not sure if this is the same type of problem some of you are talking about, but today my car failed to do it's normal "cat warmup" in the morning which i found odd. then the entire way to work my car was fluttering really bad no matter now much boost i built. couldn't find anything loose or wrong under the hood when i got there. turned it off for a minute, started it up again and everything was completely normal.

I'm also waiting for new map sensors to come in because my car set a code a couple times, but i forget what they said it was so i guess that doesn't help.

It was also surging during idle the other morning, kept building boost and blowing off just sitting there.

 

Just got my wires solder today without any issues with the dealership. they routed the wires away from the AC line, so I don't have to worry about water dripping onto the wires. Everything is running good so far.

 

I'm getting my buddy to do mine, may call the dealership to see what they will do. What codes did you have...I had p0236 code only once as well as p0098 and p0238

 

Just P2261 and P236 only. They found spike activity going on to set off both codes and already solder it and shrink heat wrap it. Had my e-brake fixed also because it didn't felt it was fully engaged. Get some photos up how the wires are set up now with the lower side.

 

I'm curious as to if the soldering of the wires will solve my issue as I haven't threw the p02261 code?

 

I hope nobody takes any offense but SOME owners of high performance cars need a good mechanic in the family. As much as we would all like to be, not everybody is a mechanic. And even some old time mechanics have trouble understanding what goes on inside an engine that produces over two horsepower per cubic inch. Most peoples definitions or descriptions of the noises they hear coming from their engines leave a lot to be desired. Having said all that and after reading everything that's been said here it sounds more likely to me that the majority of the problems being brought up are being caused by the INSTALLATION of accessories and not the accessories themselves. Also people not realizing exactly what's going on in the car or what to EXPECT from their modified car. And before you start hurling expletives at me I am NOT, nor do I profess to be, a mechanic nor do I have any particular expertise in the automotive world. I DO have a lot of practical experience around things mechanical. Even then I find myself checking reference sources on a regular basis online. I guess what I'm really trying to say is don't bash the car for what it's trying to tell you about SOMETHING or SOMEBODY. Kinda like the old story about shooting the messenger. There are more people NOT having problems with their little hotrods than there ARE having problems. This is not to say people are having ZERO equipment related problems. They ARE. But codes and common sense should point arrows towards the trouble areas. Diagnostic testing machines should be FINDING those problems. Crying and wringing the hands won't fix anything. QUALITY diagnosticians and mechanics WILL. Take it to the dealer and let them fix it.

 

that's what I did, took it to the dealer and have them honor the warranty on the GMS1. I'm no pro at soldering, so I let them handle it, which I did. as you can see in my snapshot I posted, I call that professionalism.

we found that DTC code from the HPTuners software, which the P0236 would set that code off to cause the car to sound like a turkey (P2261) gobbling right at you.

 

Well, I'm telling you right now that I have had my car to 4 different dealers and one of which I have been there a dozen times and they still can't find what's wrong.....I'm ******* tired of
driving my car 45 minutes to the dealership (that's just one way) for them to say, there's nothing wrong or the car works fine. You can't blame it on aftermarket parts because in my case, I had all my boltons on the car before I had the stage kit put on and the car worked mint. I then had the gms1 kit put on and the car still worked mint for a few thousand kilometers then all he'll broke loose. This is coming from a guy who thinks a fluttering bpv on the gm stage kit is normal. Maybe you need to go read some more resourses bud!

Well....I'm going to call the dealership tomorrow to see if the will solder the wires under their dime. If not I'll go get my buddy to do it as he's been a mechanic for quite some time now.

 

What is the car doing, or NOT doing, that the dealership can't, or won't see? Can you DEMONSTRATE to them the problem? If you CAN and they still say there's nothing wrong, that's NOT a problem with the car. That's a problem with the DEALER and SHAME on YOU for allowing them to get away with it. I'll stand by my whole post. I'm not calling anybody any names or liars. And I'm not claiming to be any better than anybody else. I WOULD like to see some of you aim your anger at the right people or agencies. If you have a DEMONSTRABLE problem tell them to fix it. If it's NOT demonstrable it MIGHT be in your head.

 

The dealer knows there is a problem....they drove the car when the kit was first put in, and the drive the car after the code was threw and they sai it did feel sluggish but they claim they have looked at everything but can't figure it out. IMO the codes should be enough for them to diagnose these issues.

 

Dealer mechanics will just blame it on the aftermarket parts and turn their noses up.

 

They won't because I had them write down everything that was done to the car before the kit way put on. The know the parts aren't this issue.... All they have to do is pressure test the system and they will see that it's not the parts.

 

well mine was simple, I explained the causes with the GMS1 wiring issue, showed them the codes off my phone pic with the HPTuners, mention the codes from forums like SKY, including CobaltSS.net about the issue with the code P2261 and P0236 my service advisor said, "We will solder them to make you happy," the mechanic later said, "This does make sense". "done". They were very cooperative with me and listen to me.

 

Did you tell them that's NOT AN ACCEPTABLE ANSWER? In CAPITAL LETTERS? Compose a letter to GM. A polite, short, to the point description of the problem and a summary of what the dealer has done for/to you. Also state that you are ready for legal action if it becomes necessary. Take it, with a stamped, addressed envelope to the dealership. Give the letter to the service MANAGER and wait for him to read it then ask for it back. Also ask for copies of all your cars service records. Put it into the envelope as you're leaving and politely state it's out of your hands now as you walk away. Sometimes a little drama helps. Sometimes not. But at some point everything is worth a try. Do the same thing with every dealership you've had the car at. You're in a better position if the car is still under warrantee but even if it's not GM has an obligation to maintaining the serviceability of its products. Tell them also about the possible safety aspects of your problems. No dealership is going to go out of their way to make a customer happy that is afraid to open their mouth. On the other hand they're not going to help somebody that does nothing but bad mouth them. If you worrk with THEM, most dealers will work with YOU. They're all in business to make money. Whether it's warrantee or paid by the customer, they're not making any if they're not fixing anything. These tactics have always worked for me. But then I've always done most of my own work relying on the dealer for warrantee issues only, which pisses them off no end. Good luck. Just don't let them get away with what they're getting away with.

If this is all on YOUR dime another option would be to ask somebody like Vince at Trifecta if there is any way he can help you diagnose your problems. Even if you had to buy a data cable and send a log to Vince it might be worth the expense. Just a thought.

Good luck anyway.

 

• Problem : This morning, I had the same 5 psi problem even though yesterday the car ran fine.
  
• Solution : I pulled into a school parking lot and jiggled the lower TMAP sensor wires in the dark. No problems the rest of the way in !
  
• Reward : I have seen this FWD Celica w/ TRD stickers, a fart pipe, and gauges several times now. Ironically, the first day was when I could not get above 5 psi. Well, this morning he was wondering how the hell a 4 door Cobalt waxed him.
  
• The Unknown: The stealer that installed my GMS1 ( recommended by GM ) is the same one that could not find any of my problems last time, but could fix the sterring even if I did not ask them to ! I wonder if I can get those azzclowns to not give me flak about soldering - what would be nice would be a TSB , or a write up by Bill Duncan explaining how this will fix things.
  

We shall see.

Britt

 

I've had gms1 for apprx. 4k miles no problems. Installed at McKinney Chevrolet in Gastonia,NC. I think the tech had an ss/sc but was unfamiliar with the LNF.
Only issue that I'm concerned about is sometimes when NLS 2nd it'll breakup for a second before accelerating.

 

My stock 2009 GMS1 cobalt just died tonight. Went into limp mode i guess, cannot boost over 4 psi. Check engine is on.

**** this car seriously, this is like the 948594854 problem i have had with it in 6 months.

I'll have to lose time going to the dealer again.

And i am still waiting for a new turbo from GM (and i have been waiting for almost 1 month and a half). What a bunch of crooks...

 

So is your turbo gone? Why do you have a new one on order?

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-10-ss-turbocharged-general-discussion-152/new-turbo-way-219445/

See my thread.

In resume, went for 'routine' warranty problems;

They told me my turbo was defective and a new one was on the way. Had no problem with my turbo or whatever until today.

But i'm guessing it's not related, must be some kind of wiring GMS1 issue like everyone is having. They are supposed to change my turbo in the next week so i'll tell them about these issues (check engine and no boost).

We'll see if everything is better after they install my new turbo.

If everything is not working flawlessly after, this car is going on sale. It's the most ridiculously unreliable car i ever had. And i had a bunch of cars...

 

My mods = GMS1, TWM sts, retro fit HIDs.

My car is in 5lbs mode 60% of the time I start the car.

A little backstory: Jupiter Chevrolet (near my house) did a recall/TSB on the charge air piping back in mid 2009. Apparently they didn't do it right and broke a clamp on the charge pipe going above the engine (didn't notice for a LONG time). I had GMS1 installed at Stonebriar Chevrolet (20 miles away) on Black Friday 2009, because Jupiter Chevy told me it would void my warranty and I met a guy who had the kit installed with success at Stonebriar Chevy. A couple of months later, my turbo blew (1st/original turbo). Stonebriar Chevy installed a new turbo (2nd turbo) under warranty. First day with the new turbo and it's making this rattling noise. I live with it for a few weeks before it starts going in and out of 5lbs mode, I finally take it back to Stonebriar and they tell me the bearings are failing so they order me another new turbo (3rd turbo). This turbo pulls GREAT with no odd noises... for the first few months. The car starts going in and out of 5lbs mode again randomly. Then the rattling returns. At this point I noticed that my charge piping was really really loose. I have Stonebriar take a look at the charge piping. They order all new charge pipes (guessing topside only, paperwork didn't specify). Rattling "bearings" get worse and worse and the car is still going in and out of 5lbs mode randomly. Took it in today for the rattling and 5lbs problem. They're ordering another new turbo (4th turbo) and also a new info button for the steering wheel since mine is cutting out randomly. I don't think this new turbo will fix the problem so I guess I'll have to check the sensors/wiring/boss myself. Anybody have pics of what it's supposed to look like?

PS - sorry this is so freaking long.

 

Well, soon heading into the dealer to get the wires soldered. If this doesn't work then I know I have a vac/ boost leak somewheres other than the charge pipes. I'm praying that it's the wires.

 

Something else is wrong... you shouldnt be killing turbos that quickly. Are there oiling issues with your return/feed lines to the turbo? the K04 is fairly reliable... its not a mitsu turbo

 

Well, I just got back from the dealership where they soldered the connections to the sensors and it still doesn't work any different. Car still seems laggy....I'm going to see if my local shop will data log me and I'm gonna send it to term.

 

Thats because the crimp'n'seal connectors arent the problem, so soldering the wires the wires cant be the cure

 

Do you have any suggestions as to what could be wrong. The car isn't running 100% like it should.