gotcha, make a cheap ass boost leak tester and see if u can find any other leaks may as well be sure you have sealed all the leaks.

 

here is the pic, I never saw that, but that pisses me off.



need to get a 10mm deep socket to get the t-clamps off with, I'm not using a 10mm open wrench again.

 

sounds like everyoen has had install errors...

 

Turbo boot isn't install problem.

Damn good find! I used to have those type problems on my Porsche 944T!
How much boost are you running again? Also, have you messed with that boot in any way before?

 

no the dealer was the one who touched it, they must have ran a flat tip across of it trying to get the t-bolt clamp off,missed, and hit the coupler. I'm pushing 23 psi maxed with GMS1 when I added the catless DP. I guess the computer found out it had a boost leak and started to kick into limp mode. It happend the same way when I had my Hahn Intake and Injen CP before the catless was on. The dealer found boost leak on the Injen and Hahn. So I decided to replace the regular clamps with t-bolt clamps on the upper side.

 

sounds like boost leaks to me...

 

well I redone my CP setup, so my lower piece was wiggling little loose,luckly my pipe didn't blow off, so retighten it, and put my Injen Coupers back on. So, I hope to pray to God it won't decide to go LIMP on me again. I done a cat scan at Advance Auto Parts and they traced nothing at the moment before I redone my CP.

 

Is that the STOCK boot/coupler or was that boot provided by the Charge pipe manufacturer? I looked at my stock set up and it's completly different with coupler covered with plastic covers. My mantra..leave this **** alone..unless you know what the F$$K your're getting into. Not knocking people here do this type of thing, but it's not for me. If I can get a car with the performance I now have (see my *images link* for dyno) without these *goodies* bolted on...I'm a happy camper. I sure as hell don't want to go through the SH$$T your'e going through.

Basically, if you're adding these mods...you better keep on top of things. If you're willing to do that, then perhaps it's OK. Not knocking the mods, just want to be clear on that.

 

that's from an aftermarket coupler, the one I got from siliconintakes failed me, so I got the Injen couplers back on. Lastly reseted the battery, drove a couple of times, and now I'm leaving it be for now. I swear to God my supercharged model had zero issues, other than a power steering went out and a timing tensioner no biggie compare to what I'm going through. I'm giving this car another 2 days not to go into LIMP mode again. Everytime I go past 2 days either LIMP mode or misfiring, backfiring, and "hello I want to go kill myself in the middle of traffic." I swear I'm giving this thing one more try, then my next plan is going back to stock and drive on, and keep my TWM STS and the rest will go on classifieds. I never heard anyone who installed a catless DP from ZZP with GMS1 having issues, and I'm seem to be the only one right now.

 

So that's an *INJEN COUPLER*? Maybe it's not as good as stock one..prone to cracking etc?
I can Guarantee you that ANY boost leak will cause you grief..even that little crack.
I would do what you say..put ALL stock stuff back in (including couplers, charge pipes intake) and see what happens. Just my take.

 

sorry man got it backwards, that was the siliconintakes.com coupler on that photo. I had the Injen couplers with the regular clamps before and the lower piece had 4" Vibrant coupler with two t-bolt clamps to prevent it from blowing off the whole time. I bought 2 new couplers and couple of t-bolt clamps so it won't happen again with boost leaks. This time I have the two Injen couplers with the t-bolt clamps, so will see what will happen in the next two days I think my car was running better with the GMS1, KN drop filer, and the TWM STS for 4500 miles before the Injen CP, ZZP DP, and the Hahn came along. I should have left it like that before all this mess happend. But, I wouldn't bash ZZP DP being an issue. So this should have been my setup from beginning with GMS1, KN drop in filter, TWM STS, and ZZP catless DP.

 

Can't blame the charge pipes in my case.....even if I put my stock one back on, it still does the same thing....unless it's the lower one.... But I believe my issue is with the gm stage kit itself.

 

my problem started when I put on the 3" catless DP last week. Every 2 days it will go into limp mode. the first two times my car misfires, backfires, and wants to kill itself. Dirty MAF was the issue. Then today my car just kicked into limp mode after 2 days, I turned my car off and back on limp mode gone. that's when I had to redue my Injen CP, tighten all the couplers and got rid of the ones from siliconintakes.com. There is no way I got leaks from the DP to cause an issue, I torque that beast on, unless someone has a similar issue.

 

True story

You're posts are making me laugh my ass off PT

 

I installed mine on my own. Be careful to only follow the cobalt directions, not the solstice sky diagrams. I have a cia catless downpipe and injen charge pipe. No flutter/problems to speak of what so ever. Catless for 13k miles, chargepipe for 15k miles, and have only had the stage one for about 6k miles. I never boost the car til 190 degrees, and always let it do its high idle warm up.

 

I got a split stock CP. Right along the seam anyone else?
I did the wiring myself, used the stock plug on the bottom sensor by taking stock sensor apart and soldering wires into it. Top one I spliced in. Dealer did the flash.

 

Well, over vacation I had a good chance to look things over. I put new plugs in, checked all wiring, did a boost leak test, got my intercooler welded up and reinstalled, repositioned and tightened the clamps for the charge piping and still no fix....I don't understand it....I haven't gotten any codes yet but the power is very unpredictable. What I mean by this is sometime when you go wot, the car pulls decent and other times it seems like it bogging.....I also cleaned the maf, put the stock filter in, and made sure everything is tight. The only thing I can think of is that the gm stage tune hates my car. I'm gonna get the trifecta tune to see if it will make a difference. I'm gonna see if I can get a data log with hp tuners to send to term so he can try to diagnose what's happening.

 

I have been having problems with my stg 1 car also there's a thread about it, anyways i had the car at the dealer for the problem and what they finally came up with was that the stage 1 sensors need to be soldered instead of butt-connected. So far "knock on wood" the car hasn't acted up. Try this or mention it to your dealer and have them do it.

 

ford says I paid a little extra (3.0 hours as opposed to 2.0) to have my kit installed correctly by a 1st class mechanic and have had no problems thus far. The mechanic told me the electrical connectors in the stock kit are not very good quality so he replaced them with top quality stuff. In addition, the aforementioned MAP sensor trim job needs to be done like it says in the instructions. If it doesn't fit flush it could cause a random disconnection.
Good luck solving your problems.

turboss09 got it right. That is the same thing they told me and I (knock on wood) haven't had any problems so far.

turboss09 got it right. That is the same thing they told me. I had my electrical connectors soldered from the begining and haven't had any problems from day one.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-10-ss-turbocharged-general-discussion-152/soooo-pissed-so-only-certain-dealerships-can-mess-gms1-local-has-no-clue-221387/

and here is my issue with the GMS1


*crazy boosting, MAP sensor code, stuttering, hesitating, etc

 

Mine has a flutter when I rev up the car and when it blows off at boost it sounds like a bird in heat, I have hesitation in 4th an 5th gear at times, I have hesitation at the begining of first gear and my car doesn't pull as hard as it did when I got the kit installed. So far I cleaned the maf, installed new stock plugs, did a full 25psi boost leak test, made sure all vacuum lines were connected, made sure the
sensors were tightly in place, tightened up all clamps to the cp and tightened up the intake, put stock filter in. The only thing I haven't done was solder the connections and I'm getting my buddy to do that next week. He's also go a handheld mechine that can read fuel trims and hopefully read
all the sensors voltage. Right off what should my fuel trims be at and at what point should they be measured? At full boost, reving the car or idling?

Also if my car starts to wheelhop when the roads are wet with the traction control off and esc off, the car will cut out. Could this be a sign of bad wiring?

 

Wheel hop is not a wiring issue.

Your flutter could be related the the sensor on the bottom charge piping. There is a boss that needs to be trimmed and a lot of times is not done correctly by the dealer.

 

if he did a full 25psi boost leak test that sensor issue would have been found for sure. I say hes on the right path with soldering up the connections and taking it from there...

 

taking my whipp to the dealership and have them solder my wiring connections so I can be golden tomorrow morning. damn this issue needs to be a recall to all who have GMS1 installed. I'm getting this thing fix so I don't see my whipp going into LIMP mode anymore. all my boltons and vacuum lines have no signs of leaks.

 

i haven't had an issue with my GMS1 yet all my connections are soldered... i know 2 others that were installed at the same dealer where mine was done both have 0 issues to date. Must be something to do with those crappy splices given with the kit...