Changing Front Brembos
I was searching through some videos about just this topic (since I'm doing my rotor/pad replacement this weekend) and came across this 
YouTube: How-To Change Pads on Brembo Caliper
Caliper is damned near identical to ours so this should help anyone who's curious. Now where are all my tools

YouTube: How-To Change Pads on Brembo Caliper
Caliper is damned near identical to ours so this should help anyone who's curious. Now where are all my tools
Ya, just remember ours don't have the retaining clip on the end. Your best bet is to crank one of the pins out but hold the spring down as the first pin slides past. After that the second pin should come loose far easier after brake dust build-up, etc decides to break loose
. We had to crank on ours pretty good this weekend to get them to most in the first place, after that no issues.
. We had to crank on ours pretty good this weekend to get them to most in the first place, after that no issues.
My passenger side needed a pretty good cracking with a drift to get them out, but it also helps if you have someone to help out by pushing the spring down while you're doing it. Once the build-up breaks up a few good cracks and they should start to move
. I know the feeling though, the video made it look so easy, get to performing the task and I thought I was going to need dynamite before the one set let go!
. I know the feeling though, the video made it look so easy, get to performing the task and I thought I was going to need dynamite before the one set let go!
Hey I have stock brembo pads that I purchased from crate engine depot.com and I really do not need them. I actually am a little low on cash and was looking to see if anyone would want them. I wouldnt mind selling them at a discount but not ripping myself off like I said I do need the cash lol. You can email me and I can send pictures and more info if you are interested. Thank You
The pointed end. Try grabbing the middle of the pin with pliers and turning it, will help loosen it up. Then take a punch to the small end of the pin and knock it through.
My pads are still going, can anyone confirm that there's a sensor up front that lets you know when to change pads? I thought i read that somewhere but i can't seem to find the post "SVC BRAKES" or something like that in the DIC?
There is no sensor off the pads. Just some loud ass squealing if you get to the little wear marker, which will score your rotor some.
Italian Joe (Florida) and Wangspeed (meticulous maintenence) have not seen the disgusting effects of advanced corrosion on Brembo's that I am seeing. Even a guy like Nina44 who really looks after his cars, the pins are seized, and the caliper housing is pitted inside at the pad bridge.
A year ago, gentle heat would release the seized caliper pins. Now gentle wont work, the pin has to be red hot, and like Italian Joe says, rotate the pin and punch it out with a flat end thin punch.
For the cost of Calipers, I am saying "buy new, CED 600 + $"
Because once you get the pins out, the pistons are so badly corroded on the pad face its not funny.
so strip, clean,wire brush, copper anti seize on pins, pad bridge, pad ends, piston/pad shims , remove bleeders and clean, new pistons and seals etc. I am saying full service every spring and fall.Its no different than the sliders on LSJ or the Tahoe/pick me up trucks, Ford Chrysler they are all susceptible to corrosion. I think the brine they spray on the roads up here in Canada is an environmental disgrace and makes it worse. Florida/Arizona is the place to live.
A year ago, gentle heat would release the seized caliper pins. Now gentle wont work, the pin has to be red hot, and like Italian Joe says, rotate the pin and punch it out with a flat end thin punch.
For the cost of Calipers, I am saying "buy new, CED 600 + $"
Because once you get the pins out, the pistons are so badly corroded on the pad face its not funny.
so strip, clean,wire brush, copper anti seize on pins, pad bridge, pad ends, piston/pad shims , remove bleeders and clean, new pistons and seals etc. I am saying full service every spring and fall.Its no different than the sliders on LSJ or the Tahoe/pick me up trucks, Ford Chrysler they are all susceptible to corrosion. I think the brine they spray on the roads up here in Canada is an environmental disgrace and makes it worse. Florida/Arizona is the place to live.
i had to cut the pin on my passenger side after beating the **** out of it trying to get it out i took it to my dealership with the pin stuck in there and told them to get it out they replaced it 2 days later new caliper but thats when i was under warranty only a few more months left
def agree that brine the balt will never see a winter again once when that stuff gets laid down she goes to sleep
Lol, so glad I don't live in an area where it snows. I'd be pissed if I had to deal with crap like that on a regular basis. I hate getting rusty cars on the occasion that I do see them now, if every car was a pile of crap stuck together, i'd find a new profession
control arms

stock ls springs broken

amazing, the coating stands up on the stock springs, The broken coil bothers me a bit. But all the aftermarket springs rust awful....
The springs, the OEM coating is like a rubbery oil coating, not sure what it is, but the parts are dipped into a solution that holds up extremely well to all weather conditions. They put the same stuff on the truck frames, it's almost like a very thick goo.
The aftermarket stuff is just painted, any paint just doesn't last well enough in an environment like that. One little break and you get rust under it, game over.
There is no sensor off the pads. Just some loud ass squealing if you get to the little wear marker, which will score your rotor some.
got me r1 rotors and some hawk pads love the stopping power but the squeaks drive me off the wall ive tried every thing to get them to stop i took the hawk pads off and threw on the factory ones and squeaks went away just pissed i spent that much on the hawks that i could of dropped another 20 and gotten the fedora and not have the squeaks
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