Yeah there is an awesome how to floating AROUND by "frogstofall" it was a PDF you downloaded. I downloaded it and printed it its literally a how to for dummies

EDIT:here it is... doesn't get much better, just download the PDF from the appbox cloud thing....I used this to help a buddy and it was absolutely awesome and...... your welcome

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...alt-ss-272219/

 

I'm not the biggest fan of that "how to", but it at least gives some decent visuals.

It's missing vital torque specs and doesn't really explain reassembly very well. Plus I honestly never understood why they wasted their time removing the calipers. There's just no reason what so ever to remove them. lol

If I could find a way to post PDF's, I'll post a much more in depth guide by GM.

 

Please do^ just post to a google Dox or scribd

 

If you strip the toes holding the tob on you can bang a 9 or 11mm 12 point socket over them. Forget exactly what size but it does the trick. Cobalt trannies are easy. Just be aware there are 2 bolts near the back one above the other. People usually miss one of them. I call it the secret bolt.

 

You have my email, send them to me.
I can host them super easily.

 

No reason to remove brakes, no reason to remove anything steering, just unbolt the rack from the subframe. The axles just need to slide out of the tranny, didn't have to remove them from the hubs. Its very straight forward once you see how it goes, hardest part for me was frozen subframe bolts and muscling a 100lb tranny off the engine and getting the new one up there and bolted by myself on the floor with jackstands.

 

That's the easy part..

You're also making your life more difficult by not dropping the rack with the subframe. It's just far easier to remove it all as an assembly. It just opens up the underside so much nicer that way.

 

OP send me a PM I have the how to saved on my comp. Not sure who originally put it together but its a PDF

 

Have a good friend to help you and be there for moral support. If you have a harbor freight around you, I recommend buying an engine support brace to hold the motor, it also serves as a good place for a ratchet strap to help lift the tranny back in. Dropping the tranny is easy, but lining it back up is tedious the first time you do it. Also helps to have a friend to hold the crank while you loosen pressure plate and flywheel bolts and when you torque them back on.

 

Some one email me the dang .pdf so I can host it for people to click and save lol

 

email sent

 

I'd gather it's likely the same half assed one that frogs and james put together. Not the biggest fan of that one if that's the case.

 

It probably is, I just downloaded it incase I ever needed to change the clutch.

 

If Corey posts the one that I sent him, you'll have a much more detailed one with ALL the needed torque specs and reinstall info. It's GM's guide for a LSJ but, aside for a few small obvious differences, it's exactly the same for a LNF. If you can't figure out the differences, don't touch the car! lol

 

thats def good advise for everyone

 

Where you at Corey? You just take the money and run?? haha

 

Here you go!

This is the GM guide to doing it. I will have it hosted with no expiration so it will forever be here lol.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/rlqa3x...LSJ_Chap_5.pdf

 

Did the clutch replacement already I'am on the breaking in, didn't have a hard time with the help provided,except for getting the differential fluild.thank you all for the help

 

How long did it take you?

 

About 2.5 hrs to take down and 1.5 hrs to assemble everything seals clutch flywheel pressure plate and about another 2 hrs to put back together very simple,i think i didnt have a hard time becuase of the lift lol but good luck on yours watch out for the map sensor hitting the fans on the radiator that was the only thing that broke on me and have the out put shaft seals,rear main seal and the transmission oil oem from the dealer ready

 

Nice thats not bad 2hrs longer than i would have actually lol i could do it at school but class is only 4hrs long and i dont want to leave it for another day but ill see what happens. Could you do me a favor and make a list if everything you bought should helps lots of people and me lol

 

Yeah it was my first time ever doing a clutch lol got it good at the first try.
List
tob/slave cylinder
Flywheel rockauto.com
Output shaft seals for differential rockauto.com
Clutch line enginecratedepot.com
MTF from dealership
Rear Main Seal rockauto.com
Clutch southbend stg4+ from zzp.com
DOT 3 brakefluid

 

Nice thanks !!

 

Hey guys, I work for Toyota as an advisor. I have a shop labor rate of $45/hr for employees so im paying a master tech to do the work. I do want to provide them with the walkthrough just as a helping hand because one guy here did an LSJ clutch last year and said it was annoying.

Should I provide the "frog" walkthrough or the LSJ one linked above?


And for a daily/commuter am I going to want to blow my foot off if I go ky stage 3?

 

I would not recommend the KY stage 3. I have had two and both failed in 5k or less. They also destroyed the TOB.