I just bought some spare MAP from IamBroke so that I can clean/swap them out every oil change, now. Trying to get rid of some of these gremlins that make my car run weaker on some days by preventative maintenance.

 

there 15 bux from CED

 

correct, i was one of the first people to get BYT tuned and he realized that after i replace the 3rd or 4th map sensor that this was the cause. Definitely invest in a catch can or something. Cant wait till i can get another cobalt to toy with !!!

 

^^ you're looking to purchase another cobalt after you just sold your a few months back??

 

Thats how he rolls lol. He bought/sold mods like crazy, so why not cars too lol

 

talk about a glutton for punishment..

 

not right now, but in a year or so maybe. i truly miss having a fun car like that. It was awesome, My new project, a 1999 crown vic which im attempting to procharge should be fun though

eh you only live once lol

 

When you talk about running the stock maf, are you refering to the 2 bar or the gm upgrade?

 

neither.. MAF, MAP. what's the difference?

 

Nothing. I run MAFs where my MAPs were and vice versa. My car runs better that way.

 

the maf, 2.5bar maps, and 3bar upgraded maps are 3 different things here so let me clear up your confusion

There is no "upgrade" to the stock maf.. it is what it is. However it should absolutely be cleaned periodically as well with an electic parts cleaner.

The 2.5bar maps are the sensors mainly in question here. People were/are having issues with blowing the stock map sensors, especially when tuned, mainly due to oil blowby getting over the sensor skewing the pessure signal back to the ecm. This can generally be resolved 2 ways.. either by regularly maintaining the sensors with an electric parts cleaner, or others have seemed to have luck with installing a catch can.

The 3bar maps included in the GM upgrade kit are also just as prone to this same oil residue issue if not properly maintained the same way as mentioned above for the 2.5bar stock sensors

 

Sorry I miss typed it, I meant map not maf.

 

Stock tune and motor, down one MAP sensor in the intake manifold. Oily residue was found on and inside of it, replaced sensor. Would spraying the "dead" sensor with the MAF cleaner spray fix it? If so I'll start doing the oil change swap out.

 

Ive been running 24-25 psi for almost 20k miles now without a sensor malfunction. I just upgraded my lower charge pipe and intercooler over the weekend and I apparently have 0 blow by. The inside of the charge pipe and inlets to the stock intercooler were so dry it had a chalky appearance. Nick speaks tha troof

 

So would a bad MAP sensor cause my RPD to read Data Not Available every now and again? I have GMS1 and I've read on here that there was a bad batch of Bosch sensors right around the time I bought the kit. A lot of ppl on here say the lower MAP sensor is the culprit. This true?

 

Agree'd.... 30psi now for 5k miles an still on stock sensors

 

I used to get that when I was on the trifecta tune. Its gone away since switching

 

If you are making over 24psi and you hold that amount for more then 3 seconds, it will blank out the RPD. This can also happen tho when the MAP sensor blows.

 

This only happens periodically so is that a sign of a loose connection or the sensor slowly shitting the bed, or both?

 

Its just the way you are doing the pull. If you run out 1-3 like at the track, it will never happen. If you do a 3rd gear pull from 2500ish and hold over 24psi, it will blank out. Try it

 

So the only point of 3bar is to read boost correctly after 23psi?

So I boost at 23psi but due to my altitude I spike up to 25 often. Is it wise for me to get 3bar?

I guess I'll buy MPx Oil Catch can

 

I only boost spike to 23-24 and hold about 21-22 psi; blown map sensor at 25k miles... Time to buy a catch can I suppose

 

I think the term, "blown MAP" is where all the confusion is coming from. How about "gunked-up MAP?"