2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Bypass Valve fix/Possible Boost Mod

Old 10-13-2009, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Gimpster
Maybe I'll get out the car tonight and do a before/after 3rd pull and post the logs. Although getting the cover off/on is a PITA blah.
I know i'm not looking forward to putting my car in the garage for the winter. She has a nice "sleeping bag" (cover) so she should be content.

I, on the other hand ....will be rocking a 98 sunfire AUTO lol......It's an Ebrake slidding machine. It's kinda fun driving a car you don't care about at all ... no door ding or pothole stress.
Old 10-13-2009, 06:01 PM
  #152  
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Hey, it could be worse.... I rocked this HOT purple SunBIRD one Winter. $200 bucks and a lot of motor honey later we got to spring again



It did snow here last weekend, but thankfully they didn't feel the need to spray brine everywhere. Otherwise I wouldnt even drag it out of the garage one last time.

---

EDIT

So.. .what am I logging here tonight?

Stock
With tank removed
With solenoid AND tank removed

?

Last edited by Gimpster; 10-13-2009 at 06:02 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 10-13-2009, 07:49 PM
  #153  
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all you should be testing is stock, and with this bypass mod. Don't care about the tank itself. You don't remove the selenoid.
Old 10-13-2009, 09:02 PM
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OKAY, I tested stock, without tank only and then solenoid totally removed from system just now. You guys are lucky I like you, because it started to sprinkle as I did the second test. I spent like 12 hours washing over, under and waxxing the car 3wks ago

I'll wait until I get them side-by-side in Excel, but at this moment I can tell you there were no gains in boost @ upper rpm ranges. Not sure about boost recovery between shifts until I get the data in there.

Gimme a lil bit.
Old 10-13-2009, 10:00 PM
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People thought this was a mod for more boost?
The mod does exactly what I thought it would do, faster spool up, steady peak boost in all gears, with less drop off in shifts.
Old 10-13-2009, 10:02 PM
  #156  
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https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...87#post4376287

There are the testing results, I figured it deserved a new not 9 page thread.

HHRSSouth, some people claimed to see more boost... which I knew wouldnt be the case and the data confirms that to me. Unless the PCM was commanding the BPV to crack open up top, there was no way.
Old 10-13-2009, 10:04 PM
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Yeah saw the post after I had posted one here already.
Old 10-13-2009, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Gimpster
Hey, it could be worse.... I rocked this HOT purple SunBIRD one Winter. $200 bucks and a lot of motor honey later we got to spring again


It did snow here last weekend, but thankfully they didn't feel the need to spray brine everywhere. Otherwise I wouldnt even drag it out of the garage one last time.

---

EDIT

So.. .what am I logging here tonight?

Stock
With tank removed
With solenoid AND tank removed

?
Nice sun-chicken hehe.... 93-94? Those 3.1's last quite well , and a GT in that model is kinda rare. I had a 90 and 91 that i used for beaters , the 90 was a 2.0L and the 91 was a 3.1L .... the 3.1 back in it's day was pretty quick for what was out there at the time ...heheh.
Old 10-13-2009, 10:21 PM
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hey when you go to write your tune to your car from hp tuners how are you supposed to do that? i read only flash calibrations or something like that
Old 10-13-2009, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ColeJJones
hey when you go to write your tune to your car from hp tuners how are you supposed to do that? i read only flash calibrations or something like that
Joined the dark side it see lol. I remember when I traded my SC i had buyer's remorse cause i missed the SC whine and instant throttle response. That lasted till i got the S.chips tune. Good luck with the new ride/
Old 10-13-2009, 10:57 PM
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You just hit the write calibration button on the toolbar in VCM Editor.
Old 10-26-2009, 04:39 PM
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:59 PM
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hhhmmmmmzzzz
Old 03-21-2010, 11:44 PM
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sub'd.....might try it
Old 03-22-2010, 03:17 AM
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Holy thread-resurrection, Batman.
Old 03-27-2010, 11:00 PM
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Well I triedthis last night an my car felt a little slower response wise. It took longer to build boost as well. But I am having issues with boost flutter when I'm in vacuum below 0psi, so would this conclude that I have a vacuum leak somewhere?
Old 03-28-2010, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DoMiStIc_RuSh_06
Well I triedthis last night an my car felt a little slower response wise. It took longer to build boost as well. But I am having issues with boost flutter when I'm in vacuum below 0psi, so would this conclude that I have a vacuum leak somewhere?
well I've had it done for awhile now, I don't have any boost flutter below 0 psi... my bpv is more responsive... still waiting to get my data-log back from Vince to see if any performance was lost.
Old 02-05-2011, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Zander916
Yep, that's a definite. I admit, I could just be dreaming about the 1 psi... looked like it. But I don't stare at the boost gauge all that much.
im still not understanding this lol.
Old 02-05-2011, 04:25 PM
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so u just leave the plugs un plug? or what lol
Old 02-05-2011, 06:18 PM
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Resurrected again!!
Old 04-11-2011, 06:53 AM
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by boosted10cobalt
so u just leave the plugs un plug? or what lol

No. You are bypasing the vacume tank. If you actually trace the three vacume lines that are on the front of the motor you will see exactly how its done. I believe there are pictures in the thread aswell. And no you dont see more boost. if you have a vacume leak then your Bypass valve will crack open and you could lose a little boost up top. It will make your valve response go up slightly since your getting rid of extra line and a box that has to be filled first.
Old 07-02-2011, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by silverbullet08
This should be a sticky if we can make it, After about an hour of trouble shooting and test runs i have found out why my car would only boost to about 10 psi, sometimes 14psi, and other times only 5psi. Its another one of GM's contraptions that hasnt worked for me. I have heard others talking about this so i did some research and turned some bolts and this is what i found. THIS MAY ACTUALLY BE A BOOST MOD. I am boosting 18psi now that i have done this. Im not sure what the factory boost setting is so correct me if im wrong.

HOW IT WORKS:
The LNF has a recirculating bypass valve/Blow off valve located on the passanger side of the turbo. It is held on by three 10mm bolts and a vacum line in the middle of the plate. When throttle is released vacume travels throught the lines pulling back on the valve and releasing it backwards through your air intake/air filter after the MAF sensor.

THE PROBLEM:
On a scanner or code reader, you will see a turbo/supercharger bypass mechanicle code. You may get random codes about unexplained air/fuel misreading. Your car will boost to the propper level sometimes but not always, seeing a varitation of boost levels between 0-10psi.

WHAT CAUSES IT:
There are three actual problems that can occure, a leaking vacume line, actual bypass valve stuck in the turbo, or the GM engineered vacume tank may be leaking or have a bad check valve inside. The tank is there to help build and store vacume to help with "faster spool times" and make it more "responsive". IMO it does nothing but get in the way and cause problems. I felt like it spooled faster and was more responsive after i removed it.

THE FIX:
If it is your vacume tank you can easily bypass it in about 3 mins. There are three vacume lines coming up the front of the motor by the dipstick. One from your MAP sensor and other two from your vacume tank. First remove the Vacume line that comes up and goes into the top of the intake manifold then remove the vacume line closest to the dipstick on the bypass solinoid "where they all meet". cut about 5"-6" of vacume line off one of the lines you removed and plug it into the manifold and where you just disconnected it from the solenoid. Go for a drive and see if it solves it. If so then you can reach the vacume tank from the underside of the car to remove it "one bolt".

After doing this my car felt 10x more responsive, and boosts to 18psi consistantly. IDK what the actual factory boost setting is but it feels alot faster than what it felt at 15psi. And of course you should see a little more power with a little more boost but it made a pretty good difference for me.
Any updates on this mod? It essentially bypasses the lower vaccum tank.
I'm always leary when you try to *outsmart* the engineers. This tank stores vacuum *on tap* for quick BPV release when needed to prevent turbo surge. There are a TON of posts here...back and forth but nothing here convinces me. Anyone here with it NOW? Feed back appreciated.
Old 07-04-2011, 03:50 PM
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My impressions: Slightly more responsive/quicker spool with mod in place; my main concern is what you indicated regarding "in boost" conditions. Mod was in use at the track.
Old 10-28-2011, 03:05 PM
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