hmm.. I'll do some experimentation on this.. im definately not in the same ball park with Tq... Im closer to 330-340 I think... but I've WOT'd at 45 in 3rd... not quite a WOT at 55in 4th... and about the same at 60 in 5th... the slipping happens initially , raises the RPM up by about 1000... I feather the accelerator.. it grips and its good... its worst in 3rd though.... I really have to feather it...

 

Its not the power, its the torque down low that these cars make that causes the stock clutch to go. Upgrading to a bigger turbo such as a bnr could make your stock clutch last as the boost doesn't come on as hard as the stocker if you haven't glazed it already but it seems you have already. As ccss3 said, your tunee could control the boost ramp and help with that but you really shouldn't be going wot til around 3500rpm in 3rd and above.

 

sounds like I just have to adjust my driving style here for a bit... I'll do that and see what happens... and I get that point Faster... I was subbing power for TQ in this thread since that was the subject.. but I shouldnt try and confuse it.. so my bad on that one...

 

Might do the trick, that's why I asked about RPM. Even with only GMS1, if I get into 3rd too early (I won't go WOT in 4th or 5th due to load on the clutch at that point) with it being winter, I'll get slip 'cause the clutch is cold. With the TQ you're putting down, I'm not surprised the stock is slipping, but change the habits and you should probably be fine with the stocker .

 

Also shifting about 3k is easy on your clutch as oppose to down low at like 2k or less.

 

yeah.. I'll be starting some of that today.. considering filming it at some point with the GoPro...

 

Agreed. 1st is the only gear I shift higher during normal driving (about 3600) but never lower than 3k.

 

My clutch has started slipping in 3rd at wide open throttle recently, so i wanted to get an upgraded clutch to handle the power. Plus i wanted to re-tune, so i could have 100% of my power come in earlier gears...the nls feature will be lost with any aftermarket clutch though right?

 

I don't see how the nls would be lost with an aftermarket clutch... You can nls any car even without the feature, just make sure you don't smack the rev limiter and miss a gear...

 

I personally use a Spec stage 3+ plus. Full faced semi-metallic. Clutch engages smoother than stock, just barely heavier pedal pressure, stock engagement point, and once it's warmed up, it'll hold anything.

I think Spec rates it for 550ft/lbs. Most of the time I rev match for fear it will eat my transmission haha. Only problem is that the spec is a little more pricey. But it's well worth the money for what it is.

 

The actual NLS feature itself isn't gone, it's just recommended not to do it with upgraded clutches.

 

do you know why?
Just curiosity, but that is a pretty cool feature to have with the car, but honestly, i only used it sometimes at the track.

 

You will break your transmission. Basically since the clutch isn't slipping that's no longer the weak link. Next weakest is usually the transmission.

 

Oh, so how is a much better clutch not able to take the nls feature, but the stocker can?

 

When you are 100% throttle the ecu cuts fuel for .5-.7 of a second as soon as you push in the clutch so you can complete a nls. I don't see why you couldn't do it with an aftermarket clutch... I'd say you are 99% fine using the nls with a better clutch.

 

The puck clutch won't slip. So something else becomes the weak link. Your clutch would be fine still. Also since you are tuned you probably have a lot more power than stock which your car wasn't really designed for.

 

Do yourself a favor and ignore this post.

 

lol, thanks guys..just trying to get some more knowledge

 

No prob. Better to learn on here then learning as you stare at the pile that used to be your trans lol.

 

I've got a Spec 3+ I've been wanting to sell. Pedal pressure doesn't seem to be an issue with the higher capacity clutches.

 

the spec clutches for hondas suck ass, so is the spec clutches for our cars any good?

 

Everybody will have their own opinions, but I think it's safe to say that the 3+ is in the better half of what's available for our cars.

In general I think clutches are hit-and-miss depending on the type of car, kind of like what you're talking about. The Mustang guys seem to like Spec a lot from what I've seen.

After having a lightweight flywheel on my car, I'd recommend it too. It does take some getting used to for stop-and-go, but it makes a difference when you're getting on it. If you match this with a Spec flywheel, you'll not only assure that you've got a good mating surface for the clutch, but the friction area on the Spec flywheel is replaceable, so you don't have to worry about machining or buying a new flywheel later down the line. You'll also completely avoid any potential issues people have had sometimes pairing aftermarket clutches to stock flywheels.

 

What problems you speak of with matching aftermarket clutches with stock flywheels?

 

I'd assume it'd have to do with the surfaces not being suitable for friction against eachother, causing the clutch to slip when it shouldn't. Especially if the flywheel wasn't resurfaced or new.

My Spec 3+ will actually slip at WOT if I don't let it warm up with some normal driving first (metallic clutch + wisconsin = cold). Once it's warm though, it rips hard and is as smooth as warm butter. I've had the clutch with a new stock flywheel installed since October, 4-5k miles (car is my DD) without any issues.

Although I'm very careful to rev match and not engage too quickly because it definitely feels like it could tear the transmission to pieces.

 

Interesting. I live in WI too and have never experienced such things with the KY Stage 3 before warming up... I got a new flywheel as well.