Just got tuned by Bald Turbo Freak for water/meth. My finished numbers were 338WHP and 346WTQ. My numbers took a hit from compressor surge and unreliable boost control. From my talks with Rick, it seems I can gain alot by just having a very accurate electronic boost controller. Just wondering if anyone has a boost controller on the LNF, what controllers you recommend and installation hints, such as wiring tapping. Thanks

 

That sucks man... sorry to hear about those numbers....

I would just use a good Hallman Manual boost control and you'll be set!

 

I wouldnt be sorry about 338whp at 20psi.
Jared's car needs a boost controller that can vary boost with rpm. Factory boost control cant bypass enough air to maintain steady boost, and as a result it varies from 22 to 20 psi.
We need to run 19psi until we get around 20lbs/min then ramp up to 25-26psi.
Jared'a car is a bit of a freak. It's the oddest one I have come across.
Another option may be to
1) replace the GM solenoid with a higher flowing bypass solenoid
2)Go to an electronic boost controller like an APexi AVC-R, ot BlitZ that has an RPM/speed based map

 

best electronic boost controller is the ams1000 but i doubt you would want to spend the money on it. but for a realistically priced one i like the avc-r.

 

I have a TurboXS manual boost controller spiking 25PSI and holding 22. You'll have to re-tune for it though or you'll be knocking pretty bad. There's definitely a LOT more torque but you won't feel a lot of a difference past 2nd gear.

 

i have the GReddy profec b spec 2, its very very nice. has lots of things to tweak, and it aint too expensive. works great with these things.

 

But can you program it to control boost vs rpm? This is what they need to avoid the "surge island" the k04+ is suffering.

Hiltu, are you going to install a ebc to really push this turbo? It would be awesome to really be able to push the k04+ and to make 360-370 whp without surging.

 

maybe I just don't get this KO4+ most with it are making less power than stock turbo guys?

I mean I know they are higher flowing, but what is keeping the potential for this swap so low!

I have a local company that has a K04+ that I am wanting to test for them, but want to know what the deal is with it.

I mean me personally making 20+ whp over that and 50+wtq over a turbo swapped car.... am I missing something here?

 

I really want to, but im content for now and need to restock up my money pile. My wife is also 5 months pregnant so i have other priorities. If i don't get this done til spring i won't be upset as im having trouble with traction at my current power level so i'll be upgrading those next spring also. I'm a big fan of adequate research before i purchase. Just trying to get my toes wet about EBC's.

 

Sounds like the K04+ wheel needs a surge housing of some sort, if even possible on that little guy. Looking at the inlet side doesnt appear to be any room/meat to try the ole drill some holes trick.

IMO, at that point where we're talking about having to run EBC's, swap covers and all that fun stuff.......... I'd just dump the K04 and be done with it.

Just my uneducated opinion though.

 

Some people cant "dump the KO4"and be done with it. Smog ****'s require stock hardware in alot of states, Although mine isnt one of them.
Cobalt overbooster is a prime example. In cailifornia you need a Carb EO number for anything non-stock. If the turbo appears 100% stock form the outside, noone will bother you.
A anti-surge shroud would be baller, but as you have stated, there is little meat left in the compressor housing to do that. I have considered even cutting a groove to try and allow a tiny bit or recirculation, but decided the potential gain as negligible. clipping the turbine to increase mass flow is better option.

Getting a carb EO number for a garrett is out of the question, simply because this market wont pay what it will cost. $50K amoritized over even 50 kits is still an extra grand a piece. No offence, but lots of folks in this market feel "entitled". Imagine the crying about the cost increase "just for a carb sticker".


And furthermore, I'll put this in bold since I keep having to repeat myself: One car isnt all of them I dunno why Hiltu's car seems to be immune to everything I try. It's pretty ****** weird , pardon my french and is not typical.
Short of tearing the car down looking for an anomoly, all that can be done is make the best power at the boost level it will allow, then crank it up to 25-26psi (past the surge window) and make the big number.



Well boost pressure naturally. Jared's car is making peak power at only 20psi right now. The DAL's there are over 300. The factory boost solenoid wont allow pressure to be commanded to what we are looking for in the higher rev's.

I GARUNTEE your car isnt making +20 and +50 trq at 20 psi.
Maybe with a spike to over 25 and 23 level.

Hell Bring it by, strap it down. I'll prove it to you. I have never had a stock car make more than 220's stock and 260-270 with a tune.

Yes! begin stock-piling diapers now!. You can belive how many the little **** machines go thru! It's like a goddamn mustard explosion every 4 hours.

When spring rolls around, get ahold of me. I'll get you a good deal on a EBC. After using every popluar one out on the market, I still like my AVC-R the best.

 

1Badbluberry's car made similar numbers to mine. He made 342 whp 389 wrtq on a dynojet.

 

imo the AVC-R is tites as far as control goes, but its bit a flashy for my tastes. i run one in my DSM and i just put the display in the dash(like behind the radio) to hide the dam thing.

as far as a better boost solenoid, Rick, I know bosh has a few nice options with better mass flow rates. you'd have to make a jumper for the wiring, but not bad. you could go as far as wiring in a common AEM / what ever aftermarket boost solenoid. the factory low side drivers should have no problem pulsing it.

also, I think i still have a set of the OE injectors(DI) in my desk that i pulled for you a while back. still looking at possibly makeing a higher flow set?

 

I have still been kicking the idea around. Im just worried that a larger nozzle orifice will result in a larger droplet size and actually perform worse. Are they indeed piezio actualted?

The stock driver is for a high Z boost solenoid,as you have stated. I was thinking I could just use a micro timer pigtail and one of these: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/e...kit-p-285.html and make Jared a nice PNP solenoid to try out. I wanna see his car hammer 40+lbs/min at 6500. Max flow come from that wheel at 270kpa.

 

Me thinks we need more fuel pump first then bigger injectors next. Unless we can crank up the pressure the larger nozzle will most likely result in poor fuel atomization and a loss of flame front efficiency.

 

I have never seen DI pressure drop on my dashhawk. Has anyone a log they can share showing DI pressure ramp off up top?

 

No, it does not fall off up according to my logs, but I still think we need a higher volume slightly higher pressure fuel pump first before larger nozzle injectors would be of benefit but heck someone needs to try it first.

 

Baldturbofreak: I always forget there are emissions out there I live in Iowa where you can literally run open downpipe around town and not even get a shrug.

On the fuel system....

Bill Duncan has eluded a few times (without being specific) that the stock injectors are equivelent to ~1000cc and that the high pressure pump can handle an additional 500-800psi. Obviously no HPTuners owner is in a position to test this yet, and I'm not sure what advances if any Trifecta has made on fueling.

If thats true I don't think many of us Cobalt owners would realisticly exceed those figures. Not sure how many of you have ever driven a 450-500whp FWD car, but its an adventure.

More than anything I'd love to fart around with E85, and if those figures are true I should be able to.

Either way the three of us are screwed until HPT determines the LNF is worth putting more time into. I'm sure all 7 people who bought a Chrysler product this year will enjoy the hard work they're putting into it

I'm kinda johnny-come-lately to all this stuff. I've owned the car for 8 months now, and I'm just starting to modify it. I'll be ***** deep in it soon enough just like my other toys.

 

This may be a complicated suggestion to a problem with a simple answer, but could you tune the DAL tables to make 15psi and ramp up to 21-22psi, then use a manual boost controller to add an "offset" for lack of a better word until you get to your 19 and 25-26 respectively? I don't know how reliable it would be, but isn't the DAL table an rpm dependant boost control (on a fixed system anyways)?

I was going to try this on my overboost defeat beta when i get some time and weather...

 

Thats what I will be working on this week. I'll let you know how it works.

 

sub'd!