Replacing a/c compressor, need help!
Replacing a/c compressor, need help!
All,
As you may have read from my previous posts, freakin mechanic put a crack in my ac compressor when engine was rebuilt and he will not replace.
I'm gonna file a small claims lawsuit, but in the meantime have to replace my compressor. I ordered the compressor, but from what I understand it is more than bolting it in....
Do I clean out the system from debris, etc. prior to installation?
What oil does the compressor take?
What o rings do I need? Please supply part #
Do I need to replace the drier? If so, where it is located? Please suply part #
Thanks!
As you may have read from my previous posts, freakin mechanic put a crack in my ac compressor when engine was rebuilt and he will not replace.
I'm gonna file a small claims lawsuit, but in the meantime have to replace my compressor. I ordered the compressor, but from what I understand it is more than bolting it in....
Do I clean out the system from debris, etc. prior to installation?
What oil does the compressor take?
What o rings do I need? Please supply part #
Do I need to replace the drier? If so, where it is located? Please suply part #
Thanks!
u need to get it done at an ac place. That said, installing the compressor is straightforward.The rest requires the ac experts with a machine; the drier is in the ac rad. the oil is put in when the ac place does the work purging it and recharging it.
you need to put some oil into the compressor itself before installation then the a/c shop puts rest in with refrigerant, check with a shop first to see what type/ amount. sometimes for warranty on compressor they require you to replace dryer and possibly other parts as well check that info too if applicable
you need to put some oil into the compressor itself before installation then the a/c shop puts rest in with refrigerant, check with a shop first to see what type/ amount. sometimes for warranty on compressor they require you to replace dryer and possibly other parts as well check that info too if applicable
A/C work is really tricky, man. You put too much oil in, you don't cool well. You don't put enough in, the compressor seizes. It doesn't sound like you have the proper tools to do this job, so I would do like Powell says and take it to an A/C expert. I don't know if you've looked at our A/C system, but the components are really hard to get to.
That being said, if you feel like tackling it:
1) You're already vented to atmosphere, so you have moisture in your A/C system. That means you need to purge it. You also need to purge out the old leftover oil so you don't have too much in the system. I don't think you're actually going to do this part the correct way due to the difficulty of it, so you can do a backyard, forward-flush through the discharge and suction hose fittings, where the connect to the compressor.
2) Go rent a flush gun and some R-134A system flush.
3) Also rent a vacuum pump.
4) Also rent a R134a manifold/gauge set and a fuel filter fitting removal tool kit.
5) Purchase an A/C o-ring set for your car, the recommended kind and amount of PAG oil, and orifice tube, and two cans of R134a with the UV dye in it (in case you end up with a leak).
6) Remove old compressor and pour the oil out of it into a container and measure how much came out. Take that minus what is recommended to use in the system by the manufacturer and you get a good idea how much is left in the system.
7) You have a suction-side and a discharge side on the compressor and a line for each. You can use the flush gun to push some flush through the discharge side and it will come out of the suction side port. Use a lot of flush. You can't flush too much. This will contaminate the dryer, but you have to replace that anyway.
8) Blow DRY shop air through the system for a while after you push all the flush solvent out.
9) Remove the dryer.
10) Pour the recommended amount of the right kind of PAG oil in the compressor, into the discharge port, and turn the compressor clutch over about 10 times. Do this while holding the compressor with the clutch pointed at the ground.
11) Install new dryer. Use new o-rings.
12) Find orifice tube and remove it using those specialty fuel-filter fitting tools. Dip the new orifice tube in the PAG oil install it where the old one went, IN THE SAME DIRECTION THE OLD ONE WENT.
13) Install compressor. Use new o-rings.
14) Hook up your manifold/gauge set to the system and hook up the vac pump to the service port. Kick on the vac pump and open up the high and low side valves on the manifold. Pump it down for 30 minutes to an hour.
15) After pump down, shut off the high and low side valves at the manifold. Turn off the vac pump. Wait for 30 minutes and see if the gauges show a loss of vac, which will mean a leak. Hopefully you won't have one.
16) Hook up a bottle of freon to the service port, turn on the car, turn on the A/C, open the low side valve until the compressor kicks on, then open the valve for the high side. Let it suck that can dry, close high and low side valves, hook up another can, open the low and high side valves and let it suck that can dry. ( This is if it requires 24 oz of freon. I don't know how much it requires. You'll have to look that up.)
17) Shut low and high side valves, removed manifold/gauge set, and hope that your air is as cold as it used to be.
I just wrote this down so you would get an idea of how much work is involved. You can see why we recommend professionals with the correct tools. The are "Mobile A/C" guys in my area that guarantee their work and don't charge as much as a shop. Google it and see if they have them in your area. You're in AZ, so I can almost guarantee they do.
That being said, if you feel like tackling it:
1) You're already vented to atmosphere, so you have moisture in your A/C system. That means you need to purge it. You also need to purge out the old leftover oil so you don't have too much in the system. I don't think you're actually going to do this part the correct way due to the difficulty of it, so you can do a backyard, forward-flush through the discharge and suction hose fittings, where the connect to the compressor.
2) Go rent a flush gun and some R-134A system flush.
3) Also rent a vacuum pump.
4) Also rent a R134a manifold/gauge set and a fuel filter fitting removal tool kit.
5) Purchase an A/C o-ring set for your car, the recommended kind and amount of PAG oil, and orifice tube, and two cans of R134a with the UV dye in it (in case you end up with a leak).
6) Remove old compressor and pour the oil out of it into a container and measure how much came out. Take that minus what is recommended to use in the system by the manufacturer and you get a good idea how much is left in the system.
7) You have a suction-side and a discharge side on the compressor and a line for each. You can use the flush gun to push some flush through the discharge side and it will come out of the suction side port. Use a lot of flush. You can't flush too much. This will contaminate the dryer, but you have to replace that anyway.
8) Blow DRY shop air through the system for a while after you push all the flush solvent out.
9) Remove the dryer.
10) Pour the recommended amount of the right kind of PAG oil in the compressor, into the discharge port, and turn the compressor clutch over about 10 times. Do this while holding the compressor with the clutch pointed at the ground.
11) Install new dryer. Use new o-rings.
12) Find orifice tube and remove it using those specialty fuel-filter fitting tools. Dip the new orifice tube in the PAG oil install it where the old one went, IN THE SAME DIRECTION THE OLD ONE WENT.
13) Install compressor. Use new o-rings.
14) Hook up your manifold/gauge set to the system and hook up the vac pump to the service port. Kick on the vac pump and open up the high and low side valves on the manifold. Pump it down for 30 minutes to an hour.
15) After pump down, shut off the high and low side valves at the manifold. Turn off the vac pump. Wait for 30 minutes and see if the gauges show a loss of vac, which will mean a leak. Hopefully you won't have one.
16) Hook up a bottle of freon to the service port, turn on the car, turn on the A/C, open the low side valve until the compressor kicks on, then open the valve for the high side. Let it suck that can dry, close high and low side valves, hook up another can, open the low and high side valves and let it suck that can dry. ( This is if it requires 24 oz of freon. I don't know how much it requires. You'll have to look that up.)
17) Shut low and high side valves, removed manifold/gauge set, and hope that your air is as cold as it used to be.
I just wrote this down so you would get an idea of how much work is involved. You can see why we recommend professionals with the correct tools. The are "Mobile A/C" guys in my area that guarantee their work and don't charge as much as a shop. Google it and see if they have them in your area. You're in AZ, so I can almost guarantee they do.
It's imperative to evacuate the system from any moisture as it causes the oil to oxidize over time and create acid which eats at system. I'm thinking of pulling vacuum with beater car engine vacuum.
Equally as important to get the right amount of PAG oil in the system to lubricate compressor. The refrigerant and oil mixes only have ~1 oz of oil that is most likely ester based which is not recommended.
When replacing your AC Compressor, you must replace the drier and orifice tube to maintain any kind of warranty on the compressor. Plus it will work better. Have a professional do it that actually has a machine that can evacuate/recharge the system of freon so you don't have any moisture. Don't try and skip steps as your compressor will probably not last you very long or will end up not working as well. Expect to spend some money. Also, if you can buy a new compressor as opposed to a remanufactured. I run a shop and at times find that remanufactured compressors just don't work as well as new ones. Just my two cents.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



