WTH GM? Getting a little worried!
The tires look worn? Huh? I bought it 2 months ago or so. Have only made one payment so far. Bought it with 12 miles and currently has 4397. The tires look fine I am a manger of a mechanics shop. I'm not sure where you are seeing worn tires as none are. Unless the pic is playing tricks on you.
And if you mean being hard on the car. Well I bought a sports car. If it can't handle it to be driven as such. Then it shouldn't be marketed as such.
Also I took those pictures before I even broke it in so again I'm not sure what you are talking about.
And if you mean being hard on the car. Well I bought a sports car. If it can't handle it to be driven as such. Then it shouldn't be marketed as such.
Also I took those pictures before I even broke it in so again I'm not sure what you are talking about.
...boy, someone lied to you
Sounds like some small problems, see how it goes. Hell, you have a warranty for awhile...
It could be just the begining. Mine was in for the following
1. to replace a broken shifter knob
2. replace a broken drivers side inner door handle
3. sun roof adjustment
4. 3 times for the passenger power window
5. 02 sensor x 2
6. 2 times to adjust the shifter cables
7. 3 times because it would grind when cold when shifting from 3rd to 4th, but of course it would not
do it when it got to the dealer ship
8. a TPM on the drivers side front wheel
9. both key fobs replaced
10. Drivers side door saged and had to be adjusted
all this over a 2 and a half year period so I got rid of the fu*king thing, before the warrenty was up and the repairs started coming out of my pocket
1. to replace a broken shifter knob
2. replace a broken drivers side inner door handle
3. sun roof adjustment
4. 3 times for the passenger power window
5. 02 sensor x 2
6. 2 times to adjust the shifter cables
7. 3 times because it would grind when cold when shifting from 3rd to 4th, but of course it would not
do it when it got to the dealer ship
8. a TPM on the drivers side front wheel
9. both key fobs replaced
10. Drivers side door saged and had to be adjusted
all this over a 2 and a half year period so I got rid of the fu*king thing, before the warrenty was up and the repairs started coming out of my pocket

Last edited by BlueStang; Jul 17, 2010 at 02:13 AM.
IT's very presumptuous of you to be on the guy's case about abuse acting like you know all. Didn't you buy a tuned LNF that you thought was stock ? Maybe your mistaken here aswell.
I go through tires like I go through condoms...one hard ride and they are done. Last year I was riding on my second or third set under 14K miles, now this weekend I'll probably burn up my seventh set of BFG KDW2s...having a hard time finding a better tire in the grip vs. wear war. If you only knew what I do to my car, I call it spirited driving on a closed course...some call it ear to ear fun.
Those issues, while widespread, were isolated to the 3100, 3400, and 3800 V6. It involved poor sealing between the lower intake and cylinder heads, resulting in coolant and oil mixing together in either system.
GM revised the intake design later on to address the issue. The plastic intake gaskets, which sagged and disintegrated over time, were replaced with aluminum gaskets with neoprene inserts. When doing this job, I always obtain GM gaskets, because many aftermarket ones such as FelPro still do not use the upgraded design.
GM revised the intake design later on to address the issue. The plastic intake gaskets, which sagged and disintegrated over time, were replaced with aluminum gaskets with neoprene inserts. When doing this job, I always obtain GM gaskets, because many aftermarket ones such as FelPro still do not use the upgraded design.
It could be just the begining. Mine was in for the following
1. to replace a broken shifter knob
2. replace a broken drivers side inner door handle
3. sun roof adjustment
4. 3 times for the passenger power window
5. 02 sensor x 2
6. 2 times to adjust the shifter cables
7. 3 times because it would grind when cold when shifting from 3rd to 4th, but of course it would not
do it when it got to the dealer ship
8. a TPM on the drivers side front wheel
9. both key fobs replaced
all this over a 2 and a half year period so I got rid of the fu*king thing, before the warrenty was up and the repairs started coming out of my pocket

1. to replace a broken shifter knob
2. replace a broken drivers side inner door handle
3. sun roof adjustment
4. 3 times for the passenger power window
5. 02 sensor x 2
6. 2 times to adjust the shifter cables
7. 3 times because it would grind when cold when shifting from 3rd to 4th, but of course it would not
do it when it got to the dealer ship
8. a TPM on the drivers side front wheel
9. both key fobs replaced
all this over a 2 and a half year period so I got rid of the fu*king thing, before the warrenty was up and the repairs started coming out of my pocket


Sounds more to me like you beat the living **** out of your car and then act surprised when things break. Door handles and shift cables don't break under normal use.
Last edited by 08SSTCRD; Jul 10, 2010 at 11:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Its pretty obvious that the edges of the tires are very chewed up. Looks like some seriously hard cornering too place on those tires.
Actually GM has some of the best gaskets in the industry. While Honda and Toyota are still using cheap paper gaskets on their engines, GM upgraded to reuseable rubber/neoprene and aluminum gaskets around the time the LS series was coming out in 1997. My Dad's 2003 Chevy truck is a work vehicle and the engine and trans are bone dry with 110K miles on them. And by bone dry I mean not even any seepage, bone ******* dry.
On the other hand, my Mother's '03 Civic was leaking like a bastard from the oil pan with only 65K on it, so I had to replace the oil pan and crank seal. Also had a bad exhaust leak at the flex pipe. That motor was a real piece of garbage.
Actually GM has some of the best gaskets in the industry. While Honda and Toyota are still using cheap paper gaskets on their engines, GM upgraded to reuseable rubber/neoprene and aluminum gaskets around the time the LS series was coming out in 1997. My Dad's 2003 Chevy truck is a work vehicle and the engine and trans are bone dry with 110K miles on them. And by bone dry I mean not even any seepage, bone ******* dry.
On the other hand, my Mother's '03 Civic was leaking like a bastard from the oil pan with only 65K on it, so I had to replace the oil pan and crank seal. Also had a bad exhaust leak at the flex pipe. That motor was a real piece of garbage.
In general, GM has excellent engine sealing. Obviously there will always be a few exceptions to every standard.
First off I want to say I LOVE my cobalt SS. I enjoy it every day. I even like it *gasp* more than my previous 04 GTO.
BUT
I had a leak, took it in. And it was the timing cover ok mishaps happen little annoyed but whatever.
Then the tire monitoring system goes out. Well that's shitty ok whatever, get it fixed.
Now the crankshaft seal is leaking oil. This is all within 4500miles on the car!
AGH WHAT NEXT? I JUST WANT MY CAR!
BUT
I had a leak, took it in. And it was the timing cover ok mishaps happen little annoyed but whatever.
Then the tire monitoring system goes out. Well that's shitty ok whatever, get it fixed.
Now the crankshaft seal is leaking oil. This is all within 4500miles on the car!
AGH WHAT NEXT? I JUST WANT MY CAR!
#PIE0003: EI09140 - Engine Oil Leak From Crankshaft Front Oil Seal (Engineering Information) - (Jul 17, 2009)
Subject: EI09140 -- Engine Oil Leak From Crankshaft Front Oil Seal (Engineering Information)
Models: 2009 Chevrolet Cobalt, Cobalt SS, HHR, HHR SS, Malibu
2009 Pontiac G5, G6, Solstice, Solstice GXP
2009 Saturn Aura, Sky, Sky Redline
Equipped with Engine RPO LAP, LE5, LE8, LE9 or LNF
Attention: Proceed with this bulletin ONLY if the customer has commented about this concern AND the EI number is listed in GMVIS. If the customer has not commented about this condition or the EI does not show in GMVIS, disregard the bulletin and proceed with diagnostics found in published service information. THIS IS NOT A RECALL -- refer to Service Bulletin 04-00-89-053B for more detail on the use of Engineering Information bulletins.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Important: If the customer did not bring their vehicle in for this concern, DO NOT proceed with this bulletin.
Some customers may comment on an oil leak under the vehicle.
Further inspection will reveal the leak to be engine oil and show the leak is coming from the crankshaft front oil seal.
Cause
GM Engineering is attempting to determine the cause of the engine oil leak. General Motors has a need to gather information first-hand from the dealer technician DURING diagnosis and BEFORE repair. As a result, this information will be used by engineeering to help "root cause" the customer's concern and develop/validate a field fix.
Instructions
Important: GM Engineering is only interested in vehicles that have 16,093 km (10,000 mi) or less mileage.
First, verify the leak is engine oil using a leak detection lamp and dye. If the leak is engine oil and it is determined to be coming from the crankshaft front oil seal, please contact the engineer listed below for additional instructions. If the vehicle has mileage higher than 16,093 km (10,000 mi), proceed with diagnosing and repairing the vehicle based on information found in SI. Submit a Field Product Report with the repair information.
Unfortunately it sounds like it's a known issue, but they don't know root cause (though perhaps it has been updated since?).
Mine started at my camshaft end-plate and there was noticeable amounts of oil to the touch. Fixed that one. Now it's leaking near the camshaft position sensor (my block is nicely rust proofed for winter) and there is some evidence of sweating around the valve cover. I still intend to the get the TSB done, I just hate the thought of what is required to fix it when the motor runs find right now, the oil is just making a bit of a mess under the camshaft area.
Last edited by Permafried-; Jul 12, 2010 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Which V6 are you referring to?? The 3800 Series II revised design uses all aluminum gaskets with neoprene inserts.
Broken door handles, shift knobs, shift cables, and transmission gear clash??
Sounds more to me like you beat the living **** out of your car and then act surprised when things break. Door handles and shift cables don't break under normal use.
Broken door handles, shift knobs, shift cables, and transmission gear clash??
Sounds more to me like you beat the living **** out of your car and then act surprised when things break. Door handles and shift cables don't break under normal use.
Well when I said broken door handle I should of said the chrome tape on the fake chrome plastic handle came off, the cheap plastic top part of the shifter came off, the shifter cables did'nt break they had to be adusted, the transmission issue was when the car was cold. It was never **** kicked or raced around in. It was a cheap put togeter way too much plastic, entry level econo box, with a shitty low resale value.
My shifter top is sturdy and held in place. If it comes off by chance, glue it back on. Its not a big deal at all.
Your shifter cables had to be adjusted?? Wow, not a big deal. Welcome to the world of FWD, any time you have a linkage, whether it be shifter, clutch, parking brake, whatever, its going to eventually require some adjustment. Get over it.
Too much plastic?? LOL, you have no idea what you are talking about. Every interior of every car made since about 1980 is made of plastic. What else do you expect them to use?? Carbon fiber?? Steel?? Seriously, you are clueless.
Sounds to me like you're just trying to badmouth the car as opposed to bringing any valid concerns to the discussion.
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