wordsandsuits

I have a Forge BPV and still get flutter. Bought the car as is. Can someone tell me if something i wrong? I know the vacuum lines aren't factory routed. Can someone guide me?

09CobaltSS1

Where the heck is that vac line that leads under your charge pipe terminating?

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Thats the exact thing im asking myself

wordsandsuits

For some reason it goes straight to the firewall of the driver's side. I think it eventually ends up on the arm boost gauge? Should I disconnect it?

Where my finger points to is also a T valve that goes into the intake manifold.

09CobaltSS1

Oh, ok. So you have a true mechanical boost gauge then? Nothing wrong with that in the least. I was just hoping by the grace of god there was no bov finagled to work on those stock charge pipes. lol

Aside from the vacuum tank delete that has been done, nothing at least looks too fishy now that I know other line goes to a boost gauge. Personally, I'm not the biggest fan of the vac tank delete, but for others it works well. That can and will cause some "fluttering" to the bpv.

Also, what spring are you running in your forge bpv and is it a VTA or recirc unit?

wordsandsuits

Recirculating one. I used the spring that came with it. Yes just checked the line goes to the AEM boost gauge. It id a digital gauge.

LTBALTBMX

On my car, I get flutter occasionally when I lift off from light throttle. As I'm told, this is acceptable (though I personally have doubts). Do you experience flutter from lifting off after high boost?

09CobaltSS1

It comes with 2 springs, so please elaborate. You want to be running the green spring. If you're running the yellow spring, that will cause bunches of unwanted flutter.

wordsandsuits

I guess the question is should I hear anything after lifting off from high boost? It still sounds like a flutter but a high pitch one. It does not sound like a BoV or anything.

09CobaltSS1

Again, green or yellow spring?

wordsandsuits

Green

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

make sure your dv solenoid actually works

09CobaltSS1

^^That would be my next area to look at. The bpv solenoid could be crapping out, or there's a leak in one of the vac/boost lines.

Also, why is the line going to your bpv so short?

wordsandsuits

Which one is the solenoid. And I think it is short because previous owner cut it.

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

hook the dv directly to the manifold from the dink on top, if it works than your solenoid is mostly likely dead, if your boost gauge is reading vacuum and boost properly i doubt there is a leak

09CobaltSS1

There will be far more flutter by hooking it direct.

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

have you ever hooked it direct to manifold? i have and it worked fine.

ether way its worth a shot, it will be better if the solenoid is dead.

09CobaltSS1

I have. It drives the bpv nutty.

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

lol maybe there something wrong with your car then, vacuum opens it boost holds it shut, no reason why it wouldnt work properly, its how my bov is hooked up right now no issues.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

are u by any chance running the zfr turbo? cause if u are u wont get rid of that high pitched flutter, that's just how it sounds. the green spring helps with actual flutter on the low end where the yellow spring doesn't really want to open the bpv. without a vac tank ur probably just gonna have to deal with the sound, the vac tank holds vac and helps the bpv open and stay open properly. as soon as I took mine out I noticed it fluttering a little. that line running to the firewall, is that hard plastic? im not understanding when u need that last ziptie if the line is teed into the others. or is there something else in there we arnt seeing. if I was u id just remove the solenoid completely from the picture. the reason its there is to help with overboost or under boost situations, so the ecu can open or shut the bpv, the way its set up wont let it work, the bottom of the solenoid should only see vacuum so ud need a check valve on it. that's also another thing I noticed helps to remove flutter. the way it is now is pointless so just unplug the bottom hose and the one leasing to the bpv and take the bottom hose off the tee and just plug in the one going to the bpv. then run a hose from the bottom of the solenoid the the side where the bpv hose was connected to close it up so u don't have a boost leak from the hose connected to the charge pipe. then u shouldn't have much problems with it anymore.

also, take off ur bpv and greese it. that's probably also why its fluttering, not opening fast enough. has to be done at least once a year.

09CobaltSS1

lol.. There's absolutely nothing wrong with my car, nor would it compromise the effectiveness of the valve. It's designed to be limited utilizing the solenoid due to just how sensitive the bpv is by nature. Did you ever notice just how soft the diaphragm spring is? Yes you CAN run it direct without the solenoid, it just becomes ultra sensitive and makes a bunch of flutter at part throttle.

Anyways, I didn't realize this is what his thread was about.

wordsandsuits

So, keep the T that goes into the manifold?

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Ya keep that, one end goes to mani, one end to ur boost gauge, and one end to bpv. And run a hose from one of the open nipples of the solenoid to the other to close it. If that does nothing to help, remove bpv and grease it

breds2k

iTrader: (1)

So I just haven't been able to get mine right since installed, green spring confirmed, stock lines, tried two different positions (first I know was wrong).

Now with the opening facing down it has a horrible time with cold starts. If I literally touch the gas pedal while in cat warmup I get a full force flutter, if I start the car and walk away, let it warmup it drives like normal.

If I pedal through it like a cold start then right out in traffic I get a CEL for bypass valve. Gotta pull it out and check it AGAIN after just switch the direction properly last weekend. Not sure why this happens on cold start only, but when the car comes down off of high idle its actually flutters on its own. In addition not sure if its me, or my exhaust that's loud but the under 15psi partial noise that the bpv makes doesn't seem as loud or nearly as loud as my stock BPV was. WOT is fine though. Im just about to ditch the forge all together.

wordsandsuits

Problem Solved.

Forge BPV needed a "break in" period. Everything works as is now.