exninja

iTrader: (1)

Once the motor was in I got in a groove and finished pretty quick. Maybe a little too quick (see above). I think I started it the same night that I dropped the frame back on the car.

sixgear

Got most everything bolted back on the engine, torx bolts on TOB were snug but came out with no problems(T30). UPS dropped clutch and flywheel bolts off 30 minutes ago and clutch kit came with an alignment tool and also looks like a pilot shaft bushing stuck on the end of the alignment tool, I think it may be just for alignment purposes only. Off work tomorrow so I will spend the day getting it back in.

Jbernal4368

I am getting my extra money together to buy the motor... But it is getting nearer and nearer....
Once it's in the car and I'm not driving a truck that gets 14 mpg on the highway, and probably in the single digits in Austin traffic all the time... It will be time to rebuild the LNF for some serious powers....
Can't have enough torques or horsepowers!

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

I replaced those stupid torx bolts with hex bolts when I took my TOB out, all 3 stripped taking them out so I had to tack weld an old allen wrench to them then twist them out with a wrench. Stupid torx were so soft they basically melted in the torx head.

moar horsetourques!!!!!! Nnnaaaaaoooowwwww

sixgear

I think I had read about your problems with these bolts earlier and that caused me to be extra careful, I will probably reuse mine. Thanks for the heads up though.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

You're one of the lucky few that didn't have problems. I also had to weld a bolt to it to get them out. PITA.

crashher0

iTrader: (2)

You might want to just replace them while your at it, its like 75cents at any home improvement store and it may save you tons of headache if you strip them putting them back in or you loose your luck and pop a few TOB like so many people do (multiple times) and have to take them out again.

sixgear

I got it running a few hours ago, it was a thrash but it went pretty good, haven't driven it yet. I let it run a couple of times until the temp reached 225, hoping its just air in the system, I left the cap off while doing so. When I was torqueing the engine I needed a way to keep the flywheel from turning so I found a piece of metal with a couple of holes in it and used the starter bolt hole and one of the dowel pins in the flywheel. Also clutch came with a pilot bearing which I assumed was for alignment purposes only, called ZZP which I have never been able to immediately talk to someone, usually they return the call a day or two later which I think is poor business, I needed help and an answer within a few minutes and you would think after buying an engine and clutch the might step things up a bit.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

I saw your other thread first so I replied about the temps in that one. I didn't notice any temps getting that hot in mine on the first run. I also didn't idle it at first. Within a minute of starting it I took it out and did some high rev runs in first gear (detailed on the zzp site). This is supposed to seat the rings. The necessity is debated but it can't hurt so I did it.

My clutch didn't come with anything like that so as you've figured out you're fine.

If you're like me you'll find a few things that you missed. Hopefully nothing major

That metal piece was clever. I used a breaker bar on the crack pulley bolt on the other side of the engine.

sixgear

I may have my coolant problem fixed, I removed the return line from coolant tank and plugged fitting on tank, then I pressurized my system and forced coolant and I guess air through the return line into a bowl, so far temp has only gotten to 194. BUT, 2 codes, P0089, and P0236, I have been smelling fuel and it looks like its leaking under intake manifold, probably an injector, that would probably take care of the P0089 but also ZERO boost, P236 says Sensor A circuit Range, I will have to do some research on that one.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Did you replace the injector seals? A fuel smell and low pressure would lead me to think the rear seal on an injector is bad.

sixgear

My injectors stuck in the head when I removed the fuel rail. I noticed they had a Teflon looking seal on them and also a green o-ring in the fuel rail, do I need to replace both? Is there a tool needed to replace the Teflon one's. From what I have read un-soldered map sensors can cause the P0236 code and limp mode which I guess I have, car ran like it had 41.8 HP.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

If you get the kit of seals you get all of them. Mine stuck in the head too. I figured it was a good idea to get those replaced while out. I made a thread showing how to do it here: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-install-injector-seals-lnf-315067/. There is a tool which I have available to borrow: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-10-ss-turbocharged-general-discussion-152/injector-seal-tool-loan-program-314619/. Or you could find one to buy.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Not sure which map sensors you have but it also turns out I have some stock sensors if you need.

sixgear

I have the Bosch 3 Bar sensors, I read that oil on the sensors can throw the code I got, when I had the intake off it was oily inside so I sprayed some carb cleaner in there and possibly blew some oil on the sensor. My old 92 Silverado had a blown brake line so I spent most of the day yesterday replacing that and cleaning my shop from the engine swap in the SS, I hate having more than one vehicle down at a time, breaks my concentration. I will get parts ordered for my car and clean and solder my MAF's.

sixgear

Thanks for the "How To", I just ordered seals from CED, now to find a tool.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

Add me to the list of completed an LDK swap. Did mine last week. Other than the LNF dipstick not bolting up when used in an LDK oil pan everything else was a straight swap, I used the LNF exhaust manifold and turbo.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately I can't edit the original post.

Did ZZP not send you a new dipstick?

I think ZZP needs to put a note on their website that the LDK manifold/turbo sit ~1in higher than the LNF.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

ZZP DID send me a new LDK dipstick, everything needed for the swap was included. I didn't order a turbo with it so they just sent me the motor and dipstick. Used the original exhaust manifold and everything was peachy.

One thing that would have been nice to know is the LDK pan is a 6qt pan so make sure to add that much oil.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

well later this year or early next year I will be putting in a built ldk with either s259 kit or bigger zfr. my car is sitting engineless now. I'm doing rust proofing and doing miner mods and fixes to things on it and interior while I wait. slowly buying parts, wanna wait for black Friday to see if I can get the turbo kit or turbo for a good deal .

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

Anybody running an oil pressure sensor with the LDK? The normal locations on the Ecotec 2.x motors aren't there.

FLASH1970

does anyone make a block off plate for the pump on the exhaust manifold?

exninja

iTrader: (1)

You can call ZZP and ask if they'll sell you one.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

ZZP has and will sell to you.

Is there a better set of camshaft tables we should be running than the stock LDK ones?

FLASH1970

what ive found so far on my lhu swap is that the throttle body has a different connector so an LNF fly by wire throttle body needs to be used. also, the intake manifold map sensor has the bolt hole a millimeter or two closer to the map sensor hole so im going to have to modify my 3 bar map sensor bolt hole to use it. also, the line for the coolant overflow doesnt have a spot to mount on the LHU. the LHU has a typical banjo bolt and a line going to the turbo, but no nipple on top of the bolt for the overflow line. so, the LNF banjo bolt needs to be used to retain the overflow line. also on that line, it's all rubber. the LNF has a section of rubber line, to a section of metal line, and then back to rubber. and the plastic push in harness about 10" away from o2 sensor on the harness doesnt have a spot to push into due to the brake pump on the exhaust cam of the LHU. the block and valve cover on the LHU are a bit different from the LNF because of that pump. there's also a couple push in connections to help keep the harness in place on the coil packs that arent there on the LHU. the LHU has a couple pegs sticking out of the valve cover in those spots instead. also the HPFP lines are a bit different. the LNF has the small round puck on the intake manifold and the LHU does not.