No biggy but the trailer hitch kit is what looks kind of gay

 

you can tow with it, i have a hitch on my 08 ss turbo, i tow a 2008 sea doo rxp x jet ski with no issues what so ever.

 

I just had to ad this, I saw it online a while ago, it cant be good on that poor 2.4!

sorry that its a shitty pic.

 

The 2.4 would probaly tow better because it is NA and likely makes more torqie when maintaining speed vs the TC which does't make much power when it is not boosting.
Plus it mostly is an automatic which is OK to tow with per GM.

 

Guess what they tow with in Europe? Not big ol' pickups, but with cars, most have way less power than our cobalts.

You just see one viewpoint. Sure a truck is built to tow, therefore it's going to be better at it. But does that mean if it wasn't specifically built to tow massive loads it's can't tow at all? That's just pure ignorance.
I mean OBVIOUSLY you aren't going to haul a massive travel trailer with it, but a small U-haul or a dirt bike? That's possible for people who don't need a truck.

Obviously, a couple people have proved you wrong already, so need not say anymore.

 

I don't understand why there is this misunderstanding with Turbos and Towing. Pretty much every diesel vehicle on the road today has a turbo. The Ford Ecoboost v6 in their truck has turbos. Even big rigs don't have much power/torque until the turbo kicks in.

Turbos are not the issue, but perhaps the one in the TC is too small? I don't see how, but maybe that's the reason people say it might overheat?

 

3 yr old thread GO! ha

 

No ****...

 

 

OK, few things (looking beyond the fact you bumped a 3yr old thread)

The cars in Europe that tow, **** every driver off because they can't seem to go faster than 40ish mph, due to lack of power/torque. Those cars are also a lot different than an SS/TC.

Diesel engines produce so much more torque, also the vehicles you mentioned are designed to tow. Comparing apples to oranges there. The issue could come into play if your constantly in boost (even a few pounds) you heat soak your intercooler quickly, then you loose power from hot air entering the engine, so boost builds more, generates more heat, more heat into engine, increase cylinder temps you see where this is going?

 

i was just working on a guys car with a hitch ... it was a 2012 boss 302... whyyyyyyy lord why. oh well. next time hes in ill get pics ... we all were laughing at the shop.

 

lol i don't know what is funnier... you thinking it's a good idea to tow something with a cobalt or you thinking that it will burn your turbo out.. haha

they better stop putting turbo's on diesel trucks meant for towing.

 

Main reason they put lower tow ratings for manual cars is most people do not know how to properly shift and gear selection while towing which will lead to premature wear on the transmission or damage.

 

Of course u can tow light stuff, manual probably has how much u can tow in there.

 

for shens, throw this old thing in here

http://www.streetfire.net/video/civic-se-vs-cobalt-ls-with-trailer_42080.htm

 

"towing is not recomended, but 1000lbs and under is doable"

 

Track/autox/drag wheels and tool box fit nicely on a small trailer...

 

The only way you are going to blow a tc engine or turbo is by towing a 3000 pound trailer on a trifecta or hp tune. towing a 500 pound trailer is like loading the trunk and back seat with camping gear and a couple passengers. Stock turbo is good low end and would be fine for towing. 260 hp/trq is more than most trucks made pre 1990.

You kids are hilarious.

I would be more worried about clutch/trans/tow hitch mount than anything. The frame of a cobalt isn't designed to support any weight over the back.

 

Assuming your tongue weight is in check(500lbs), so you don't wreck your suspension - how could towing 1000lbs be bad?

****, some camping gear an some fat ass friends is way over 1000lbs, I imagine their weight suggestions are extremely safe. Much like how a stock lnf is at 15 psi, rather than them shipping it with a 22 psi tune.

 

Its not the same as loading the back seat or trunk, you have added drag with the trailer, you think I'm hilarious yet you over looked a major thing about trailers. Never said it would happen, said it could if the conditions where right, like driving into colorado nice incline for quite a few miles. I'm sure short distance towing with the correct selection of gears and a light trailor would be fine, key words there correct selection of gears.

 

key words.... can be done, not recommended.

/end thread

 

I know this thread is old but wanted some advice from people that have one...I'm interested in a hitch because I'm looking at purchasing a lightweight jet ski and single trailer.

So what brands have you guys tried that don't require drilling and are mostly hidden when not in use? I'm looking at hidden hitch brand but the instructions mention drilling, anyone with this know if that's true?

Also, what kind of receiver rise have you guys found to keep say a jet ski trailer pretty level?

 

They all require drilling but the spot is already marked on the frame, very easy. Etrailer has step by step videos for cobalt and hhr. I use a draw tite from them with the 4" rise ball mount that they recommend, going on 6 years of use with it. Works great for jetski/small boat.