dreaded p0236 and flutter
#1
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dreaded p0236 and flutter
Yup, this **** is happening again, it happened on Monday, and it went away, it happened again this morning my whole way home from work, and then as soon as I pull in my block the ****** decides to hit full boost.
ANYWAY, the code never came up, but it was pending. It was only boosting 5 psi. I have GMS1 sensors, but I am HP tuned.
I cleaned my map sensors, but I doubt that would be the problem again. I know there is like a 14 page thread on this already, but I don't have time to go through it all.
Anybody else have this problem, and what was the permanent fix to this?
Thank you in advance for all the feedback
ANYWAY, the code never came up, but it was pending. It was only boosting 5 psi. I have GMS1 sensors, but I am HP tuned.
I cleaned my map sensors, but I doubt that would be the problem again. I know there is like a 14 page thread on this already, but I don't have time to go through it all.
Anybody else have this problem, and what was the permanent fix to this?
Thank you in advance for all the feedback
#4
I was having the issue you're describing big time. I ended up finding out that whoever owned it last had some ghetto homemade lower charge pipe, so I replaced that with the stock one. Then I bought a new pigtail connector from CED and replaced the old one on the lower TMAP and wired it all up by crimping using the provided butt connectors. So far it's been great for over a month. There was one instance where it fluttered and I cleaned the sensors (they were visibly oily) and it completely went away. I'll be installing an oil catch can this weekend to prevent them getting oily in the future.
Go check your lower TMAP GMS1 connection. If they're soldered honestly I would cut that off and crimp them. Some people say that soldering is better, but as it has been pointed out in previous threads, crimping is the standard in the aerospace industry, and proper butt connectors seal up with adhesive preventing any water from getting to your connections. Most people (such as myself) discover that their GMS1 issue is due to the wiring to that sensor.
Good luck!
Go check your lower TMAP GMS1 connection. If they're soldered honestly I would cut that off and crimp them. Some people say that soldering is better, but as it has been pointed out in previous threads, crimping is the standard in the aerospace industry, and proper butt connectors seal up with adhesive preventing any water from getting to your connections. Most people (such as myself) discover that their GMS1 issue is due to the wiring to that sensor.
Good luck!
#6
I dealt wih p0236 for a year and a half. it is gone now. it could be these pronlems...
1. if u r hptuned u could have the wrong tune for your 3 bar sensors
2. your wires to the map sensors could be done wrong and need to be soddered
3. you could have a big boost leak
4. you may need a new ecu as that one is faulty.
Good luck
1. if u r hptuned u could have the wrong tune for your 3 bar sensors
2. your wires to the map sensors could be done wrong and need to be soddered
3. you could have a big boost leak
4. you may need a new ecu as that one is faulty.
Good luck
#7
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I dealt wih p0236 for a year and a half. it is gone now. it could be these pronlems...
1. if u r hptuned u could have the wrong tune for your 3 bar sensors
2. your wires to the map sensors could be done wrong and need to be soddered
3. you could have a big boost leak
4. you may need a new ecu as that one is faulty.
Good luck
1. if u r hptuned u could have the wrong tune for your 3 bar sensors
2. your wires to the map sensors could be done wrong and need to be soddered
3. you could have a big boost leak
4. you may need a new ecu as that one is faulty.
Good luck
2. I was told crimping was better for the GMS1 wires, its in another thread on here.
3. I am going to check everything tomorrow with boost leak, all of the couplers and the end tanks for the intercooler
4. I really hope its not the ECU
#10
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Soldering is a horrible idea for this location. Crimping or pigtails is the appropriate solution. Find me one auto, nautical, or aerospace application where they say to only solder a butt joint.
Crimp it with adhesive lined butt connectors, like GM provides, shrink it with heat, and cover it up. You also need to check your o-rings. Most people put the wrong o-rings on. It should be blue, not green. If it's green, it will leak, and you WILL flutter. The proper size o-ring is AN 202, type must be petroleum resistant, like Buna-N. Do not attempt any other size.
Crimp it with adhesive lined butt connectors, like GM provides, shrink it with heat, and cover it up. You also need to check your o-rings. Most people put the wrong o-rings on. It should be blue, not green. If it's green, it will leak, and you WILL flutter. The proper size o-ring is AN 202, type must be petroleum resistant, like Buna-N. Do not attempt any other size.
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I'm having an almost identical problem w/ my HHR SS. Constant P0236 codes and the car's running almost like it's in limp mode. Any easy way to get to the lower TMAP to pull it out + clean it?
Later
Allex
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Allex
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