bpv stuck open?
bpv stuck open?
I've been having problems with my car(aka 3 weeks at the dealer so far). It poped code p0101 and the dealer has replaced a whole bunch of sensors, gms1 kit, ecu, maf sensor....ect. The car still runs the same. i get zero to little boost and you cant hear the turbo at all. It doesn't say engine reduced power though. The only thing i have on the car is gms1 and a catted zzp downpipe. I'm thinking the bpv might be stuck open, would that trigger a code though? They also replace my ic and all of the charge piping.
If the BPV is in fact stuck open/shut, the car will need to detect it more than once to set a CEL (P2261). When I got that to set I did numerous 3rd gear pulls when the car was running like trash, it eventually popped. Generally that code will set when a delta in mass air is detected between the MAF and MAP; however you could also have a boost leak or any number of other things (tends to set a P0236 which does not generate a CEL). You may have codes set but no CEL (I've had a few of those). Does it start up every single time with 0 boost, or is it a gradual thing as it warms up?
If the BPV is in fact stuck open/shut, the car will need to detect it more than once to set a CEL (P2261). When I got that to set I did numerous 3rd gear pulls when the car was running like trash, it eventually popped. Generally that code will set when a delta in mass air is detected between the MAF and MAP; however you could also have a boost leak or any number of other things (tends to set a P0236 which does not generate a CEL). You may have codes set but no CEL (I've had a few of those). Does it start up every single time with 0 boost, or is it a gradual thing as it warms up?
Hmmm, guess some things to have them check over even if they don't want to:
1) Check the BPV for rips/tears and ensure the solenoid is working
2) Check the wastegate to make sure it's not seized or failing to close entirely
3) Boost leak test
4) Compression test, or at the very least a leakdown test to make sure your valves are closing
This sounds a lot like what I had, but I at least set a P0236 followed by the P2261. When you matt the pedal does your boost gauge hit ~5PSI then drop to around 0 and the car feels like it has about as much HP/TQ as a smart car? I don't know how else to describe it besides when I put it to the floor my realtime fuel economy would hit insanely high values like 76L/100km (~3MPG) and the car was an abolute pig. At the very if they do 1-3 above, request they remove the MAP, ensure it looks good/clean and also inspect your intake valves for carbon build-up.
1) Check the BPV for rips/tears and ensure the solenoid is working
2) Check the wastegate to make sure it's not seized or failing to close entirely
3) Boost leak test
4) Compression test, or at the very least a leakdown test to make sure your valves are closing
This sounds a lot like what I had, but I at least set a P0236 followed by the P2261. When you matt the pedal does your boost gauge hit ~5PSI then drop to around 0 and the car feels like it has about as much HP/TQ as a smart car? I don't know how else to describe it besides when I put it to the floor my realtime fuel economy would hit insanely high values like 76L/100km (~3MPG) and the car was an abolute pig. At the very if they do 1-3 above, request they remove the MAP, ensure it looks good/clean and also inspect your intake valves for carbon build-up.
Hmmm, guess some things to have them check over even if they don't want to:
1) Check the BPV for rips/tears and ensure the solenoid is working
2) Check the wastegate to make sure it's not seized or failing to close entirely
3) Boost leak test
4) Compression test, or at the very least a leakdown test to make sure your valves are closing
This sounds a lot like what I had, but I at least set a P0236 followed by the P2261. When you matt the pedal does your boost gauge hit ~5PSI then drop to around 0 and the car feels like it has about as much HP/TQ as a smart car? I don't know how else to describe it besides when I put it to the floor my realtime fuel economy would hit insanely high values like 76L/100km (~3MPG) and the car was an abolute pig. At the very if they do 1-3 above, request they remove the MAP, ensure it looks good/clean and also inspect your intake valves for carbon build-up.
1) Check the BPV for rips/tears and ensure the solenoid is working
2) Check the wastegate to make sure it's not seized or failing to close entirely
3) Boost leak test
4) Compression test, or at the very least a leakdown test to make sure your valves are closing
This sounds a lot like what I had, but I at least set a P0236 followed by the P2261. When you matt the pedal does your boost gauge hit ~5PSI then drop to around 0 and the car feels like it has about as much HP/TQ as a smart car? I don't know how else to describe it besides when I put it to the floor my realtime fuel economy would hit insanely high values like 76L/100km (~3MPG) and the car was an abolute pig. At the very if they do 1-3 above, request they remove the MAP, ensure it looks good/clean and also inspect your intake valves for carbon build-up.
it hits zero psi no matter what i do with the gas
fuel economy went to ****.
gm is sending an engineer who should be there tomorrow.
i'm banking on it being the bpv stuck open or the waste gate being stuck open.
hmmm my bro had this prob with his SRT-4, the fins on his inlet side of the turbo blew out, even when u floored it, it produced 0 boost even, this might be your prob, it may not be noticable as it wasnt on his car, but its worth looking into
no boost leaks...they tested for them and found a crack and replaced the ic and all of the charge piping.
it hits zero psi no matter what i do with the gas
fuel economy went to ****.
gm is sending an engineer who should be there tomorrow.
i'm banking on it being the bpv stuck open or the waste gate being stuck open.
it hits zero psi no matter what i do with the gas
fuel economy went to ****.
gm is sending an engineer who should be there tomorrow.
i'm banking on it being the bpv stuck open or the waste gate being stuck open.
.
I can't say exactly what it is because it seems like they've checked everything...
If they haven't visually inspected the turbo, both inlet and exhaust sides... I would put money on catastrophic failure of the turbo.
I'm in for what the engineeers find.
If they haven't visually inspected the turbo, both inlet and exhaust sides... I would put money on catastrophic failure of the turbo.
I'm in for what the engineeers find.
In for results.
I'm trying to get to the bottom of a similar issue so I'll share this: Scheduled a (dealership) oil change recently and decided to swap the Forge bpv back to the stocker. I've had the intake/bpv off a few times and I'm familiar with the routine. I've also been GMS1 for 20k plus-no issues.
Took a drive tipped in to it and BAM 5 psi(no cel).Wtf. Made a fuel stop and tried it again and BAM 20+ psi. Next engine cycle was 5psi again; the following was normal(again).
Dealership informed me they cleared "several misfire codes" but didn't relate which; let alone what caused them(no mention of stuck bpv code but who knows). Couple days now and so far so good with stock bpv.
Coincidence?
Side note: New oem plugs went in today(34k miles).Stockers looked good-light ash; no burning/oil/discoloration.
I'm trying to get to the bottom of a similar issue so I'll share this: Scheduled a (dealership) oil change recently and decided to swap the Forge bpv back to the stocker. I've had the intake/bpv off a few times and I'm familiar with the routine. I've also been GMS1 for 20k plus-no issues.
Took a drive tipped in to it and BAM 5 psi(no cel).Wtf. Made a fuel stop and tried it again and BAM 20+ psi. Next engine cycle was 5psi again; the following was normal(again).
Dealership informed me they cleared "several misfire codes" but didn't relate which; let alone what caused them(no mention of stuck bpv code but who knows). Couple days now and so far so good with stock bpv.
Coincidence?
Side note: New oem plugs went in today(34k miles).Stockers looked good-light ash; no burning/oil/discoloration.
In for results.
I'm trying to get to the bottom of a similar issue so I'll share this: Scheduled a (dealership) oil change recently and decided to swap the Forge bpv back to the stocker. I've had the intake/bpv off a few times and I'm familiar with the routine. I've also been GMS1 for 20k plus-no issues.
Took a drive tipped in to it and BAM 5 psi(no cel).Wtf. Made a fuel stop and tried it again and BAM 20+ psi. Next engine cycle was 5psi again; the following was normal(again).
Dealership informed me they cleared "several misfire codes" but didn't relate which; let alone what caused them(no mention of stuck bpv code but who knows). Couple days now and so far so good with stock bpv.
Coincidence?
Side note: New oem plugs went in today(34k miles).Stockers looked good-light ash; no burning/oil/discoloration.
I'm trying to get to the bottom of a similar issue so I'll share this: Scheduled a (dealership) oil change recently and decided to swap the Forge bpv back to the stocker. I've had the intake/bpv off a few times and I'm familiar with the routine. I've also been GMS1 for 20k plus-no issues.
Took a drive tipped in to it and BAM 5 psi(no cel).Wtf. Made a fuel stop and tried it again and BAM 20+ psi. Next engine cycle was 5psi again; the following was normal(again).
Dealership informed me they cleared "several misfire codes" but didn't relate which; let alone what caused them(no mention of stuck bpv code but who knows). Couple days now and so far so good with stock bpv.
Coincidence?
Side note: New oem plugs went in today(34k miles).Stockers looked good-light ash; no burning/oil/discoloration.
current update....dealer called today and said the ic is broken from obvious accident damage and chevy isnt gonna cover it. i'm going tomorrow to inspect the car....i checked the ic before i dropped it off and there was nothing obvious. i wonder since they've had it for 2 1/2 weeks...maybe they damaged it if there is obvious damage.
I have been having similar problems. My bpv gets stuck every once in a while and it wont boost past 5 psi. I just wonder if switching to a forge bpv would help....suggestions? I've checked both MAP sensors and haven't found any oil, so it shouldn't be a problem with them, though I do have the gms1 sensors and was hptuned over gms1. Has anyone actually had somebody figure out what this problem is?
Well, had another 5 psi episode(no cel) with the Forge unit in place. After a restart back to "normal".
Turning my attention to the TMAP and associated issues(wiring harness/ac interference etc)
Turning my attention to the TMAP and associated issues(wiring harness/ac interference etc)
This is what I was worried about. I think its the 3 bar sensors. Something is not right with them. Ever since I got the gms1 installed I started having these problems. The dealer even replaced my wastegate solenoid once last year already. But I still have the problem.
PM sent, I don't want to write-up a novel again
. Starting with the TMAP and harness is your best bet though, that thing is such a pain in the ass with the GMS1 regardless of how carefully the installation is done.
. Starting with the TMAP and harness is your best bet though, that thing is such a pain in the ass with the GMS1 regardless of how carefully the installation is done.
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