Ugh. How do you lower it? With straps or a seesaw-method, or something like that? Also, do you separate the rack from the subframe or just disconnect it from the steering rod somehow?

 

Just disconnect the steering rod, its easy to do.

We lower it with 2 jacks, its not the heavy either with 2 people working on it.

 

Get the Spec stage 3+ and call it a day

 

I did my clutch in my lsj and left the subframe in. I losened the subframe bolts and it gave me a little more play when separating the tranny, It would probably make it easier to drop the whole thing though. It took a little sqirming and elbo grease to get the new clutch bolted up. whole process took me about 3 hours then just added my fluids. I havnt heard abou this KY clutch... thats a good price im going to look into it for my LNF now.

 

Forget the ZZP rod, you won't need it with a SPEC when properly bled. I took mine out.

 

I have same HP/Torque as you..no problems with stock clutch slipping. If you floor it at 3000 RPM in 3rd and the rpms climb rapidly without corresponding increase in speed, you're slipping. Wheel traction shouldn't be an issue in 3rd on a dry surface. Do a ricer run from 60-90mph in 3rd (around 4000-6000 rpm). If you're not getting 4.5-4.8 sec you *could* be slipping, since we know the dyno #s should support that result (mine does).

 

does that look just a bit similar? I think so and its clutch slip. I ordered KY clutch the other day and it comes with new slave TOB for 387 shipped... almost can't go wrong with that and they claim 420 hp ... dont know why he didnt give me torque rating.

 

Joe, I researched about the Spec lightweight option and i'm pretty sure it's 14 or so holes drilled in the clutch just like a cross drilled brake rotor.

I'm in the same boat with near the same mileage. Mine will hold from a roll but on a sticky dragstrip it was slipping pretty bad. I plan on installing a new stock clutch with new fluid just because this one has treated me well with making 366wtq. I'm at the point where I won't be racing it at the track that much anymore also.

 

Have they corrected their offset issue? We keep getting customers emailing asking if our adjustable clutch rod will fix a clutch that disengages too high. They all have KY clutches.

 

matt. would someone need your adjustable clutch rod if they get your stage 4 clutch.

 

Matt, since you have jumped into this thread.... What clutch do you recommend that can handle about 450ft lbs that you have seen to give the least problems and best lifetime?

 

good question. this is what im looking for too.