Flywheel Question
02-13-2010, 06:12 PM
#2
Don't know what to tell you, facing the same debate right now. I have a Spec clutch ready to install but if I use the stock flywheel the holes for the dowel pins in the stocker need to be drilled out. Local shop that I found willing to install the clutch doesn't want any part of that as they are afraid of complications. Thinking about buying the lightweight flywheel to match once I get a response from Spec on the right one.
Still waiting on my new TO bearing ass'y to ship, so I have some time.
I'm leaning towards the lightweight flywheel so I can get it done locally around here. I'd do it myself but I think it's more than I can handle.
Still waiting on my new TO bearing ass'y to ship, so I have some time.
I'm leaning towards the lightweight flywheel so I can get it done locally around here. I'd do it myself but I think it's more than I can handle.
02-13-2010, 08:11 PM
#7
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Not an LNF but my Eclipse had a 9lb fidanza in it and it hurt low end slightly but the car loved to rev and felt so much more willing at any speed to accelerate. Idle and cruising was stock like. I loved it and its going back in with the next clutch (mitsubishi took it out and wouldnt warranty their clutch with it so a stocker went in...)
02-14-2010, 12:47 AM
#10
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Personally.... I kept the stocker. Didn't bother resurfacing mine since the car had 3400 miles on it at the time of swap. I've owned a million lightweight (both lightened stockers and aluminum) and I think its mostly placebo on a street car.
02-14-2010, 05:17 AM
#11
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The vehicle is easier to kill from a stop it requires a bit more throttle and clutch control but nothing bad usually even when going with a massively lighter flywheel.
when I had the fidanza in my eclipse if you didnt know the car it would catch people off guard. It made it more difficult for friends who werent into cars to be able to drive it.
So like I said you either have never had a truly lightweight flywheel or are totally numb to your vehicle.
02-14-2010, 03:50 PM
#13
Former Vendor
If you have more traction than power, a heavy flwheel can help you launch harder. More rotating mass will store more energy. It will also make your shifts hit harder for the same reason. Since most turbo Cobalts easily lose traction off the line and the transmissions are not bulletproof, I prefer to run a light-weight flywheel. Side effects to the light flywheel include less engine speed stability, which make the idle a little more rough or inconsistent. Taking off requires more throttle initially as already pointed out. Downshifting is not as effective to slow the car down because the engine changes speeds much quicker. All in all, it is just personal preference.
02-14-2010, 03:53 PM
#14
If you have more traction than power, a heavy flwheel can help you launch harder. More rotating mass will store more energy. It will also make your shifts hit harder for the same reason. Since most turbo Cobalts easily lose traction off the line and the transmissions are not bulletproof, I prefer to run a light-weight flywheel. Side effects to the light flywheel include less engine speed stability, which make the idle a little more rough or inconsistent. Taking off requires more throttle initially as already pointed out. Downshifting is not as effective to slow the car down because the engine changes speeds much quicker. All in all, it is just personal preference.
02-14-2010, 08:25 PM
#15
Former Vendor
Yes, we run Fidanza aluminum flywheels- https://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt...=990&catid=146
02-14-2010, 08:55 PM
#16
Senior Member
First of all, I'm surprised someone even replied to me on this site!
I've had Fidanza's in my old 1995 Mustang GT (SPEC actually on it), 2G FWD, AWD and Toyota MR2. Later on the 2G AWD I switched to an ACT light steel flywheel. After that one I went with one of the RRE lightened stockers. After that I parted it out and cut it up with a sawzall, but thats another story. You are right, it was very easy to stall the Mustang in particular after installing.
The MR2 Fidanza particularly pissed me off because they sent a batch of them out with ring gear issues. Nothing like GRRIIIIIIIIND on most starts. That son bitch came back out really fast.
You may very well be right, I might be numb to my cars ... but in the end I felt the money I spent on them didn't seem.... well spent. My ET's were the same before/after and I'm a shitty driver anyway. Putting damn near $1100 of clutch and flywheel into my econoshitbox Cobalt just wasn't going to happen hehe. If theres one quality my car doesnt need.. its to be able to rev faster. This thing already plasters it on the highway in 3rd.
Those flywheels I bought were mostly one of those mods I did when I was out of mods to do, if you know what I mean.
I've had Fidanza's in my old 1995 Mustang GT (SPEC actually on it), 2G FWD, AWD and Toyota MR2. Later on the 2G AWD I switched to an ACT light steel flywheel. After that one I went with one of the RRE lightened stockers. After that I parted it out and cut it up with a sawzall, but thats another story. You are right, it was very easy to stall the Mustang in particular after installing.
The MR2 Fidanza particularly pissed me off because they sent a batch of them out with ring gear issues. Nothing like GRRIIIIIIIIND on most starts. That son bitch came back out really fast.
You may very well be right, I might be numb to my cars ... but in the end I felt the money I spent on them didn't seem.... well spent. My ET's were the same before/after and I'm a shitty driver anyway. Putting damn near $1100 of clutch and flywheel into my econoshitbox Cobalt just wasn't going to happen hehe. If theres one quality my car doesnt need.. its to be able to rev faster. This thing already plasters it on the highway in 3rd.
Those flywheels I bought were mostly one of those mods I did when I was out of mods to do, if you know what I mean.
Depends on the weight of the flywheel and the clutch used. But anytime you remove rotational mass it will free up horsepower. However it will also cause the engine to accelerate and decelerate quicker. So if you think its a placebo affect then you were either running heavier aluminum flywheels or have never actually ran an aluminum flywheel. Because trust me there is a large difference.
The vehicle is easier to kill from a stop it requires a bit more throttle and clutch control but nothing bad usually even when going with a massively lighter flywheel.
when I had the fidanza in my eclipse if you didnt know the car it would catch people off guard. It made it more difficult for friends who werent into cars to be able to drive it.
So like I said you either have never had a truly lightweight flywheel or are totally numb to your vehicle.
The vehicle is easier to kill from a stop it requires a bit more throttle and clutch control but nothing bad usually even when going with a massively lighter flywheel.
when I had the fidanza in my eclipse if you didnt know the car it would catch people off guard. It made it more difficult for friends who werent into cars to be able to drive it.
So like I said you either have never had a truly lightweight flywheel or are totally numb to your vehicle.
02-16-2010, 01:43 PM
#17
Yes, we run Fidanza aluminum flywheels- https://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt...=990&catid=146
02-16-2010, 02:17 PM
#18
People generally badrap Clutchmasters, The SPEC seem to have a better rep, some prefer Exedy.
I went with the Spec stage 2+ and lightweight flywheel since it's a DD and I didn't want to do the stop & go traffic on the 3+ since the 2+ has enough holding power from Specs specs.
I'm old & my leg gets tired. lol.
If you keep the stock flywheel with the Spec, be ready to have the dowel pin holes drilled out in it for the new clutch. Between getting the stock flywheel faced & drilled I chose to just replace it with the mate to the clutch. A local shop wasn't too keen on getting the flywheel work done, too many places to screw it up I suppose.
Just a personal choice over paying a machinist I don't know to do the work on the stocker. You pay your $$$ and take your chances no matter what.
I went with the Spec stage 2+ and lightweight flywheel since it's a DD and I didn't want to do the stop & go traffic on the 3+ since the 2+ has enough holding power from Specs specs.
I'm old & my leg gets tired. lol.If you keep the stock flywheel with the Spec, be ready to have the dowel pin holes drilled out in it for the new clutch. Between getting the stock flywheel faced & drilled I chose to just replace it with the mate to the clutch. A local shop wasn't too keen on getting the flywheel work done, too many places to screw it up I suppose.
Just a personal choice over paying a machinist I don't know to do the work on the stocker. You pay your $$$ and take your chances no matter what.
02-16-2010, 02:23 PM
#19
People generally badrap Clutchmasters, The SPEC seem to have a better rep, some prefer Exedy.
I went with the Spec stage 2+ and lightweight flywheel since it's a DD and I didn't want to do the stop & go traffic on the 3+ since the 2+ has enough holding power from Specs specs. I'm old & my leg gets tired. lol.
If you keep the stock flywheel with the Spec, be ready to have the dowel pin holes drilled out in it for the new clutch. Between getting the stock flywheel faced & drilled I chose to just replace it with the mate to the clutch. A local shop wasn't too keen on getting the flywheel work done, too many places to screw it up I suppose.
Just a personal choice over paying a machinist I don't know to do the work on the stocker. You pay your $$$ and take your chances no matter what.
I went with the Spec stage 2+ and lightweight flywheel since it's a DD and I didn't want to do the stop & go traffic on the 3+ since the 2+ has enough holding power from Specs specs.
I'm old & my leg gets tired. lol.If you keep the stock flywheel with the Spec, be ready to have the dowel pin holes drilled out in it for the new clutch. Between getting the stock flywheel faced & drilled I chose to just replace it with the mate to the clutch. A local shop wasn't too keen on getting the flywheel work done, too many places to screw it up I suppose.
Just a personal choice over paying a machinist I don't know to do the work on the stocker. You pay your $$$ and take your chances no matter what.
02-16-2010, 07:19 PM
#21
I read a post or two that the Stage 2+ had some separation issues in the past on the disc with the different layers, but I'll let the group know how it works out. 437 ft/lbs rated should be more tq than I need anyway. One side of the disc is puck-ish and the other side is almost solid. Hopefully it'll be chatter free on the daily commute.
I'll snap some pix of the clutch & disc & put them in my gallery, the flywheel isn't here yet.
Sorry for the thread-jack.
I'll snap some pix of the clutch & disc & put them in my gallery, the flywheel isn't here yet.
Sorry for the thread-jack.
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