Best bang for the Buck
#1
Best bang for the Buck
okay,
so recently I was tuned by BYT and Im pretty sure my clutch hates me already. The stock clutch is slipping very easily and not getting my new found Powah to the ground. Im only making 298whp and 327trq.... I think these might be artificially low and the dyno was running low. If I floor it in 2nd gear or 3rd gear sitting around 4000rpms, they shoot up real quick and fall back down to where they should be = clutch slip.
So as the title asks. Whats the best clutch to purchase for the cost?
Im never gonna have a 500whp car so Im not looking for that. Just a clutch that can handle 400trq would work I think.
I've never installed a clutch so how much is it to get a shop to install? or a local cobalt owner with skillz? What kinda things are important to not over look when installing a clutch? new clutch rod? Flywheel necessary? Not sure what Im looking to spend right now but if I see some figures thrown out there I make a decision. lol.
so recently I was tuned by BYT and Im pretty sure my clutch hates me already. The stock clutch is slipping very easily and not getting my new found Powah to the ground. Im only making 298whp and 327trq.... I think these might be artificially low and the dyno was running low. If I floor it in 2nd gear or 3rd gear sitting around 4000rpms, they shoot up real quick and fall back down to where they should be = clutch slip.
So as the title asks. Whats the best clutch to purchase for the cost?
Im never gonna have a 500whp car so Im not looking for that. Just a clutch that can handle 400trq would work I think.
I've never installed a clutch so how much is it to get a shop to install? or a local cobalt owner with skillz? What kinda things are important to not over look when installing a clutch? new clutch rod? Flywheel necessary? Not sure what Im looking to spend right now but if I see some figures thrown out there I make a decision. lol.
#5
I dunno, I cant hear the wheels spinning, or screeching or anything... could it be the wheels? Im on Continental extreme contact DWS tires. 225/40/18
Its just wierd cause the rpm climb up real quick and the fall back to where they need to be, I dont feel like Im accelerating supper fast for the wheels to spin.
im traveling at highway speeds by the way. 3rd gear at 4000rpms.
#7
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Mine did the same thing and it definitely wasn't wheel spin... u can test it by having traction on and see if it says low traction... I got a clutch and its good now... BYT will install for 400 lol
#8
I find the wierd thing is that I dont smell burning clutch and I dont smell burning tires???
I dont hear anything other than the rpms climbing to indicate what is slipping?
YEAH, definately had traction on the whole time... I never saw it flashing. Good deal. New clutch it is then.. so now back to the search! something that can handle 400trq
#11
Senior Member
its slipping its not wheelspin, if your wheels were spinning your rpms would bounce not jump especially if you are flooring it over 4k then its the clutch for sure, especially looking at the graph when it breaks like that the dyno is detecting slippage, you probably don't smell it b/c its only slipping a little bit up top, i am pretty sure if you floored in 5th it would smell, but don't that at all until you secure a new one
#13
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You have a tune and no other mods? Correct? If so, those numbers seem pretty close to accurate. Did you get a baseline before the tune?
I had a similar issue back when I had my old setup. I was running too much timing in the mid range so it gave it a weird torque spike. Wasn't wheel spin because It still did it on the dyno. Wasn't a slipping clutch because the graphs would've shown that. See if BYT can maybe dial back the mid range a degree or 2 and see if that solves it
EDIT: based on your dyno graph..looks like your clutch is slipping
I had a similar issue back when I had my old setup. I was running too much timing in the mid range so it gave it a weird torque spike. Wasn't wheel spin because It still did it on the dyno. Wasn't a slipping clutch because the graphs would've shown that. See if BYT can maybe dial back the mid range a degree or 2 and see if that solves it
EDIT: based on your dyno graph..looks like your clutch is slipping
#19
The only thing I could think of that could have caused my clutch to wear so quickly on factory settings was that I got stock in a snow bank on a hill last year and I left traction control on while I was trying to to give it some gas and had the clutch part of the way in. I did that for about 5 minutes before the car wiggled free. I turned off the traction control as soon as I realized what I was doing, lol. Clutch holds great for stock power. This new found power is a different animal.
#21
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The only thing I could think of that could have caused my clutch to wear so quickly on factory settings was that I got stock in a snow bank on a hill last year and I left traction control on while I was trying to to give it some gas and had the clutch part of the way in. I did that for about 5 minutes before the car wiggled free. I turned off the traction control as soon as I realized what I was doing, lol. Clutch holds great for stock power. This new found power is a different animal.
#23
link to ky clutch? Never heard of it.
Also does anyone know the amount of torque all these clutches hold? Its like nobody has rated them? I dunno what 4 to 6 puck means. I cant relate to how kevlar backing can help the clutch, I know what kevlar is, lol.
Also does anyone know the amount of torque all these clutches hold? Its like nobody has rated them? I dunno what 4 to 6 puck means. I cant relate to how kevlar backing can help the clutch, I know what kevlar is, lol.