View Poll Results: When did you first notice rotor scoring/grinding? If no issue, how many mi on SS/TC?
Problem @ 1-5000 mi



136
25.61%
Problem @ 5001-10000 mi



83
15.63%
Problem @ 10001-15000 mi



40
7.53%
Problem @ 15001+ mi



39
7.34%
No Problem @ 1-5000 mi



43
8.10%
No Problem @ 5001-10000 mi



24
4.52%
No Problem @ 10001-15000 mi



18
3.39%
No Problem @ 15001+ mi



30
5.65%
Voted just to see results



118
22.22%
Voters: 531. You may not vote on this poll
Wearing rear brakes? Come in
Mine look exactly the same. Call the number I posted a page back and start a case with Chevrolet. They will get it fixed. It may take a few weeks but you need to get the ball rolling above the idiots at your dealership.
This is a manufacturer defect. Chevrolet will take care of it. You just need to do a bit of work on your end to get them to.
This is a manufacturer defect. Chevrolet will take care of it. You just need to do a bit of work on your end to get them to.
Ok so Chevy called the dealership I went to and doesn't believe them about why they didn't want to fix my car so now I have to take it another dealership and call them when I do. My Hawk pads already showed up but the rotors are still awful. Should my aim now be to have them replace the rotors and install my pads?
Ok so Chevy called the dealership I went to and doesn't believe them about why they didn't want to fix my car so now I have to take it another dealership and call them when I do. My Hawk pads already showed up but the rotors are still awful. Should my aim now be to have them replace the rotors and install my pads?
im in Canada that number is no good to me i called gm Canada. they called the dealership and just said the same thing the dealer ship said."its not a safety issue so its not covered under warranty "
I argued it a manufacturing defect. My rotors are terrible but the shop foreman said my front pads have about 60% left. So keep asking people how the rears are grinding even when I'm driving and get louder when I brake or turn. How is the rear brakes failing not a safety issue?
No matter how much I tried to pound it into their heads that it's manufactures defect, and that most of the people on this forum with LNF SS's are having this same issue, they blew the issue off as wear and tear. They took one look at my tires and completely disregarded anything I had to say about the issue. Tires F/R are already gone. Tires are completely unrelated to brakes.
I argued it a manufacturing defect. My rotors are terrible but the shop foreman said my front pads have about 60% left. So keep asking people how the rears are grinding even when I'm driving and get louder when I brake or turn. How is the rear brakes failing not a safety issue?
I had noise coming from my rears, and I felt groves on the inside of the rear rotors. The dealer refinished the rotors today and they are shiny and smooth on both sides, however my parking break will not hold the car at all. Before this my parking brake would hold the car on some fairly steep angles. I'm hoping the rotor surface needs a break-in period and then the parking brake will hold again.
UPDATE: After the service work was done, it took a week for the parking brake to hold as strong as it was before. I think the rotor surface had to be worn in before the pad could grip it effectively.
Last edited by aterminatorz; Nov 20, 2009 at 12:27 PM. Reason: update on service work
Not true. You can't stop your car without tires.... You can't stop your car without brakes....Safely. The harder you are on the brakes, the more your tires wear out.
Brakes aren't a safety issue because you can slow your car by other means. You can scrub your tires and wheels on curbs, use the fenders to drag on walls, drive through grass and hit small shrubs, heck you can even rear end people at stoplights. So you see, you don't really need your brakes and its not a safety issue. Plus why are you driving so fast that you need to slow down?
I had noise coming from my rears, and I felt groves on the inside of the rear rotors. The dealer refinished the rotors today and they are shiny and smooth on both sides, however my parking break will not hold the car at all. Before this my parking brake would hold the car on some fairly steep angles. I'm hoping the rotor surface needs a break-in period and then the parking brake will hold again.
Brakes aren't a safety issue because you can slow your car by other means. You can scrub your tires and wheels on curbs, use the fenders to drag on walls, drive through grass and hit small shrubs, heck you can even rear end people at stoplights. So you see, you don't really need your brakes and its not a safety issue. Plus why are you driving so fast that you need to slow down?
I had noise coming from my rears, and I felt groves on the inside of the rear rotors. The dealer refinished the rotors today and they are shiny and smooth on both sides, however my parking break will not hold the car at all. Before this my parking brake would hold the car on some fairly steep angles. I'm hoping the rotor surface needs a break-in period and then the parking brake will hold again.
Not true. You can't stop your car without tires.... You can't stop your car without brakes....Safely. The harder you are on the brakes, the more your tires wear out.
Brakes aren't a safety issue because you can slow your car by other means. You can scrub your tires and wheels on curbs, use the fenders to drag on walls, drive through grass and hit small shrubs, heck you can even rear end people at stoplights. So you see, you don't really need your brakes and its not a safety issue. Plus why are you driving so fast that you need to slow down?
I had noise coming from my rears, and I felt groves on the inside of the rear rotors. The dealer refinished the rotors today and they are shiny and smooth on both sides, however my parking break will not hold the car at all. Before this my parking brake would hold the car on some fairly steep angles. I'm hoping the rotor surface needs a break-in period and then the parking brake will hold again.
Brakes aren't a safety issue because you can slow your car by other means. You can scrub your tires and wheels on curbs, use the fenders to drag on walls, drive through grass and hit small shrubs, heck you can even rear end people at stoplights. So you see, you don't really need your brakes and its not a safety issue. Plus why are you driving so fast that you need to slow down?
I had noise coming from my rears, and I felt groves on the inside of the rear rotors. The dealer refinished the rotors today and they are shiny and smooth on both sides, however my parking break will not hold the car at all. Before this my parking brake would hold the car on some fairly steep angles. I'm hoping the rotor surface needs a break-in period and then the parking brake will hold again.
My rotors are FUUUUBAAR, 10k miles, dealer is replacing, theres actually a depression where the inboard pad sits, not just a groove, like a channel.... I will be getting cryotreated powerslots down the road
YAY YAY YAY
Just got my rear breaks serviced under warranty
Rotors got machined because they were still within spec and GM Says they have to be out of spec for replacment but the service manager said if the same thing happens again he will just order new ones. part of the reason behinde this is beacuse there not in stock at the dealership and on back order i believe and he wanted to finally do something for me!
Brake Pads are replaced under warranty as well plus i got knew Goodyear Eagle F1 DS-G3(i Purchased!) installed.
now that's an amazing tire!
So all in all a great day for me here i hope more and more people get this looked at and fixed for Free
Here's a pic of tire just cause
Just got my rear breaks serviced under warranty
Rotors got machined because they were still within spec and GM Says they have to be out of spec for replacment but the service manager said if the same thing happens again he will just order new ones. part of the reason behinde this is beacuse there not in stock at the dealership and on back order i believe and he wanted to finally do something for me!
Brake Pads are replaced under warranty as well plus i got knew Goodyear Eagle F1 DS-G3(i Purchased!) installed.
now that's an amazing tire!
So all in all a great day for me here i hope more and more people get this looked at and fixed for Free
Here's a pic of tire just cause
I had those tires on my maxima, good tire but picked up every stone and sprayed the body. I also many (3) nail repairs done on them. But they grip nice in the wet and dry, do not attempt on snow
So Ive had the grooved rear rotors for quite some time, (since about 10k) but never any grinding.. until recently that is. All of a sudden the rear right is grinding! I took it into the dealer to fix the broken pcv issue on the intake, and asked them to look at it.
Of course the answer was, pads are almost completely gone, and the rotors will probably need to be replaced (they helpfully suggested they would try to turn them first). Of course, its not under warranty, wear item, blah blah, $400 job. I told them where to shove it, now Im looking for new rotors and pads.
Anyone make slotted rear rotors yet or do I still need to go stock?
edit: 27k miles.
Of course the answer was, pads are almost completely gone, and the rotors will probably need to be replaced (they helpfully suggested they would try to turn them first). Of course, its not under warranty, wear item, blah blah, $400 job. I told them where to shove it, now Im looking for new rotors and pads.
Anyone make slotted rear rotors yet or do I still need to go stock?
edit: 27k miles.
I have a depression in my rotors as well. Now the rear doesn't want to stay straight when braking. Chevy rep didn't believe the crap the dealership was saying so they want me to go to another dealership and call them when I do.
ok guys...
so, in a nut shell, what do "we" believe the culprit is/are? i have read through all of the thread and have determined these possibilities:
1: lack of grease on the guide pins
2: bad pad compound (mixture - hard spots)
3: emergency brake out of adjustment
4: caliper bracket (molding partially coming in contact with rotor)
out of all the above possibilities and my experience as a mechanic, i believe the primary cause is the lack of grease on the guide pins. that would "aid" in the caliper "hanging up". add a harder compound (mixture) in the pad and grooves will begin...i have seen this before. add an out of adjustment parking brake (adjuster lever) does not release properly and leaves pad slightly in contact with the rotor...i have seen this also. why i have less faith in that the caliper is rubbing: the inconsistency of the grooves. everybody would have the same groove relationship on the rotor. i have compared a few of other cars with mine...
if it was abuse, it would affect ALL pads, not just one side and spot...da! so DO NOT allow the mechanic tell you anything different.
i am not saying i am correct, just adding my two cents and then some! i am bringing mine in tomorrow.
we will see...good luck to all
so, in a nut shell, what do "we" believe the culprit is/are? i have read through all of the thread and have determined these possibilities:
1: lack of grease on the guide pins
2: bad pad compound (mixture - hard spots)
3: emergency brake out of adjustment
4: caliper bracket (molding partially coming in contact with rotor)
out of all the above possibilities and my experience as a mechanic, i believe the primary cause is the lack of grease on the guide pins. that would "aid" in the caliper "hanging up". add a harder compound (mixture) in the pad and grooves will begin...i have seen this before. add an out of adjustment parking brake (adjuster lever) does not release properly and leaves pad slightly in contact with the rotor...i have seen this also. why i have less faith in that the caliper is rubbing: the inconsistency of the grooves. everybody would have the same groove relationship on the rotor. i have compared a few of other cars with mine...
if it was abuse, it would affect ALL pads, not just one side and spot...da! so DO NOT allow the mechanic tell you anything different.
i am not saying i am correct, just adding my two cents and then some! i am bringing mine in tomorrow.
I greased my pins just to be sure, but I think the biggest culprit is pad material. A lot of OEM pads love to eat away rotors, it just so happens we have a pad compound that wears out in 8k miles. I'd say, swap out pads, grease the pins, and adjust the e-brake all in 1 shot. I did this as soon as I got my SS/TC.
I greased my pins just to be sure, but I think the biggest culprit is pad material. A lot of OEM pads love to eat away rotors, it just so happens we have a pad compound that wears out in 8k miles. I'd say, swap out pads, grease the pins, and adjust the e-brake all in 1 shot. I did this as soon as I got my SS/TC.
I have about 300 miles so far and the rear rotors look just as good as the front rotors. It's still too early to tell. A SS/TC at work has started to show signs of grooving on the rear rotors. I'd tell the owner but I don't know him/her.
600 miles on my car (300 mile drive from ohio to newyork to get the car from another dealer) so technically only 300 miles have been driven by me, and the rear brakes look phuuuuuuuucked! the tech at my work said something the 2nd day i had it...its getting towed to the dealer right now because my shift linkage is fucked as well (and no it isnt from abuse) i havent had a chance to beat on the car yet...**** my life
I did some crazy burnishing when I swapped in the Hawk HPS pads. I found an empty parking lot and basically kept doing loops: get up to 30 MPH, brake hard to 5 MPH, rinse, and repeat. So far so good.
I remember my 00 Vic's OEM pads chewed up the rotors from day 1, so the HPS pads may indicate that a different friction material is the short answer. I'd still lube the guide pins and re-adjust the e-brake.
I remember my 00 Vic's OEM pads chewed up the rotors from day 1, so the HPS pads may indicate that a different friction material is the short answer. I'd still lube the guide pins and re-adjust the e-brake.



