I'll start from the top. I was driving down the freeway cursing and my low coolant came on. Kind of forgot about it because the car didn't get hot right away. Next day the car heated up to about to about 225. Added coolant. Jacked it up on stands and couldn't find any leaks anywhere. Drove it about another 5 days. Low coolant back on. This time I changed the oil and still couldn't see anything in the oil. Added coolant again. Another couple days passed, light is back on but this time I checked my oil and on the dip stick was a white milky substance. Car is still running perfectly fine thou, no smoke, no cels, no misfire. I'm pretty sure the coolant is some how leaking into to my oil, well obviously thats happening lol i guess my question is what are the odds its just the gasket? I have read on here people people losing coolant into their engine and it sounds like their car had some extreme symptoms compared to mine. Also I want to throw in my car is babied. I have had it since 15k miles. Now 130k. Full bolt ons and tune since 20k. Just had to redo my stock clutch finally at 120k so you know it doesnt get ran hard. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

 

compression test on all cylinders should give you a little incite.

Low or leaking compression on all cylinders is head gasket usually, leaking or low on 1 could be bad rings or something.

 

There's your problem. Road Rage

J/K

Is it an LNF? If so, could be a crack in the block. Or head gasket too. Sounds like a pretty small leak compared to most cracked/porous blocks, but that doesn't rule it out. Mine leaked even while parked.

 

I found a leak in the bottom of my rad, it's been there for awhile I add dexcol to the fill line in Dec. Its now about a 1/2'' mabe less below the line lol so it's super slow I just think of it as slowly flushing the system and add in new violent

 

You're coolant is leaking into your oil. You've cracked a coolant passage, and you're going to need a new short block.

 

Sounds like porus block or head gasket to me.

How exactly does one crack a coolant passage? Just thin ass walls or what?

 

Porosity->Weakened Material->Fatigue Failure (Crack)

The thin walls of the LNF block likely exacerbate the problem.

 

Its the "porus block" issue, it was never actually a porus block just crappy casting

 

I'm hoping to be able to excise the crack in mine, then throw it on the SEM at work and clear all of this up once-and-for-all.

 

I would love to see that if you do it. Do you think its the high cylinder pressure from increased boost and timing on a tune that can cause this issue to arise? I'm trying to wrap my head around how a coolant passage cracks into an oil drain back passage, weakened material with flex of material from heat and expansion? I'd like to hear other's thoughts.

 

Not sure that this would be the OP's problem, but I've heard about the waterpump gasket leaking internally into the timing cover. Thus allowing coolant to get into the oil. Has anybody ever had that happen or know if its possible?

 

So wierd that 8 years later, new Porous block issues keep showing up. Does this mean no one with an LNF block is safe? I cant afford a new block right now, just had a baby. If the block craps out on me, im driving my **** into a tree and calling the insurance company...

 

unfortunately porus block can show up any time. its sucks. I got new lnf engine under warrenty, doesn't make me feel safe, its still foam cast lnf engine. im in the same boat, if mine goes im gonna have to get a beater for awhile till I can get an ldk

 

I have thought about getting a ldk crate motor just so I don't have to worry about it anymore. Sucks that every time I get on it I think " well is this the time it cracks". Such good cars with weak components. My build date is in the bad period also. Problem is I hate to swap it with only 36,000 miles. Just don't want the car down in the middle of the summer when I can drive it ( sits all winter). Who knows how long you can get the ldk motors.

 

Is the porous block only an issue with the newer years? I have an 07 2.2 with a Gen 2 block, and just had an 07 2.2 block built.

Has me concerned

 

Im sure there's lots of lnf's still going strong without a hiccup. I don't let it worry me. If it happens it happens nothing you can do about it but get a replacement.

 

 

get one from zzp, has more goodies on it and cheaper than other places

 

Yeah Tom I've been thinking about that one minus the turbo. Still have my spare stocker.
Would also love to do the Tammy at the same time as they are also drying up. Lots to spend on a car worth$9500 though.
Would be nice to drive it knowing that I didn't have to worry about much if I went to the drag strip.

 

soon it will be easier to just buy a used lsj or something and pull the tranny from that.

 

my engine had the same problem gm couldent find any issues directly and i was 2 months out of warranty , my warranty company approved repairs and i have been waiting since april 2014 for a engine its in the shop getting installed now i noticed the part number changed when i need a engine no new engines could be found with a gm warranty so they had to manufacture some and i assume alot . curious if its still foam casted and if there any changes

below is the email from my parts manager


GM is not telling me what the actual difference is between the two LNF motors other than the 12649234 is replacing the 19329341. Generally, there will be a content difference(i.e., with or without oil pan, valve cover, etc.). It would appear to me this example has a renegotiated price.

 

I am also curious. Be sure to let us know somewhere if your block is still lost-foam cast. Maybe I'll pull my oil pan on Saturday and take some pictures. If so, I'll update my blog.