2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Does anybody let the car cool down after hard driving

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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 11:00 AM
  #26  
glhs379's Avatar
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From: Gainesville FL.
Yes the boost bleed we all did back then to get more boost. Too bad we didn't add anymore fuel to the equation which ended up in a poped head gasket most times or a smoked piston from a lean condition.

These new turbo cars are so far more advanced then the old school turbo dodges.

My glhs charger did go 12.61 @112 with a small 40 trim t3/t4 and a stock intercooler at 16lbs of boost however, wonder if i can get my balt to equal that!

Amazing these cars come factory with a nice size swingvalve off the turbo into a full 3 inch downpipe into a 2.5 inch mandrel bent cat back.

Would have killed for a turbo dodge to have come with that from the factory back then, best you got was a 2.5 dp on the later tonas and lebarons, and the chargers/omnis has a 2 1/4.

I went 112mph on just a 2.5dp, however it was dumped and did not flow thru a full exhaust.
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 02:17 PM
  #27  
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From: Chandler, AZ
Originally Posted by jimbreast
since i've had my car which has 6,200 miles on it, this has only happened once. after driving it really hard on a 90degree day i just shut it down without letting it cool off, when i did i noticed that the fan stayed running even with the key out, until it cooled down enough. so i don't worry about letting it cool down i figure it'll do it for me and if not then thats what the warranty is for
Exactly. The water pump is also electric, so it doesn't need the car running in order to cycle coolant. If you kill the car while it's hot, the fan and pump will run until it cools off. Turbo timers on stock SS Cobalts and HHRs are simply a waste of gas and money.
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 05:37 PM
  #28  
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rat
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From: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
Exactly. The water pump is also electric, so it doesn't need the car running in order to cycle coolant. If you kill the car while it's hot, the fan and pump will run until it cools off. Turbo timers on stock SS Cobalts and HHRs are simply a waste of gas and money.
The water pump is not electric... Perhaps you are thinking of the power steering. The water pump is driven off the timing chain.
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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 04:32 AM
  #29  
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From: Boston & SoCal
Originally Posted by BH06SS/SC
Mobil 1 isn't full synthetic since Exxon bought out Mobil. Don't get me wrong it's still a decent oil compared to some others out there, but it is definitely not the best oil you can be running anymore. I've used it in every performance car I've ever had but I'm about to make the switch to German Castrol soon. Best oil, period.
This has been going around the internet for some time and when people keep repeating it, all it does is propagate the myth (that was probably started by a competitor, can anyone say an Amsoil reseller). First off, the majority of Mobil 1 synthetic oils are still a Group IV base which means they are a man-made, polyalphaolefin (PAO) based synthetic. The majority of the M1 Extended Performance (and primarily only the synthetic EP oils) are a Group III base. The Group III means they are hydrocracked or start with a conventional hydrocarbon oil that is chemically altered to form the "synthetic" base. Nearly every synthetic motor oil, whether Group III or IV, will contain some measurable amounts of conventional oil since that is what makes up most of the additive packages added to the base stock. And a Group III oil can still offer excellent protection that's better than a conventional oil and sometimes as good as a Group IV oil (usually depending on the additive package).

You can quickly and easily verify this for yourself by pulling up the MSDS (material safety data sheets) for the different Mobil oils. To start, go the the ExxonMobil MSDS page at this link. Select USA or appropriate country and under the "Product / Trade Name" field enter "5w30", "0w40", etc. and then click the "Search" button and it will come up with a list of oils. The MSDS will show you if it's a man-made/synthetic base or refined/hyrdrocracked. Last I checked the EP's were the only Group III's and the conventional M1 5w30 recommended for the SS Turbo is a fully synthetic, Group IV oil. Mobil also has a good tech hotline and you can call them at 1-800-662-4525 or shoot them an email.

About the only thing I dislike about the M1 5w30 is that it has been shown from used oil analysis to shear down quite a bit towards a 20-weight oil near the end of its service life. I'm not sure what I'll run in the Cobalt yet. I have a large stockpile of M1 0w40, 5w40 Turbo Diesel Truck (which is a rebranded version of their Delvac 1 synthetic), and 0w30 Castrol Syntec (commonly referred to as "German Castrol" because of where it's made). Those are the primary oils I use in my turbocharged vehicles depending on which one, what time of year, etc. Since I live in the desert and it's really hot right now I'm leaning toward the Castrol or M1 0w40 for the Cobalt but will have to try one and then do an analysis to see how well it's working.
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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 05:34 PM
  #30  
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From: Phx. Az
Synthetics will bake too!!! Who ever said it will not in that one post does not know what they're talking about. Anyway, if you've been getting on it over 4500 rpm much just before you park it, let it sit, and RUN to cool-off for about a minute. Same goes for getting on it hard when just starting first time with a cold engine, let it warm up, wait till the engine drops to a normal idle speed.
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Old Aug 3, 2008 | 05:40 PM
  #31  
joeworkstoohard's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, FL
Originally Posted by rat
The water pump is not electric... Perhaps you are thinking of the power steering. The water pump is driven off the timing chain.
he is thinking of the H/E on an SC
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