newb T/C question
#51
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I had a 2.2 5 speed as well, and purchesed my SS/TC without test driving. As soon as i went to pick it up me and salesman went to gas station to get gas, he had me drive it. I didnt stall at 1st but was definitly jerkin around liek drivers ed in 1st gear. LMAO. i was like "what...the...****..is..going...on" (picture me and passanger going back and forth in the seat) hahaha. He said the same thing happened to him when he tried to pull it around. Since then iv had no problems. The 2.2 is super easy to learn to drive stick on. The feather point is like directly in the center. So you can lift your foot about 6 inches off the floor b4 the clutch starts to engage. The TC seems to engage and disengage like floor level. It takes some time to get used to but this is a sports car, not a luxury car. Its meant to go fast and handle like a champ. And after about 30 minutes, youll have the clutch down like ur 2.2. I still find myself under or over revving taking off out of 1st though. Just takes practice and feel
#52
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yes because you know me. moron. i have driven over 35 different manual cars. no buck or jerking for me.... wait a second i now know why, i know how to drive. idiot
#53
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Oh and as for the "supplement" or as I refer to it as an owners manual, it doesnt really say anythign about the no-lift-shift feature. I was suprised. I think i remember it saying to refer to some GM website or something? anyways just read up in the forums hear. Ull learn more from members then any "supplement".
#54
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I don't use the no-lift because I don't race in the street nor have I been to the drag strip. I initially, like everyone else I bet, tried it out after a few miles were on the car (in comp mode, don't worry!) & must admit that once you get the hang of it it does shift like crazy. But the car is a helluva lot of fun w/o the no lift shifting anyways.
But do you feel 100% confident that this is not damageable in the long term ?
And I must admit that I wouldn't buy the car the kid took out; but hey, the clutch does require a bit of getting used to so let's give him a break.
#55
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The issue here isn't knowing how to drive stick or not, it's that a kid was allowed by his employer to drive a car off the lot and potentially damage it.
When I bought my TC I made it damn clear NO ONE except the mechanic PDI'ing the car was to drive it, and had the contract written out so that if the car had more than 7mi on it I could walk on the deal. A new car needs to be broken in gently, not taken out for joy rides by people who won't have to deal with problems down the line.
When I bought my TC I made it damn clear NO ONE except the mechanic PDI'ing the car was to drive it, and had the contract written out so that if the car had more than 7mi on it I could walk on the deal. A new car needs to be broken in gently, not taken out for joy rides by people who won't have to deal with problems down the line.
#56
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I had a 2.2 5 speed as well, and purchesed my SS/TC without test driving. As soon as i went to pick it up me and salesman went to gas station to get gas, he had me drive it. I didnt stall at 1st but was definitly jerkin around liek drivers ed in 1st gear. LMAO. i was like "what...the...****..is..going...on" (picture me and passanger going back and forth in the seat) hahaha. He said the same thing happened to him when he tried to pull it around. Since then iv had no problems. The 2.2 is super easy to learn to drive stick on. The feather point is like directly in the center. So you can lift your foot about 6 inches off the floor b4 the clutch starts to engage. The TC seems to engage and disengage like floor level. It takes some time to get used to but this is a sports car, not a luxury car. Its meant to go fast and handle like a champ. And after about 30 minutes, youll have the clutch down like ur 2.2. I still find myself under or over revving taking off out of 1st though. Just takes practice and feel
SEE.....thank you for being honest and reliable. you are someone who obviously isint a wannabe lil punk trying to act hard on the internet like someone V V V V
yeah thats what I found , also to all the people who say I shouldnt have been able to drive it and that you'd never buy a car from a dealer that let some KID drive it , WELL FIRST OFF . I am not a kid , i am 18 , some people think thats a kid and thats fine and dandy MOST (90%) OF 18 year olds are considered kids , I work 12 hour days 6 days a week , have a son and a am paying for a house and a new car with just me and my wife , no help from mommy or daddy financially (unless you count them co-signing on the house loan, I make all the payments) and maybe I cant drive as well as some of you , thats cool im a dad not a pro race driver. i love cars and they are my toys I love to go fast just as much as the next guy. but why is it like comparing dicks when we talk about driving a stick ...... grow up.
you proved my point. not one point in my post did I say you couldnt drive......butthurt much? i tink so. all I said was that all cars are different and it takes getting used to and you got all defensive. why cares what you have had or what you can drive , we arent all the super cool guy you seem to be , we all cant just sit on the internet all day and brag about how many cars we've had and can drive better than some other guy. god damn you people are older than me and I swear you are ten years behind still.
The issue here isn't knowing how to drive stick or not, it's that a kid was allowed by his employer to drive a car off the lot and potentially damage it.
When I bought my TC I made it damn clear NO ONE except the mechanic PDI'ing the car was to drive it, and had the contract written out so that if the car had more than 7mi on it I could walk on the deal. A new car needs to be broken in gently, not taken out for joy rides by people who won't have to deal with problems down the line.
When I bought my TC I made it damn clear NO ONE except the mechanic PDI'ing the car was to drive it, and had the contract written out so that if the car had more than 7mi on it I could walk on the deal. A new car needs to be broken in gently, not taken out for joy rides by people who won't have to deal with problems down the line.
Last edited by no_mo_tires; 11-13-2008 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#57
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i see your point in this but at the break in point its okay as long as the car is not pushed or over 5k on the RPMS , I kept it under 4k and only let the tires loose once , and it was a decent launch at that , if this car couldnt handle on pull like that they wouldnt sell it and if it couldnt handle a little jerking in a 1-2 shift then they wouldnt warranty the ****. you guys act like I tried to throw it in reverse on the highway .... all I said was it was hard to drive , meaning the clutch has a weird engage point and I misshifted a few times , I didnt "ruin" or "thrash" this car. you people who say that must not know anyhting about these cars at all.
It's about standards. Allowing someone like you to drive brand new cars that will be sold to prospective buyers is far below the standard that should be in place for merchandise in the price range cars are.
#58
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Aned even if something ***** up on these cars there backed with 100,000 mile powertrain warrenty, which is what would **** up from beating on it. Just today I tried to do a no-lift-shift, and I guess i must not have had the gas floored all the way, I thought it was but maybe a bump conveniently hit at the time of shift casue when I threw it into 2nd and let off the clutch my car went "THUMP" like it went into 2nd really hard and put alot of strain on tranny. Wont be trying that again for awhile. But I was doing something the car was built for, so if it ***** up, I go "chevy, I had the car in competitive mode, you know the button u installed on the dash, and I tried no-lift-shifting, ya know the feature you put on that makes this car special, and it fucked up. So fix it." Its not like I was drifing. And By the way did u ever try to put ur car into 1st while driving, it doesnt work. I had my foot all the way down on clutch and was coasting and just like practicing shifting quick to get used to NO-lift shift. And while rolling over like 30 u cant even put the car in 1st while clutch is disengaged. Forget about reverse, that **** would be impossible.
Oh and just my 2 cents, I dont think dealers should let poeple test drive cars. They should get in like dealer cars, that they put in showrooms or whatever. And those should be the test drive cars. Just becasue they do let u do whatever u want in a new car. And I wouldnt want some1 beating on my car when it has no miles on it and then going ok thanks and handing the keys back and 2 days later I buy the car. It really isnt right since if u go to that person and say "hey can i drive ur car real quick" they will quickly say "**** no." Then when the car starts to get old or whatever, they can just sell it to enteprise rent a car or something. That would be the smart thing to do.
#59
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Whether you in particular damaged the vehicle or not isn't the point, it's that you should NEVER have been allowed to drive the thing in the first place. Just because you didn't hurt it doesn't mean some moron at another dealership won't take the same little joyride and, for example, do a 5-2 downshift or something retarded...
It's about standards. Allowing someone like you to drive brand new cars that will be sold to prospective buyers is far below the standard that should be in place for merchandise in the price range cars are.
It's about standards. Allowing someone like you to drive brand new cars that will be sold to prospective buyers is far below the standard that should be in place for merchandise in the price range cars are.
#62
I only had a little jerking trouble in 1st gear for a little while. I came from an RSX-S. The two things I think did it was number one the clutch. The clutch in the RSX had very very short travel. I don't think the TC is bad, but it is longer than what I had gotten used to.
The other is just the torque.
Just keep at it and it'll come naturally after a bit.
The no-lift you just need to time it right so that you are really close to redline before you do it and when you do it... do it FAST.
The other is just the torque.
Just keep at it and it'll come naturally after a bit.
The no-lift you just need to time it right so that you are really close to redline before you do it and when you do it... do it FAST.
#63
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Yup, looked it up & couldn't find it either... So you guys are right, it's comp mode or nothing.
I don't use the no-lift because I don't race in the street nor have I been to the drag strip. I initially, like everyone else I bet, tried it out after a few miles were on the car (in comp mode, don't worry!) & must admit that once you get the hang of it it does shift like crazy. But the car is a helluva lot of fun w/o the no lift shifting anyways.
But do you feel 100% confident that this is not damageable in the long term ?
And I must admit that I wouldn't buy the car the kid took out; but hey, the clutch does require a bit of getting used to so let's give him a break.
I don't use the no-lift because I don't race in the street nor have I been to the drag strip. I initially, like everyone else I bet, tried it out after a few miles were on the car (in comp mode, don't worry!) & must admit that once you get the hang of it it does shift like crazy. But the car is a helluva lot of fun w/o the no lift shifting anyways.
But do you feel 100% confident that this is not damageable in the long term ?
And I must admit that I wouldn't buy the car the kid took out; but hey, the clutch does require a bit of getting used to so let's give him a break.
Sorry, you were right the first time. See page 2-30 of your manual, and it specifically states that "No-Lift Upshifting is enabled in all Electronic Stability Control modes/ Use this feature only when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. Correct shifting allows the engine to maintain boost pressure during shifts, while also keeping the engine from over-revving."
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Sorry, you were right the first time. See page 2-30 of your manual, and it specifically states that "No-Lift Upshifting is enabled in all Electronic Stability Control modes/ Use this feature only when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. Correct shifting allows the engine to maintain boost pressure during shifts, while also keeping the engine from over-revving."
read the manual guys!
#66
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Sorry, you were right the first time. See page 2-30 of your manual, and it specifically states that "No-Lift Upshifting is enabled in all Electronic Stability Control modes/ Use this feature only when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. Correct shifting allows the engine to maintain boost pressure during shifts, while also keeping the engine from over-revving."
#68
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No lift shift can be used in ALL MODES
end of discussion, PERSONALLY, I use it in competition mode, simply because the only time I use it: I'm racing...
traction control sucks, don't need that either
as far as people say it will "bounce off the rev limiter" when in Normal Mode, no it won't........it will because you SUCK AT DRIVING, but when done CORRECTLY it will work like a charm in any mode, I HAVE done it in all modes, just to see if it could be done... the no lift shift is about speed, but MORE SO, its about being SMOOTH... you can shift as fast as you want, if you try to bang the gear, you're not going to get it right
end of discussion, PERSONALLY, I use it in competition mode, simply because the only time I use it: I'm racing...
traction control sucks, don't need that either
as far as people say it will "bounce off the rev limiter" when in Normal Mode, no it won't........it will because you SUCK AT DRIVING, but when done CORRECTLY it will work like a charm in any mode, I HAVE done it in all modes, just to see if it could be done... the no lift shift is about speed, but MORE SO, its about being SMOOTH... you can shift as fast as you want, if you try to bang the gear, you're not going to get it right
#70
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When I do a NLShift 1st to 2nd with traction control off, both tires break loose for about 20 feet (leaving a nice cool patch!). When I do it in Comp mode, I get some tire spin, but not as much, and it doesn't "bog down". When I do it with Traction control on, it definately robs the power. So I believe the way to do it with the best result is in comp mode, even though it is ok to do it in any mode.
#72
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(facepalm)
next time say something relavant and that makes sense , because if you were refferring to me .... i never "talked outta my ass" nor did I say I was a pro driver.....
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