i'm nervous. i'm all stock fittings and charge piping. spiking to about 29 and holding strong
at 24.5 up to 6k. every time i floor it i cringe. lol. just waiting for something to pop.
i am on a mission though. the 12's. once i hit 12's, i'm going back to the old tune and taking the pill out. (until i get charge pipes and t-bolt clamps).

 

You already have t-bolt clamps at the IC.

 

Yep, I wouldn't boost that high (29 psi) on the stock lower CP, the rubber couplers were bagging out after 30k miles of boost when I replaced the lower CP with the ZZP & silicone couplers. Pics of new intake & CP in images link at left. .030 pill boosts 24 psi at 4500 rpm, tapers off to ~18psi at 7k with my current DAL tables. I could do more up top with a smaller 'pill' but it overspools the turbo quite a bit. I'm sure I could get back under 5 sec again on the ricer pulls.

MIG welding tips are an easy way to change restriction. .030 wire tip is really an .040 port. I checked it with some number drills I have a small set of. You have to be able to custom tune for the increased boost.

 

i'm playing russian roulette it sounds like.

 

>24psi + long hard pulls = greater than average chance of piston ring land failures. GM engineers have posted in the past that the excessive heat causes the rings to expand greater than the end gaps allow causing them to gouge into the cyl wall, popping the ring lands.

I have ~41k miles so mine isn't that tight anymore anyway.

I went back to 2 range colder plugs to help lower the comb temps a bit since I never had any fouling with them.

YMMV.

 

Have you guys thought of using a small fitting that has a hole in it...like one of those NPT boost hose fittings or maybe a small Vacuum line connector? That might be better than a small piece of metal. There's always a chance that it could dislodge and get sucked into the moto. Having said all this I think +24 lbs could be asking for *problems* later on.

 

The pill line runs from the boost control solenoid under the turbo to a fitting on the top of the scroll area of the turbo. The welding tip is 1/4 od and isn't going anywhere, at least on mine.

Thinking of replacing it with a needle valve if I can find something appropriate. A remote needle valve assembly from a larger model aircraft engine comes to mind. Quite precise.

 

Here's kinda what I'm talking about:

 

damn it i am broke stop it! you are making me more nervous than i already am!!

 

OK, I'll stop now.

 

thank you.