butt dyno compare the 2 GT2871 counterparts? I cant wait for some results.

 

Mine used to slip on a much less powerful tune than I have now and it doesnt slip anymore. I think my first HPT tune had too much power coming on too quick below the curve and the clutch didnt like it. That can be solved in the tune. Unless it just slips like crazy no matter what you do tuning-wise, then its def time for a new one. Im pushing a lot more power now on BYTs tune on E blend and it holds perfectly

Do I want a more powerful clutch so I can put a little more TQ down to the wheels? Yes, and I will get a clutch in the future, but the stocker will do for now. Im thinking either a Spec 2+ or a ZZP Stage 3.

 

This is what I was thinking too. Tax money just came in so once my new turbo gets here its a go

 

Anyone want to sell their stock bpv and the three 10mm bolts? The used turbo I bought didn't have them?

 

Just get the stage 2 and be done with it ,

get an aftermarket bov

 

I'll sell you a brand new block off plate from TTR.

 

The turbo I bought is for the core exchange, maybe I don't even need the bpv? Thoughts?

 

Top end feels the same but a lot more bottom end

 

If you are getting the stage 2 you don't need it for the core. You need an aftermarket BOV and upper charge pipe for stage 2. MAF relocation would think could be a good investment as well..


If you are getting stage 1 you use the stock one ... From what I can tell.....