Stock Brakes vs Hawk
Senior Member
Joined: 12-19-05
Posts: 9,704
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From: Raleigh, NC
Dude... ::facepalm::
And both of those instances were caused by you doing things that you shouldn't have. And secondly you could have been feet away from hitting those cars not inches with the better stock pad... but talking to people on this forum is like conversing with a glass of water sure it's fun.... but doesn't get you anywhere.
And both of those instances were caused by you doing things that you shouldn't have. And secondly you could have been feet away from hitting those cars not inches with the better stock pad... but talking to people on this forum is like conversing with a glass of water sure it's fun.... but doesn't get you anywhere.
New Member
Joined: 03-20-10
Posts: 43
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From: Cincinnati OH
1. i was about to get off the wrong exit when i realized i decided to cut back over onto the 2 lane highway but there was a car. there was the v right in front of me, i was going about 80 i nailed the brakes i dont even think abs kicked in but i made it.
2. i was doing about 90 in the right lane and my short left turning lane was coming up. i was on the other side of a tractor trailer. sped up to about 120 got in front of the truck and over, didnt see the two cars at the red light. got on the brakes but i didnt want to slide and came literally 6 inches front rear ending this mini van hard
those are just two instances where i think hps saved my life. i took the stockers off and they were pretty much brand new. still have them. even when my hawks run out i wouldnt even put the stocks back on and im a pretty thrifty guy. i dont usually like to talk up companies but you definatly get what you pay for the hawk hps's are great
so are twm short shifters btw
2. i was doing about 90 in the right lane and my short left turning lane was coming up. i was on the other side of a tractor trailer. sped up to about 120 got in front of the truck and over, didnt see the two cars at the red light. got on the brakes but i didnt want to slide and came literally 6 inches front rear ending this mini van hard
those are just two instances where i think hps saved my life. i took the stockers off and they were pretty much brand new. still have them. even when my hawks run out i wouldnt even put the stocks back on and im a pretty thrifty guy. i dont usually like to talk up companies but you definatly get what you pay for the hawk hps's are great
so are twm short shifters btw
Senior Member
Joined: 12-19-05
Posts: 9,704
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From: Raleigh, NC
Uhm, yes Brembos on a Cobalt.
And in your case Hawk are better than the LSJ stock pads... so you sir are excused from the stupidity that is this thread, well except for your bad driving habbits.
And in your case Hawk are better than the LSJ stock pads... so you sir are excused from the stupidity that is this thread, well except for your bad driving habbits.
Senior Member
Joined: 07-18-08
Posts: 1,346
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From: Maple Syrup Land
Was just about to say ..
You have no idea what you are talking about...
I've got the R1 Concepts drilled and slotted with the Hawk HPS and they do just fine in daily driving ..
Won't even talk about drilled and slotted rotors, let's just say SURFACE AREA OWNS ALL
The peddle is more stiff and the pads aren't as "squishy" as the stocks ..
Peddle is more stiff? No idea how that works, the only thing that could make the pedal more stiff is if you had a air in the lines, and bleed your system.. or If you put on ss lines "would help"... or your brakes had worn down enough that you had to give more pedal
I would say to anyone looking at brakes if your front stock pads are good stick with them and just change the rotors all the way around and the rear pads , make sure the slide pins are lubed with the right grease.
Nothing is wrong with the rear brake pad, once the pins are lubed they are fine
Hawks are more predictable under different conditions and don't really have a variation. They stay consistent.
For everyday driving and panic stopping yes, everything else no
I've had my HPS pads for 15k with R1 Drilled/slotted rotors .
Pros-
Don't heat up like the stocks under high speeds and continue to deliver stopping power without gumming up, Lower overall brake noise and squeal . Lowers dusting of rims by about 75% .
I'm assuming you mean braking from high speed, just so you know the stock pads work better when hot, then cold...
Cons - Every day driving they don't have the stock feel. Probably won't stop as fast as the stocks under light every day driving conditions on a dry day .. ( stocks suck when heat soaked )
No clue what your talking about once again, everyday driving the stock pads have a horrible feel, and those hps will stop faster everday driving on a "dry day" than the ss/tc pads, stock needs heat to work...
I guess I would rather have a pad that works no matter whats thrown at it VS a pad that only works well in certain conditions . The stock front pad is still very good but not track worthy for long/. They are more "grabby" under normal dry driving.
The stock pad is not good on the track for long??? 35,000km on my stock brakes, 4 track days on those brakes... going from 200-100-80-120-80-140-60..., they are not grabby under normal conditions...
Yet the HAWK stuff is more consistent under every variable.
Seriously, if you don't track your car then sure go for the HPS.. they probably are a great everyday brake pad, i'm not bashing HAWK pads in anways you would need at least the hp+ pads to I geuss somewhat match up to the stock pads, you just can't beat the stock pads for it's ability to work fine on the street, and great on the track
You have no idea what you are talking about...
I've got the R1 Concepts drilled and slotted with the Hawk HPS and they do just fine in daily driving ..
Won't even talk about drilled and slotted rotors, let's just say SURFACE AREA OWNS ALL
The peddle is more stiff and the pads aren't as "squishy" as the stocks ..
Peddle is more stiff? No idea how that works, the only thing that could make the pedal more stiff is if you had a air in the lines, and bleed your system.. or If you put on ss lines "would help"... or your brakes had worn down enough that you had to give more pedal
I would say to anyone looking at brakes if your front stock pads are good stick with them and just change the rotors all the way around and the rear pads , make sure the slide pins are lubed with the right grease.
Nothing is wrong with the rear brake pad, once the pins are lubed they are fine
Hawks are more predictable under different conditions and don't really have a variation. They stay consistent.
For everyday driving and panic stopping yes, everything else no
I've had my HPS pads for 15k with R1 Drilled/slotted rotors .
Pros-
Don't heat up like the stocks under high speeds and continue to deliver stopping power without gumming up, Lower overall brake noise and squeal . Lowers dusting of rims by about 75% .
I'm assuming you mean braking from high speed, just so you know the stock pads work better when hot, then cold...
Cons - Every day driving they don't have the stock feel. Probably won't stop as fast as the stocks under light every day driving conditions on a dry day .. ( stocks suck when heat soaked )
No clue what your talking about once again, everyday driving the stock pads have a horrible feel, and those hps will stop faster everday driving on a "dry day" than the ss/tc pads, stock needs heat to work...
I guess I would rather have a pad that works no matter whats thrown at it VS a pad that only works well in certain conditions . The stock front pad is still very good but not track worthy for long/. They are more "grabby" under normal dry driving.
The stock pad is not good on the track for long??? 35,000km on my stock brakes, 4 track days on those brakes... going from 200-100-80-120-80-140-60..., they are not grabby under normal conditions...
Yet the HAWK stuff is more consistent under every variable.
Seriously, if you don't track your car then sure go for the HPS.. they probably are a great everyday brake pad, i'm not bashing HAWK pads in anways you would need at least the hp+ pads to I geuss somewhat match up to the stock pads, you just can't beat the stock pads for it's ability to work fine on the street, and great on the track
No one in this thread is talking about race pads in this thread, so the joke's on you. Besides, most modern race pad compounds have an extremely wide range of temperature, so your smart ass comments about how they perform are off too.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-23-10
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
1. i was about to get off the wrong exit when i realized i decided to cut back over onto the 2 lane highway but there was a car. there was the v right in front of me, i was going about 80 i nailed the brakes i dont even think abs kicked in but i made it.
2. i was doing about 90 in the right lane and my short left turning lane was coming up. i was on the other side of a tractor trailer. sped up to about 120 got in front of the truck and over, didnt see the two cars at the red light. got on the brakes but i didnt want to slide and came literally 6 inches front rear ending this mini van hard
those are just two instances where i think hps saved my life. i took the stockers off and they were pretty much brand new. still have them. even when my hawks run out i wouldnt even put the stocks back on and im a pretty thrifty guy. i dont usually like to talk up companies but you definatly get what you pay for the hawk hps's are great
so are twm short shifters btw
2. i was doing about 90 in the right lane and my short left turning lane was coming up. i was on the other side of a tractor trailer. sped up to about 120 got in front of the truck and over, didnt see the two cars at the red light. got on the brakes but i didnt want to slide and came literally 6 inches front rear ending this mini van hard
those are just two instances where i think hps saved my life. i took the stockers off and they were pretty much brand new. still have them. even when my hawks run out i wouldnt even put the stocks back on and im a pretty thrifty guy. i dont usually like to talk up companies but you definatly get what you pay for the hawk hps's are great
so are twm short shifters btw
Senior Member
Joined: 05-09-09
Posts: 826
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton
I read these posts and since I also have Hawk pads and R1 drilled/slotted rotors, I wanted to give my 2 cents from my own general driving impressions.
Firstly, the R1 hawk setup is damn good. The rear is a HUGE improvement over stock and there's no dust; however, on the front Brembo's, I have to say that those stock pads, which I believe are also Brembo's, are superior to the Hawks. Car still stops good, but I know for sure that the front pads were superior. Never had much dust on the factory fronts, but the backs were horrid. The pedal isn't quite as stiff, but if you push harder on it, they will grab. Still.. factory fronts have more stopping power, I'm 95% sure of that. Only way to tell would be to actually test them both side by side.. I just go by the seat of my pants :P
And yes, I would buy buddy's pads if he wanted to sell them as well lol.. just for future. I kept my old stock pads, they were around 60% I think after 2 years of use. The rears were so toasted, I'm surprised I didn't hit something. The left side was totally gone and almost wore through the spring on the pad, the rotor was almost completely worn down on the inside. GM really needs to fix that issue. I haven't inspected my **** since I put them on, which was probably Feb or March, I forget, but I did grease the pins and hope that solved the factory problem.
Firstly, the R1 hawk setup is damn good. The rear is a HUGE improvement over stock and there's no dust; however, on the front Brembo's, I have to say that those stock pads, which I believe are also Brembo's, are superior to the Hawks. Car still stops good, but I know for sure that the front pads were superior. Never had much dust on the factory fronts, but the backs were horrid. The pedal isn't quite as stiff, but if you push harder on it, they will grab. Still.. factory fronts have more stopping power, I'm 95% sure of that. Only way to tell would be to actually test them both side by side.. I just go by the seat of my pants :P
And yes, I would buy buddy's pads if he wanted to sell them as well lol.. just for future. I kept my old stock pads, they were around 60% I think after 2 years of use. The rears were so toasted, I'm surprised I didn't hit something. The left side was totally gone and almost wore through the spring on the pad, the rotor was almost completely worn down on the inside. GM really needs to fix that issue. I haven't inspected my **** since I put them on, which was probably Feb or March, I forget, but I did grease the pins and hope that solved the factory problem.
I read these posts and since I also have Hawk pads and R1 drilled/slotted rotors, I wanted to give my 2 cents from my own general driving impressions.
Firstly, the R1 hawk setup is damn good. The rear is a HUGE improvement over stock and there's no dust; however, on the front Brembo's, I have to say that those stock pads, which I believe are also Brembo's, are superior to the Hawks. Car still stops good, but I know for sure that the front pads were superior. Never had much dust on the factory fronts, but the backs were horrid. The pedal isn't quite as stiff, but if you push harder on it, they will grab. Still.. factory fronts have more stopping power, I'm 95% sure of that. Only way to tell would be to actually test them both side by side.. I just go by the seat of my pants :P
And yes, I would buy buddy's pads if he wanted to sell them as well lol.. just for future. I kept my old stock pads, they were around 60% I think after 2 years of use. The rears were so toasted, I'm surprised I didn't hit something. The left side was totally gone and almost wore through the spring on the pad, the rotor was almost completely worn down on the inside. GM really needs to fix that issue. I haven't inspected my **** since I put them on, which was probably Feb or March, I forget, but I did grease the pins and hope that solved the factory problem.
Firstly, the R1 hawk setup is damn good. The rear is a HUGE improvement over stock and there's no dust; however, on the front Brembo's, I have to say that those stock pads, which I believe are also Brembo's, are superior to the Hawks. Car still stops good, but I know for sure that the front pads were superior. Never had much dust on the factory fronts, but the backs were horrid. The pedal isn't quite as stiff, but if you push harder on it, they will grab. Still.. factory fronts have more stopping power, I'm 95% sure of that. Only way to tell would be to actually test them both side by side.. I just go by the seat of my pants :P
And yes, I would buy buddy's pads if he wanted to sell them as well lol.. just for future. I kept my old stock pads, they were around 60% I think after 2 years of use. The rears were so toasted, I'm surprised I didn't hit something. The left side was totally gone and almost wore through the spring on the pad, the rotor was almost completely worn down on the inside. GM really needs to fix that issue. I haven't inspected my **** since I put them on, which was probably Feb or March, I forget, but I did grease the pins and hope that solved the factory problem.
Boo. Mark you should know better than that. HPS and HP+ are NOT track pads. The stockers aren't really track pads, but they they will suffice for a few laps. They will wear much much faster than real track pads, and start fading. I swap to CF XR1 every time I go to the track.
New Member
Joined: 04-16-11
Posts: 141
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From: Houston
I have run hawk , EBC, anf Wagner thermo quiets on my TA and the best daily pad I found was the Wagner. I have slotted and drilled rotors with stainless lines. I chew through pads since it is a weekend toy. I plan to get new stock rotors for the rear the factory pads trashed mine and swap in the wagners all around. They stop well while the EBC were better but tge Wagner have the least amount of noise and dust from all the pads I have tried and handle a good high speed run through the twisties with heavy braking. I found my best gain in my last two modded cars were actually the stainless lines. Much better pedal feel and control.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-27-09
Posts: 2,803
Likes: 1
From: In the mountains
I said keep the stock pad if your rears are toast. For a lot the rears go before the front do and the fronts still have a lot of pad left on them ..
I also stated how I liked the stock pads performance under certain conditions ..
What you guys are saying is that the stock pads in the rears are track worthy , I've seen a few occasions in under 100 miles rears are completely scored and faded .
You all must have different factory rear brakes.
I also stated how I liked the stock pads performance under certain conditions ..
What you guys are saying is that the stock pads in the rears are track worthy , I've seen a few occasions in under 100 miles rears are completely scored and faded .
You all must have different factory rear brakes.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-27-09
Posts: 2,803
Likes: 1
From: In the mountains
If you don't wear them correctly they will suck and never work like you expect.
Maybe thats the issue with most improper wear in period .
i have 13k on stock brakes and never had a problem and been to track one time so far and they were good but the abs feedback was weird and the pedal felt squisy on the last session thats why im installing ss brake lines with wilwood 570 fluid and ill be fine!
if and when i do need new brakes ill probably just buy the stock rotors and pads or buy the two piece ones from john powell
if and when i do need new brakes ill probably just buy the stock rotors and pads or buy the two piece ones from john powell
Senior Member
Joined: 05-27-09
Posts: 2,803
Likes: 1
From: In the mountains
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...recall-187787/
Well then check out this thread , mine went at 18k and I was nice to them , the rears that is , no slide pin lube issues either , this is all very well documented ..
Well then check out this thread , mine went at 18k and I was nice to them , the rears that is , no slide pin lube issues either , this is all very well documented ..
Senior Member
Joined: 03-23-10
Posts: 1,140
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Boo. Mark you should know better than that. HPS and HP+ are NOT track pads. The stockers aren't really track pads, but they they will suffice for a few laps. They will wear much much faster than real track pads, and start fading. I swap to CF XR1 every time I go to the track.
Senior Member
Joined: 07-18-08
Posts: 1,346
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From: Maple Syrup Land
i have 13k on stock brakes and never had a problem and been to track one time so far and they were good but the abs feedback was weird and the pedal felt squisy on the last session thats why im installing ss brake lines with wilwood 570 fluid and ill be fine!
if and when i do need new brakes ill probably just buy the stock rotors and pads or buy the two piece ones from john powell
if and when i do need new brakes ill probably just buy the stock rotors and pads or buy the two piece ones from john powell
Depends on the track, and how fast you're going. If it's bumpy in a brake zone, you will trigger ABS whether you like it or not. For a high speed, hard brake zone, it's best if you don't trigger ABS much. A tiny bit is ok, but that should tell you to back off a hair.