Sorry for double posting, still learning my way around the forums.

I'm looking at a 09 Cobalt SS through a friend; it's got 26k, red, manual, looks like a nice car, still under drivetrain warranty. It looks like a nice daily.

I looked up some common problems in search: sunroof trim, e-brake set too tight / grinding rotors, squeaky over bumps, body/front-bumper alignment issues. Any other common issues I should know about or things to check for? I'm going to have a dealer do a visual inspection too.

Is a Cobalt SS a decent daily driver? Or annoying to drive? I'm used to daily driving a c6z so I assume by comparison it's more timid and less rigid? Never had a turbo car before, or a 4 cyl, but I have had an s/c'ed (and modded) GTP. How's the turbo lag?

If I buy it, I'll post'up some pictures.

cheers

 

There really isn't any lag with the KO4. The compressor side is about the size of a large apple, so it doesn't take long to spool. It runs out of breath at 5500 RPM, though. In my opinion, the 'balt SS is a great daily driver either stock or with GMS1. If you don't want to worry about your drivetrain warranty, you can spend about $1000 for a tune, downpipe, and intercooler and be happy for years. It handles great, it gets pretty good gas mileage on the highway, and it's just plain fun to drive. The gas pedal delay is a little annoying, but you get used to it. The sunroof rattles on bumps, the rear calipers are trash, the power steering motor needs to be replaced, and your key can get stuck in the ignition, but those are annoyances more than real problems. The only REAL problem with the early '09 or late '08 models (I forget which) is the cracking block issue. If you seach for "porous block" you'll find more info. Just stay around 21-22 psi and drive it forever.

 

Yes the interior rattles, yes the Brembo's like to squeal a lot, yes it goes through a set of front tires every 10k miles , but it really puts a smile on your face to see the look of shame on somebodies face after you stick it to 'em with a COBALT.

As far as genuine problems SSlobalt hit most of the highlights, the porous block issue was narrowed down to a specific range of build dates although I forget exactly what it is. Something like June 2008 - February 2009 and it affected both 08 and 09 model years

Edit: Here's the "OFFICIAL Porous Block Thread"
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...thread-265567/

 

Didn't see it mentioned above. If it was, sorry for repeating it.

If you are looking at an '09 SS check the build plate for G85. Open the trunk, lift the carpet and look at the metal plate to your left (in front of the driver's side tail light). If there is no G85 then the car does not have LSD. Even though all of the SS/TCs should have come with a LSD, some did not.

Good luck.

 

If you get a vin I can pull the build sheet and any warranty history it might have ...... LSD is pretty important in these cars if you plan on being able to put any power down while turning. The porous block or cracked block issue is pretty rare imo. The power steering issue was a recall and should already be done.

I havent had any real issues with the rear calipers .... they have been fine since the dealer replaced the pads and rotors at 8K ....no trouble for the last 40K or so...just make sure the pins and slides are lubed up if you get it . We have a c6 with a paxton blower in the family ( 540 whp) after I drive that for a few days ...I have a real rough time getting back in my cobalt lol....so expect some depression hehe

 

I have 70k miles and here is what I have perosnally observed


I have no interior rattles since i started regularly cleaning the sunroof seal and its contact patch common to the roof. The rear deck needed a piece of double sided tape to be silenced during dead cold idle but that was it for me and interior noise.

rear brake caliper slides should be cleaned and greased every 6 months. Ebrakes require contant adjustment in some cases because of the nylon threaded adjustment nut but I had to do my first adjustment today and I put some locktite in front of the nut and am pretty sure it will be a non issue until I replace the rear calipers and need to adjust the handle back. The OEM rear pads went quick, I think for everyone, and I replaced them at 30k miles. At 70k I am still on the factory front pads, rotors and the rear replacements Hawk HPS fwiw are at 90% of installed thickness.

non revised shift linkages are suspect, replace with the updated GM part or aftermarket. I bought what had to be one of the last delivered cobalts in April of 2010 new. I watched them unload it (I was testing out another, though)

Paint at the bottom of the doors tends to rub off if you don't keep up on keeping the seal clean. I primered and painted with some duplicolor about 6 months after I got the car and it hasn't been a problem since.

GM replaced the strut mount on my passenger side to cure a squeak on bumps I would experience at temperatures below 45 degrees or so. It took me for ever to notice that it only happened as a sure thing on the bumps that caused it (not even half of the bumps I would hit) at 40 or below because of Seattle's temperance with weather. I am not sure if there is another issue but since that strut mount was replaced I have only heard valving action in dampeners and it is to my liking.

I heavily test drove (at least 50 miles each) the following 2010 model cars before buying the cobalt: VW GTI, Mazda MS3, Honda Civic Si

I drove about 20 miles per car in: Subaru WRX & STI each, Mitsubishi Evo X

The GTI was too soft in the corners but did great with imperfect roads and rough roads, a smidge cushier than the Cobalt SS TC. It felt great to drive and seemed much quicker than it is/was. VW's rep in its enthusiast's forums and the price for what you got are what assed it out of contention Felt heavier.

The Mazdaspeed3 Felt significantly heavier to me in driving, the heaviest feel of the FWDs. It punished your body on anything but good or better roads and it was downright scary in corners at moderate speed where an expansion joint, transition to a bridge, or ANY imperfection in the road was experienced. A little slower to spool up than the Cobalt, a little quicker to fade at high rpms. A solid choice if you plan on driving on silk ribbon roads only but realistically no DD in my eyes.

LoL Civic Si save for the transmission whose action was the best of all the cars

AWDs rep for fuel economy, price, and high frequency drivetrain noise common to both the SUbies and the EVO pretty much did them in for me.

THe cobalt was the lightest, most comfortable in daily driving, most composed and predicable when pushed to the limit, had the least understeer of all cars tested (inb4 AWD turn and go, I am talking strictly about neutral at high speed in corner behavior and even under power beat everything save for the AWDs bycomfortable, noticeable margin in speed held and understeer experienced) I have surprised many a person with the ss/tc with just how thoroughly well rounded it is (braking, handling, acceleration, etc) because, since its my daily, I normally drive it mellow. Once some one hears it spool at 1750 rpm because I know boost will keep the speed and I am too lazy to downshift it goes like this:

"what's that noise?"/"This thing is boosted?",
If in a good area I give them 60 seconds of hell as a passenger but normal spirited running for me
"I had no idea"


It is the best daily driver produced lifetime MPG is 30.5 for me (110 miles a dayand about 70 of that is highway) SS (Chevrolet Cobalt) | Fuelly. I have tracked a little less than half of the mileage (lazy) but you'll get the picture. Cobalt was also quieter than all but the GTI on the road, too. I also suggest Seafoaming the intake once in a while but since that is a hot topic in and of itself I will leave that there. I NLS 2-3 twice daily merging on to the highway to and from work. Only exception is if there is snow on the ground.

 

I think LSD is nice but if you aren't going to track it seriously its certainly not as nice as "pretty important"... at least in completely stock form.

 

Thanks for all the posts guys. The car is pretty clean, drives perfectly best as I can tell. It has a lot of good, usable power down low and screams on the highway. Had a dealer do a visual inspection and everything checks out. It's definitely a lot easier to drive in day to day than the Z, and I like the clutch and tranny a lot more. The Z's tranny is so heavy duty it's punishing. In the ss, I don't feel any need to rev match in normal traffic when downshifting or slowing. Clutch is pretty much on or off. The Z really makes you work to take off smoothly.

The Bluetooth is nice for calls, and also the USB port hooks into my iPhone. The trunk is a little annoying because it doesn't pop open, you have to use some force to open or close; it's very stiff. The spoiler gives the car a very stable feel on the highway. You can really notice its effect. The torque steer is only bad coming out of turns. The NLS is nice, and seems necessary; if I don't use it, the car kind of stalls out under acceleration when I'm getting on it--maybe it's dumping boost if I'm not using NLS. I haven't tried the launch control yet.

Can these cars cut sub 1.9 or 2.0 60' with the LC and LSD? Best I could ever do with the gtp on its peg leg diff was 2.0, but it ran 13.8's even with that. This car seems like it would do low low 14's, maybe high 13's.

Don't really have many complaints. The acceleration is a little lurchy down low in stop and go, and it hits red line quick. I guess I'm used to the Z's 7000rpm redline.

Looks like I'm buying it. Should be a great dd.

Here are some pics I took:
09 cobalt ss turbo stage 1 - a set on Flickr

 

trunk plate says car has G85 by the way.

 

Dear lord man, that thing is CLEAN and sparkling.

Have fun with it. It's a good daily driver.

 

Those pics are great. Car looks really clean.

Sub 2.0 60's are hard. The stock launch control isn't that good. It revs too high. Check out the drag racing section on here and you'll get an idea of what they'll run. If you're an experienced driver you should be able to get low 14s the way it sits now. Of course a lot depends on elevation, temps, etc. You know.

 

What does LCD/g85 mean I'm interested in getting a TC/SS cobalt. I have a 92 civic cx and a 03zo6 and need a upgraded dd

 

G85 is the build code for the limited slip differential. It helps put the power down better than the standard open differential when the wheels are turning at different speeds such as turning.

http://www.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

 

Lmao. Wow talk about LSD was not connecting. Ok yes I know what a limited slip diff is and does

 

Wrong lsd? Lol

 

My last car was an 03 z06, black on black. I still prefer it even over the c6z.

Pics of your z?

 

Thanks, I'm getting a little better with the camera. I took those snaps with a EOS 50D DSLR and I enhanced each one on my iPad 2s. It's amazing what you can do on an iPad now. It even let me remove the license plate, but the brush size was locked so I couldn't go smaller than a finger's width.