i dont think it voids it when you change the charge piping. they just dont want you messing with the cat or the manifold or motor and suff like that. thats why you keep all your stock parts just in case.

 

Intake and exhaust...

 

To be redundant: no bolt-on part voids the warranty. The down-pipe, charge piping, exhaust, intake are all factory replacement products with NO moving parts. If a failure occurs and the dealership blames the after market product, they must PROVE the failure occured specifically because of the after market product. The Magnusson/Moss Act of 1975, (maybe 77), was put in place to protect the consumer.

Moving on, the best place to start is the hot side boost tubing. Why? because the factory boost tubing is very weak and prone to cracking, splitting, etc. Excluding an after market tune since many of you seem to be holding out for the GM Stage kit, the next best product would be the down-pipe. It's good for 15 HP and shaves roughly 10 pounds off the total weight. Then exhaust and intake.

For comparisons:

we flow bench tested everything.

stock down-pipe flowed 299 cfm.
our down-pipe, with hi-flow converter, flowed - 400 cfm

stock muffler with tubing and tip attached flowed 540 cfm
our muffler with 3" tubing and tip attached flowed - 727 cfm

stock resonator with tubing flowed 470 cfm
our resonator with 3" tubing attached flowed 585 cfm

stock cold side charge pipe - I do not have the flow numbers at this moment
our cold side charge pipe - I do not have the flow numbers at this moment

stock hot side charge pipe - I do not have the flow numbers at this moment
our "Performance" hot side boost tubing flowed 488 cfm
our "appearance" hot side boost tubing, similar to our competitor except ours is two pieces instead of three, flowed 450 cfm

So, as you can see there is a significant gain in flow for both the exhaust and down-pipe as well as the boost tubing.

 

Wow, thanks for the info! That's very useful information.

 

So the stock muffler/tubing/tip flows more than the dp with high flow cat? That would mean that cat back exhaust does no good unless you go with catless dp. Correct?

 

I thought it was not possible o gain any extra power out of these cars without a tune of some sort because of the ECU, is this true?

 

tom g. i think ur right, the ecu does have it's parameters, thats why the cel light gets thrwon some many times when people aftermarket without custom tune

i've never heard 'hot side' and 'cold side' terms used for tubing. so when you get the hahn or cia charge piping, is that taking care of both cold and hot sides?

 

Driver mod and tune.

 

ok, you buy an after market intake, intake gets wet. maf gets shitty. limp mode triggered. voided warranty.

now, i own an ss/sc so i know first hand that this can happen, off the top of my head i cant remember where the intake filter is on a ss/tc but its not that clear cut.

personally, i hate when people keep asking about warranty warranty warranty, if your gonna mod your car be willing to pay for it. either you decide to keep the warranty and dont mod at all or stop being such a pansy and stop worrying.

 

Hot side is hot because it runs from the turbo that is spooling and filled with hot exhaust and runs it (on the LNF) across the engine through a plastic piece of tubing into the intercooler which cools that air, then brings it to the throttle body through a cold side pipe.

Only restrictive piece of the charge piping is the hot side part. From what i have seen the cold side pipe is pretty straight forward and small and no restriction

 

The best 2 mods assuming power is what you are after are the down pipe and a tune. Most will come from the tune though. I have just a tune and I am making 300.5/340 tq@ the wheel. From what I've seen here many people are spending alot more money and only getting a few more ponies.

 

Who tuned you? That's impressive. How long/many miles have you had the tune?

 

im sorry but im going to follow what the vendors say on this one.

im preferring the DP.

he is right about the bolt ons.

only thing to truly void ur warranty is bigger turbo (or kit) custom tune. and possible the bigger intercooler....oh and meth kit....

now...


Psykosteveo and area 47 give wicked toons. i know a couple others do but i cant think of them right now

The DP wont void the warranty.

and limp mode doesnt void warranty either.

 

Vince from Trifecta! ^^^

 

I don't think a bigger intercooler is going to void my warranty. Cooling the air more doesn't hurt the car. Probably helps more than anything. Especially if I didn't change the stock tune.

 

i said i think

dont quote me, lol

 

I think it all depends on what dealer you take it to.

If you are greatly altering the performance of the car then I think they will void it.

A tune can always void the warranty. New turbo or turbo upgrade will void the warranty. D/P is iffy. Most dealers don't like anyone screwing with the Cat setup. Any combination of those will for sure void the warranty.

Intercooler would not void warranty. It doesn't change how the car runs really. Car is still adjust AFR as needed.

 

DP cant mess up the warranty. doesnt even mess with the motor. just smog compliance.

and a highflow cat is still legal.

 

ok , 2 part question, someone help on this....

1. so when you order the CIA or Hahn charge piping, that would replace the stock HOT SIDE TUBING? correct? But you still have to replace stock COLD SIDE TUBING? I am assuming that when we finally get the GM stage kit, the intake piece that comes with that tune will replace the stock COLD SIDE TUBING? CORRECT?

2. now, assuming that I am getting the GM stage kit installed, which will more than likely provide 315hp and 340 ft/lbs tq without ANY SUPPORTING MODS. Why bother putting on a high flow downpipe either BEFORE or AFTER the gm tune, because from what I'm hearing, the GM kit has very tight reigns on power output thus making the upgraded downpipe rather ineffective.

Obviously, if you went and put on the that same dp and cp PRIOR to a CUSTOM NON GM TUNE, then ofcourse one would reap great amounts of power , but with the gm kit tune, it seems only logical from an economical standpoint to just do the charge piping for reasons of stability and maintainence? (because plastic tubng is cheap and bad) DOES THIS MAKE SENSE. PLEASE ANSWER BOTH QUESTIONS IF YOU CAN, THANX

 

ok the Gm stage kit wont provide those numbers as far my knowledge goes. the clutch is only safe for roughly 320 WHP

i dont know bout the cold side tubing.

it doesnt matter if u put in on b4 or after. its a canned tune(general) from GM. you wont get optimal performance from it unless u custom tune for better flow.

 

yes exactly, so it seems if ur getting the gm stage kit, just go with the charge piping for the sake of quality materials and air flow. don't bother with the DP since it is a canned tune and you won't get any additional power through the adding of DP, whether before or after gm tune!! btw, i meant 315 hp to crank which i guess would be about 270-275 whp due to %15 drivetrain loss.

which makes me wonder these stock ss/tc guys are getting 240 whp stock!!?? probably using the smile producing dynojet dyno. i bet a stock ss/tc makes bout 215-220mwhp on a dyno dynamics dyno!!

 

cars have been dynoed at 258-260 whp stock.

 

again, it depends on dyno and air inlet temps and density. do it in the winter with a huge blower in front of fmic and a garage that is cold and there's ur 250 whp i've spent alot of time with cars being dynoed and all the variables. a stock STI puts down about 240 on a dyno dynamics and there is no way a stock ss/tc is pulling on a stock sti

 

gotta remember the differents in gear ratio, speeds, and some people on here are bull **** dude. lol

your going to gain more from a DP than CP. but CP will help once u tune.

 

one guy here posted a 13.6 was a link to you tube...
all stock thats pretty awsome