I suppose you could test the tank with an old fashion vacuum pump and see if it hold vacuum or leaks down.

 

I have to agree having a 98Trans Am with a ms3 cam and a stall, full suspension and full bolt ons with HP tune. Runs great 99% of the time but if I left it.sit too long the stall will act up till I get 10 or 15 miles on it and go though a lot of 02's. Never had a issue before the cam and stall. More you mode means the more issues that come up. I drove the car too hard I guess and broke the driver strut mount and bent the strut. Just fix things when they break, heavily modded cars are great as long as you have a backup car for when things occasionally go bad.
My Cobalt only has a k&n Sri on it with no issues but the injen kept throwing codes. These computers seem much.less tolerant to mods than the old.on in my LS1 that loves the mods most of the time. Build a car that is fun, fast, and reliable but keep it as simple as possible to keep from having issues. I was going to get the gms1 kit but now thinking a trifecta tune since that vince guy says if.you reflash before.going.to.the dealer they can't tell it was tuned.

 

^^^ very true. On a side note, you can buy the GMS1 sensors and pigtails at performanceautowerks for 80 bucks and install them yourself. Then get the trifecta tune if youd like and you can have dual tune with one side being the stock gms1 daily driven tune and then with a press of a button you can switch to the powertune side of things for some fun. I myself, kept going through stock MAP sensors and thats why I upgraded to the GMS1 sensors. Havent had any issues since.

 

I had the same issue with low boost, random engine codes, and backfiring. Its been to the dealership at least a dozen times, and I had to deal with all the typical "tuning, aftermarket, abuse, not knowing how to drive" accusations. I switched dealerships and now its being looked again, but my car is stored in winter, so I need to wait until the snow melts for the verdict on whats going on. I'm not allowed to touch anything to keep factory warranty, but I'm pretty sure my cat will be junk from running rich and lean from this issue. It may be something simple, like wiring, but to keep warranty, I can't fix it myself, and since the first dealership was under investigation for screwing people, I need to have a real dealership fix it so there is proof that they are incompetent.

Was soldering the wires and making sure that tab was removed the only known fixes so far? I will suggest these be done on my car because it was at the shop for a month on and off last year and it needs to be fixed, and I hate driving my Chevy trucks during the summer (13mpg).

 

The best way to keep from having issues seems to be getting the new adapter harnesses from CED.

 

1. What engine codes?
2. Is your TMAP banging off your AC condenser? Have the dealer zip-tie it to your CP to keep it away if it is. So far, and I should knock on wood, the car is running fine this winter and hasn't had a code or boost loss since the valves were all replaced and the TMAP tied to the CP to keep it rocking with the motor/harness but not smashing off the condenser all the time. Also the TMAP and MAP harnesses are now wrapped in conduit to give them some insulation from banging around. The dealer I go to now knows the LNF like the back of their hand I think

 

Been to the dealer at least a dozen times? You have much patience my firend I would've given up by then

 

From Here

My dealer's answer was to hard wire the connectors, meaning they eliminated the connectors and put the OEM wires into the new TMAP connectors.

Have not had a problem since they did that - maybe a year ago now ?

At any rate, I would spring for the connectors if I had to do it again , but they were not offered when I got mine installed.

Britt

 

About that and more than one in the process . Finally found one that refused to give up on the car until they figured it out (both GMS1 issues and the caked to **** valves). They now get all my business

 

so far so good here. odd misfire thats gettin check out soon but cant blame stg kit yet

 

Curious; How much kr does GMS1 have at WOT?

 

0. Why's this even a question?

It's also the only one that likely will NOT knock when on a road course. I can almost guarantee that a typical aftermarket tune will knock like crazy on a road course.

 

I'm pretty sure my gms1 tune knocked. The factory tunes are horrid. I'll try and find the log.

 

Oh yeah, factory tunes developed by engineers with countless hours of research are definitively inferior to tunes developed by backyard tuners...

 

I tend to believe this statement, sarcasm or not.

 

Factory tunes are geared more towards fuel economy and emissions. Are they safer? It depends on who is doing the tuning. Factory tunes are more conservative boost and timing wise but as far as the LNFs stock tune very lean in the midrange at WOT which does foster a lot of knock. GMS1 is 21psi and 14.0 A/F in the midrange with 1* of timing added in over the regular factory tune which makes it even more prone to lots (3-4* of midrange knock).

 

If you bought the stage 1 kit separate you need to replace the O rings the same thing was happening to my car. The o rings that come with it are too small. Call Tom at CED or go on there website they have them in stock. It solved the problem for me.

 

I bought my sensors from the factory and the O rings were a greenish color. They were 2sizes too small. It was giving me a vacuum leak and causing me to go in and out of Limp mode. Do the boost leak test again and check for air coming out of those sensors. Easy fix $1.50

 

Ever since I was flashed with a GMS1 base file, my ESC goes crazy on the least bit of movement....

 

For posterity purposes, the right size o-ring is AN 202. It must be petroleum resistant. I think the ones I ended up getting were buna-n. Viton was too stiff to get around the MAP sensor.

 

Not only what Term said but it's apparent you guys have never seen an STi stock tune or read about completely stock STi motors going boom.

 

If you're in a pinch, the universal o-ring kit from the help section in your local auto parts store has one o-ring in it thats petroleum resistant and the right size.

 

That's good to know. I may change my lower one while I'm waiting on a new Trans....

 

anyone had backfire, gurgle issue when shifting, like normal 3k 2.5k shifts with 0-5psi? ever since it got warm out its doing this alot and is a bit anoying to me. had mine istalled during winter havent had any CEL's or other issues

 

i had could get back fires/loud pops on command but that when i was cone stock with muffler delete.

i just put my hahn DP on and havent got a back fire yet. just alot of gurgling from the exhaust.

i need to get a interceptor.