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08-10 SS Turbocharged General Discussion Discuss the 2008 - 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS Turbocharged. On sale since the second quarter of 2008.

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Old 05-17-2015, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbos'ss View Post
The heads on the regal/saab lhu are different. On the exhaust cam is a cam driven vacuum pump for the brake booster. The injectors are different as well. There is a sensor installed in the oil pan. The valve cover is different and so are the PCV lines. Other than that it looks to be a direct swap so far. I'm right in the middle of mine. I'll let you know if anything else is different or needs to be changed for swapping into a cobalt.
What's different about the pcv lines? Mine hooked up exactly the same as the lnf. Most of those differences are superficial to us. If yours came with the brake booster pump there may be a way to hook it up to the brakes like on the regal. You can leave the sensor unplugged.

The im is supposedly different as well. There's a slight modification to it to make it work, can't remember what it is. The lnf fuel rail and im bolt right up tho. No problem.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by emecham View Post
Did you order from zzp? If so, it'll come with intake and exhaust manifold gaskets
Yes from ZZP
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbos'ss View Post
The heads on the regal/saab lhu are different. On the exhaust cam is a cam driven vacuum pump for the brake booster. The injectors are different as well. There is a sensor installed in the oil pan. The valve cover is different and so are the PCV lines. Other than that it looks to be a direct swap so far. I'm right in the middle of mine. I'll let you know if anything else is different or needs to be changed for swapping into a cobalt.
LDK has that sensor on the oil pan also since our cars dont use it you can just leave it unplugged.
from my experience the PCV lines on the LDK VC are slightly larger than the LNF lines. I only know this because when I did the turbo upgrade kit from zzp they had a small bolt you used to block off one of the lines from the VC and it was smaller than the hole. About fell down into my head haha.

There are quite a few small differences between the blocks but overall they don't really matter when mating to our cars. I am interested in hearing what you do for the head. You going LNF head or something? or sticking with the LHU head?
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:14 AM
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There's a bunch of little differences. The exhaust manifold from the lhu puts the turbo up about an inch. The dipstick from the lnf won't bolt to the IM because it sits higher in the oil pan so if you're using the lhu pan, get the lhu dipstick. The pcv line coming off the middle of the valve cover needs to be swapped with an lnf one. As you can see in the pics, the vacuum pump coming off the exhaust cam sticks out quite a ways. If it fits in the car, I'll actually use it. If not I'll fab a block off plate. If you go the block off route, you'll need to make a recess for the little oil port that's cast into the head. There's a few more things to note as I come across stuff I'll post it. Also bare in mind, my lhu was pulled from a regal, if you're buying from zzp they might already set yours up for the cobalt.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:53 AM
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That's a great list. I didn't think about a lot of that stuff since mine was zzp sourced. I had heard that the turbo sits higher. I wasn't sure if it was the head or exhaust manifold. I'm glad it appears to be the manifold. Mine went together fine (used my lnf manifold and turbo). I heard later that the turbo sat higher, so then I was worried about the flex pipe getting stressed. Now I'm not going to worry anymore.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:57 AM
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I found this thread very useful when researching the conversion: LNF-LDK-LHU Compare Some interesting things I noticed were that his block was foam cast, and they discuss the brake booster pump quite a bit.

Last edited by exninja; 05-18-2015 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:09 AM
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After reading that I took some measurements and i'll probably run the vacuum pump. Bear in mind this is going into an HHR not a cobalt.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by emecham View Post
I found this thread very useful when researching the conversion: LNF-LDK-LHU Compare Some interesting things I noticed were that his block was foam cast, and they discuss the brake booster pump quite a bit.
this thread helped me a ton when figuring out how to do it also. jumbos'ss I believe ZZP has the "Drop in for HHR" option on their site when buying a long block from them if you hit any snags that are different from what we have documented I am more than sure they will be able to help you out. Cause I am sure it will be close but still much different.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:02 PM
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I'll bet the PCV hoses are different between the HHR and Cobalt LNF's. So really you'd need PCV hoses for the HHR, not necessarily the LNF. Your HHR hoses should connect just fine.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:03 PM
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I can't edit the initial post. Otherwise I'd add you to the list, with a note that it's an HHR.
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:47 PM
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Got my engine yesterday

Going with a new Clutchmaster Stage III. I was told this engine came with intake and exhaust manifold gaskets but this one didn't.
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Old 05-23-2015, 01:54 AM
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Mines done. I managed to rework the vacuum lines for the brake booster from the regal and got the vacuum pump hooked up with the proper check valves. Other than what I noted previously, it went in just like an lnf.
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Old 05-23-2015, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by sixgear View Post
Going with a new Clutchmaster Stage III. I was told this engine came with intake and exhaust manifold gaskets but this one didn't.
Well that sucks. Sorry to give bad info, but mine def came with gaskets.
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Old 05-23-2015, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by emecham View Post
Well that sucks. Sorry to give bad info, but mine def came with gaskets.
No problem.
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Old 05-23-2015, 04:25 PM
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Got it out and still a lot of work ahead, heater hoses and belt tensioner was the toughest part, welded a piece of 3/8 key stock to a piece of 1/8x1x10 flat stock for a tensioner tool, not much clearance in that area and tool worked great.
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Old 05-23-2015, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sixgear View Post
Got it out and still a lot of work ahead, heater hoses and belt tensioner was the toughest part, welded a piece of 3/8 key stock to a piece of 1/8x1x10 flat stock for a tensioner tool, not much clearance in that area and tool worked great.
So jelly of that lift!
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:28 PM
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Looks like I'm going to be looking forward to this swap eventually. Changed my cam actuators today and the screens had a good amount of metal on them.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by buildmeanempire View Post
Looks like I'm going to be looking forward to this swap eventually. Changed my cam actuators today and the screens had a good amount of metal on them.
I wouldn't be looking to forward to it, I am in the middle of mine and these things are the most complex machines I have seen, 972 sensors and each one has a different type connector you have to figure out how to disconnect, the engineers at GM spent more time on them than anything else. Now I have to figure out how to get the braided vent line disconnected from the valve cover. But of course I am old school, I am use to 1 hot wire, 1 ground, a fuel line, oil pressure and water temp connector and a couple of heater/radiator hoses.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:14 PM
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I'm not going to be looking forward to it in the sense of being excited. The last thing I want to do is drop over 2 grand on a new motor. I figured it wouldn't be easy but I at least hope most of it straight forward. Its It's already going to be hard enough since I don't have a lift.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:38 PM
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I will be tough without a lift. I guess this is a good way to get acquainted with the little 2.0, I just wasn't ready for so many sensors, oil lines, water lines and connectors. I have mine to the point where I need to get some gaskets and get the flywheel turned, my clutch is supposed to be in Tuesday although mine looked pretty good, thinking someone may have changed it, it was a Sachs brand, not sure if that is stock or not.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:56 PM
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Be very careful turning the flywheel. The discard spec is so minimal and you will over extend the tob if too much is taken off and you'll be pulling the trans back out and replacing the tob and flywheel.
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:09 PM
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The flywheel and clutch look to maybe have been replaced not long ago, I just plan on having it dusted.
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:13 PM
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This is where I got to today, I am assuming these things don't have a pilot shaft bushing?
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:21 PM
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Just curious but how many days do you have in to this swap?
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:29 PM
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Am I taking to long? I have 2 more trucks, another car and 2 motorcycles I can drive. I just started this Saturday. Looking for help on removing the vent line from old valve cover.
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