2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

brembo issue

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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:32 PM
  #26  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by kidcrash603
Guys,

Our pins have a little rubber collar on them that holds the pins in place. If you have lots of hard braking and the calipers are exposed to lots of heat, the rubber collars can melt and seize into place, causing the pins to be siezed.

Trying to punch them out only results in bent pins most times.

Buy a pin kit from crate engine depot, cut the pins in half while still installed, and use a small butane torch to heat one end slightly, punch it out, and then do the other end.

I had to do mine at 36,000 miles, after a couple of hard auto-x days and a near accident which caused me to heat the rotors to a glaze and almost catch my pads on fire.

I did pads, 4 rotors, and a 2 pin kits. Next brake job the calipers will get sandblasted and be treated to a rebuild kit.
NOT RUBBER. Spring steel clip.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 07:30 AM
  #27  
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I'm going to have to do mine..

How hard is it to drill them out?
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:00 AM
  #28  
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^ It sucks, I'll be damn sure to keep these pins lubed from now on.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:59 AM
  #29  
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yall make what should be an extremely easy and quick brake swap sounds like a HUGE pita...
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:13 AM
  #30  
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I had the exact same problems. Ended up cutting out the center and punched the two ends out. My car had 20000km when I switched my brakes and they never saw a winter and they were still seized to crap. I actually made a couple ding marks on the calipers which really pissed me off as well. To solve the problem just re-lube them every oil change.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #31  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by jpower102
I'm going to have to do mine..

How hard is it to drill them out?
impossible without a mill and fixturing the caliper; the stainless pin will cause your drill bit to walk into the soft caliper and u be screwed.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:48 AM
  #32  
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I don't lube mine, ever. But I'm popping my pins multiple times a year for pad swaps.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #33  
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From: Port Perry
I use copper anti seize, the brembo stuff, on pad ends, piston to pad backing, caliper bridge, and stainless pins. Litely.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #34  
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From: Federal Way
Originally Posted by BLAZIN07SS
you can buy brembo calipers for $70.00 each? doesn't sound right
yeah...Ikr..real suspect

I know a place that you can get oem brembos for under $200
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #35  
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From: South Charleston, WV
Hm, my pins came right out tapping them with a hammer and my front brakes were pretty well crystallized and gone at 30,000 miles. I should have gotten rotors but wanted the car back on the road asap so I didn't wait. Dealer replaced them around 20k miles ago.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 01:20 PM
  #36  
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From: Montreal, Quebec
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
impossible without a mill and fixturing the caliper; the stainless pin will cause your drill bit to walk into the soft caliper and u be screwed.
I'm not sure what you mean by Ťmillť (I'm sorry, my mother tongue is french so I don't understand all terms, for me a mill is something for grain lol)

So, if I attach the caliper to make it solid and stable, there shouldn't be any problems..



Edit: OHHH a mill is a grinder right?
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 01:34 PM
  #37  
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From: Ontario
Mill A.K.A Drill press with a vice and use a diamond coated or carbide drill bits because they are stainless pins.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 02:15 PM
  #38  
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From: Montreal, Quebec
Originally Posted by Balt_and_Vette
Mill A.K.A Drill press with a vice and use a diamond coated or carbide drill bits because they are stainless pins.

Oh ok .. could i just use a smaller diameter bit, drill part of it and then pound the rest out with a punch/hammer? I dont have access to a mill ..
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 02:16 PM
  #39  
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From: Port Perry
use heat and a punch.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 03:31 PM
  #40  
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From: South Charleston, WV
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
use heat and a punch.
^^Yup

Use a propane or similar gas torch, even a heat gun would work. Gonna suck if you painted the calipers though as it might char your paint.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 03:34 PM
  #41  
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From: South Charleston, WV
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
I use copper anti seize, the brembo stuff, on pad ends, piston to pad backing, caliper bridge, and stainless pins. Litely.
I didn't know that was anti-seize, lol. I thought it was just brake quiet compound so I just applied it to the backside of the pads where the piston makes contact. If I keep the car long enough for another brake change, I'll remember that.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #42  
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From: Montreal, Quebec
So I'm going to try to replace my seized brembos this weekend.. got myself a grinder to cut the pins, a heat gun, Deep Creep and lots of willpower


I'm also going to try to bleed them (all 4 wheels I mean)... although it looks easy, but i've never done it before..

Does it really matter if i don't bleed the back wheels, my car has about 40k miles on it? And just bleed out the front ones to purge the fluid?

Last edited by jpower102; Aug 31, 2012 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 03:46 PM
  #43  
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Next time u install pins anti seaze them
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #44  
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From: Montreal, Quebec
Originally Posted by tomj77
Next time u install pins anti seaze them
Sure thing
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #45  
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From: chicago
Originally Posted by F_Imports_09tc
Mallett and brass punch. Push the retainer clip down or have soneone hokd it for you. Then put on your man pants and go to town. No reason they should be seized.

Try spraying it down with some brake dust cleaner before hand. Or pb blaster (or similar) and let it soak overnight
no reason they should be seized? you dont work on cars as a job i'm assuming... all the temperature changed, brakes going hot to cold and vice versa, calipers being aluminum and the pins being another material (steel?) corroding together... yeah there are two reasons right there
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 10:00 AM
  #46  
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From: Montreal, Quebec
So FINALLY got them done ... was one of the hardest jobs i've had to do..

Here's what I went through:

- Cutting the pins was pretty easy as I had a grinder
- The outer part of the pin was actually already loose when I cut it..
- The inner part of the pins is where the big job was.. I used a heat gun, Deep Creep, pounded the hell out of them, but nothing was even close to getting out..
At that point I was getting discouraged untill I went to see the neighbour which guess what,
HAD A MILL !!!

Still wasn't a walk in the park ... took probably 4-5 hours to drill, punch, drill, punch 3 of them out using titanium drill bits, but on the 4th one the drill bit broke inside!!! No way it was getting out of there...

So finally went and bought some cobalt drill bits which weren't that effective, but a combination of punching and drilling finally made it come out...

The calipers were pretty scratched at the end of the process, so I bought a red paint kit and now they look great!

In total, probably close to 20 hours of works, but I'm happy I got it done and I sure wouldn't wish all this crap to my worst enemy lol

Last edited by jpower102; Sep 3, 2012 at 10:16 AM.
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