Bypass Valve fix/Possible Boost Mod
10-09-2009, 04:46 PM
#101
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i did this and the check engine did not go away p2261. do i have to take off the tank completely, or do i need to put the stock bpv spring back in because i have the dejon spring and i am running a hks and it makes weird noises. after i change the hoses around the car did run better!!
10-09-2009, 08:41 PM
#104
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Ok guys sorry i took so long to reply. But yes RUKKEE on page 5 has done it. He has a perfect picture of it. I have had no problems with this set up since i did it. IMO it is more responsive and i have no problems building boost. IT builds just as fast if not faster. Thought everyone would like to see an extra option that i found for the people having the same problem as me.
P2261 was the code i was getting. I pulled the three bolt out of the BPV and cleaned it and put a little lube on it to keep it working properly. Mine actually had some dark brown material on it that could prevent it from completely closing. Once i did all of this including the tank delete my code went away.
The ONLY thing that makes sense to me is maybe to provide a SLIGHT delay in the BPV opening for the NLS feature. That's probably part of the system that gives us a split second to nail the NLS. After removal it might be even MORE critical to nail that NLS. That's my theory. If it's correct I'm not too worried. I don't NLS much at all. I did once since this mod and nailed it anyway.
I don't think it would make much difference which way you went. Having said that if you REALLY want to get critical then shorter would be better since it's volume of air that we're eliminating by bypassing the tank.
I think the EASIEST way would be to just buy a small chunk of hose. It'll be extremely easy to reverse the mod that way too.
Hmm... P2261. BPV stuck closed? That's the code right?
You have a lot of aftermarket stuff. I'm guessing either something is not connected correctly or you have a vacuum leak and it's not pulling enough vacuum to open the BPV.
You should get a pic up so we can have a look.
EDIT: on second though I'm with umrdyldo. I had the spring for a while and it didn't cause problems but I had everything else stock. I'd put the stock spring in like umrdyldo said and see if that takes care of it.
I don't think it would make much difference which way you went. Having said that if you REALLY want to get critical then shorter would be better since it's volume of air that we're eliminating by bypassing the tank.
I think the EASIEST way would be to just buy a small chunk of hose. It'll be extremely easy to reverse the mod that way too.
Hmm... P2261. BPV stuck closed? That's the code right?
You have a lot of aftermarket stuff. I'm guessing either something is not connected correctly or you have a vacuum leak and it's not pulling enough vacuum to open the BPV.
You should get a pic up so we can have a look.
EDIT: on second though I'm with umrdyldo. I had the spring for a while and it didn't cause problems but I had everything else stock. I'd put the stock spring in like umrdyldo said and see if that takes care of it.
Last edited by silverbullet08; 10-09-2009 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-09-2009, 11:14 PM
#105
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Ok guys sorry i took so long to reply. But yes RUKKEE on page 5 has done it. He has a perfect picture of it. I have had no problems with this set up since i did it. IMO it is more responsive and i have no problems building boost. IT builds just as fast if not faster. Thought everyone would like to see an extra option that i found for the people having the same problem as me.
P2261 was the code i was getting. I pulled the three bolt out of the BPV and cleaned it and put a little lube on it to keep it working properly. Mine actually had some dark brown material on it that could prevent it from completely closing. Once i did all of this including the tank delete my code went away.
P2261 was the code i was getting. I pulled the three bolt out of the BPV and cleaned it and put a little lube on it to keep it working properly. Mine actually had some dark brown material on it that could prevent it from completely closing. Once i did all of this including the tank delete my code went away.
Mine looks identical . My car must have had an issue with the bypass valve because before doing this mod i would never hear the bypass after the car warmed up. NOW i get a nice pssh every shift hot or cold.
I also had a little boost fluctuation .....it would go to 20-21 then down to 18 and back upto 20-21. I haven't seen it happen again since this mod.
I don't have a lot of miles on it yet so this could change but....... I've only seen positive effects from this mod.
Last edited by rukkee; 10-09-2009 at 11:48 PM.
10-10-2009, 11:38 AM
#106
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I actually stole that pic from Zander lol .
Mine looks identical . My car must have had an issue with the bypass valve because before doing this mod i would never hear the bypass after the car warmed up. NOW i get a nice pssh every shift hot or cold.
I also had a little boost fluctuation .....it would go to 20-21 then down to 18 and back upto 20-21. I haven't seen it happen again since this mod.
I don't have a lot of miles on it yet so this could change but....... I've only seen positive effects from this mod.
Mine looks identical . My car must have had an issue with the bypass valve because before doing this mod i would never hear the bypass after the car warmed up. NOW i get a nice pssh every shift hot or cold.
I also had a little boost fluctuation .....it would go to 20-21 then down to 18 and back upto 20-21. I haven't seen it happen again since this mod.
I don't have a lot of miles on it yet so this could change but....... I've only seen positive effects from this mod.
10-10-2009, 12:35 PM
#107
I did this mod and didn't see much of an increase in boost. It's so hard to tell with the cold weather.
Car seems to build boost much faster.
Also, I tried a 3/16 inner diameter and it just wasn't big enough. Had to go with 1/4" inner diameter hose. Stock hose clamps worked fine. I bought a foot of each and it was only $1.60
Cheap and easy. Just don't drop the clips in the engine bay
Car seems to build boost much faster.
Also, I tried a 3/16 inner diameter and it just wasn't big enough. Had to go with 1/4" inner diameter hose. Stock hose clamps worked fine. I bought a foot of each and it was only $1.60
Cheap and easy. Just don't drop the clips in the engine bay
10-10-2009, 01:55 PM
#110
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So, from another tuned and bolted balt who did this...how does it feel? Does it build boost faster and maybe get a pound or two more? Does this actually work. I have my tools in hand, just need to know if it is worth it or not. 
10-10-2009, 01:59 PM
#111
I have full bolt ons, i saw maybe 1lb in 1st and second and about 2-3 in 4th. was boosting about 21-22 and saw 23-24 spike when i did this. Its worth it anyways lol. have fun getting that tank out lol. word to the wise its easier if you go under the car
10-10-2009, 02:47 PM
#114
I cut my hose from the tank and put it on. I got 3/16 from the Solstice forum.
Sorry guys.
Last edited by Zander916; 10-10-2009 at 03:28 PM.
10-10-2009, 03:10 PM
#115
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It's easier to leave the tank in there . Just remove the hoses and plug the inlets to the tank. That way you can put it back if you have to take it in for service . Honestly thou ....I really doubt any dealer would even realize its missing lol.
10-10-2009, 03:16 PM
#116
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i vote for boost tank delete, but does it work and is it worth it i mean cool it reacts a lil bit faster but are there any power gains or anything of the sort..... if so i will do it but dont want to waste my time
10-10-2009, 04:10 PM
#118
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For the amount of time it takes to test it for yourself..... people should try it . You can leave the tank in place and just tuck the hoses out of the way . Get i 6-8 inch piece of tube and try it out. It honestly take 5 minutes to do.
10-11-2009, 12:39 AM
#120
Senior Member
Yeah i decided to do it, and yeah it felt like boost built faster. I wasn't monitoring the boost spikings and stuff, but easy to do. Just going to leave the tank there. **** that noise.
10-11-2009, 07:53 AM
#121
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My bypass sound is so much louder now ....It makes me think there was something wrong with it the way it was before . Before the mod i would only hear it when it was first ran in the morning . Now i hear it all the time. I did notice when the hose was hooked to the tank that it looked like it was starting to kink at the manifold connection .....so maybe straightening that out helped it out.
10-11-2009, 05:20 PM
#123
Just bypass it. Removing it from your car is optional.
Just make it look EXACTLY like the picture in post #88. You can buy new hose (7/16" I'm told) OR cut a piece of the existing that went to the tank.
You can also refer to the vid at the bottom of page 2 if that might help.
10-11-2009, 05:32 PM
#125
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I just got back from driving my car and I can't believe how much louder and constant my bypass sound is LOL ....... I could never get it to do what it's doing now so something in my bypass must have been screwed up .....the the bypass fixed the issue .
I made a thread last month about the bypass sound going away as the car was driven ...by 10 miles it was completely gone and wouldn't come back till a cold start.......now i can make it pop when ever i want to hehe...... I know its gay ........but it's kinda addicting making it go PSSSH.
Yep outside , it fit perfect and looks stock .
I made a thread last month about the bypass sound going away as the car was driven ...by 10 miles it was completely gone and wouldn't come back till a cold start.......now i can make it pop when ever i want to hehe...... I know its gay ........but it's kinda addicting making it go PSSSH.
Yep outside , it fit perfect and looks stock .
Last edited by rukkee; 10-11-2009 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost