MAF relocation or recirculate the BOV back into the intake post MAF.

 

Wouldn't you need to tap the intake some how then ?

 

Yes. That is the PITA part. But a MAF relocate is not much easier honestly.

 

Treadstone has MAF flanges. Just get one welded to your lower cp

 

 

its actually pretty easy mine is already setup for bov recirc

 

1 psi = 2.02 in/hg vac or pressure, so 11 psi spring should keep it closed through 22.2" vac if I understand you correctly. Mine idles at 21 in/hg vacuum.

 

It is generally understood that you are supposed to run any BOV that vents to atmosphere before the MAF. Aside from MAF readings that are way too high right after you let off the throttle, the other problem with running it the way you are is that you are now forced to use a very stiff spring to keep the valve fully closed at idle/cruise which will sacrifice response when you really need the BOV to open quickly.

 

Here's an old thread from BYT, also addressing the topic, if that helps.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...truths-212311/

 

yes I would like to know what matt thinks about this. I am thinking about getting the lower cp and I will get the MAF relocate just to make tunning a little better but I have not had a problem with my BOV and I was not tuned for it....also it is a quick ppsshhh not the ppsshhppsshhhppsshh

 

Yes, we can run a VTA with draw through MAF both on an LNF easier than on other cars because the ECM does target a much leaner AFR on decelleration than many other cars. The problem that we run into is that with VVT, LNFs pull a lot of vacuum at idle. 21"+ vacuum is not uncommon. As I was saying in my last post, needing to run a 22" spring to keep the valve closed at idle, the spring is too stiff to allow the valve to respond quickly when it needs to open. Running an 18" spring will result in much quicker BOV response. Of course this requires a MAF relocate at this point because it will be open slightly at idle and cruise. Personally, I prefer to set it up this way for the best BOV performance. The truth is that neither way is ideal. Maybe we need to set up a vacuum circuit that will allow us to run a very soft spring yet keep the valve closed when it's not needed. It could interact with the factory BPV solenoid. Hmm...

 

Anyone know exactly how I am supposed to modify the coolant line to adapt it to the 2860? Both the 2860 and 2871 use the same CHRA. Why wouldnt the 2860 need the new coolant line that comes with the 2871? They have the same connections. Its not like stock. The stock K04 has the coolant connections on the same side of the CHRA whereas on the GT28 they are on opposite sides of each other. I suppose I can try and bend the coolant line to fit....

 

what you do recirculate the BOV is it suppose to go before or after the BOV?



heres a pic of how i had it setup when i had my dejon 5457 turbo kit

 

there is no new coolant line for the 2871 you have to flip one of the coolant lines around and slight bend a oil line to get it to fit i had tglems take pics when i installed his. he should post them up

 

Oh okay. Its just that I have info from BNR where he said he included a modified line saying that the 2860 didnt need it. Maybe he decided it wasnt necessary. I guess I will bend them to fit then. This is from the info:

'Since the coolant ports are on opposite sides on the BNR CHRA (center housing rotating assembly), there will be a banjo fitting and coolant hose that is supplied with the turbocharger upgrades.'

 

the coolant line that go on the side of the turbo facing the motor you have to flip it upside down and bend it just a little to get it to fit

 

Okay cool. Ill go try that now. thanks for the info!

 

no problem

 

Well, finally got her on. The one I received was missing one of the studs that the elbow flange bolts on to and when I tried to put one of the ones from the stocker it wouldnt screw in...even with an impact. It was a pain and I didnt want to try tapping steel so I decided to go buy a nut and bolt and be done with it. It all worked out in the end. It was a learning experience for sure because those lines do not line up and it took some creative routing and bending to get it to work. Just waiting for BYT to send me a driveable tune cause shes knocking like crazy right now. I guess the E blend and different turbo are too many variables for the ECU. Here a re a few pics:

EDIT: The knock was caused by my fiddling with the WG rod trying to make it like stock. Bad idea. Basically it was keeping the WG open ALL the time.

 

gotta let me know what kinda numbers you put down on that thang

 

Sorry guys about getting the video been out of town but now back and found out there is a dyno day saturday so i going to dyno the car.

 

wewt~!

 

Sweet. Cant wait to see what the new 2871 does

 

Anyone have any thoughts on WG rod adjustement?

The stock one looks like this, the '[]'s are the nuts:

===[]=[]====-->WG Can

BNR looked like this

[]=[]=======-->WG Can

I adjusted the BNR to look like stock. Mistake?

 

You mean the 2860 is supposed to have a coolant hose supplied? If so, didn't get it.

My 2860 also has only 3 studs [Twilight Zone Theme].