I might have to send you a picture of it so you can see what I'm talking about. Let's say that TMAP sensor sticks out 2.5". Well my AC compressor is like 1" away from the charge pipe so it won't fit at all. I saw a picture of someone elses sensor installed properly and there was plenty of clearance between their charge pipe and the TMAP sensor. Also, one of the wires coming from that TMAP sensor is partially stripped. I put some electrical tape around it but I suppose it still could cause an issue.

 

I just remembered you need to check and see if the piston is greased. it sticks and makes the flutter if its not lubed

 

I just put it in brand new, and I noticed some red goop on it which I'm assuming is the mobil 1 synthetic grease.

I bought some vacuum hose tonight and tried the vacuum tank delete and it did absolutely nothing, so I feel like it's looking more and more like the GMS1 sensor.

 

what lower charge pipe are you running if the map sensor can't go in right?

 

It is mobile 1 synthetic grease. I cleaned mine like a week after i got it and re-greased it it works a lot better now. i just don't recommend getting grease on the very bottom of the piston because when i put too much grease in mine it seemed to create a light suction and was rather difficult to move the piston by hand.

 

It doesn't look special or anything so I'm assuming it's the stock one. This weekend I want to take off the front bumper and get a closer look at it.

Last night after doing the tank delete I ran into another (potential) issue. when I disconnected the hoses from the solenoid and intake manifold that are going to the vacuum tank, I didn't mark which one was which and I'm afraid when I reinstalled them (after trying the tank delete) I switched them. How can I tell whether or not the correct lines are running to the correct location?

 

 

Well now that's just mean. Who woulda known.

 

Thanks for the pics. I switched them yesterday and it got better for a while, but it came back later, and then went away this morning again lol. I'm going to try to find a way to get it into a dealer to get the GMS1 connections re-done, and investigate the charge pipe out of place thing!

 

Have you pulled the lower MAP yet? If it's covered in oil, that will affect it too. These are the types of issues that are not easily diagnosed by most dealers. You also need to read the codes. Not all codes will throw a MIL, so hook up a reader. Things like P0236 will instantly point you to the lower MAP.

If you're just getting surge under light load conditions, I suspect it is intake and/or lower MAP related. Not the tank or solenoid. Have been through this myself. Now if you hear surge under boost, something more serious is wrong.

 

Also make sure the little nipple on the BPV where the vac hose connects doesnt have grease inside. When i took mine off after running it for a month or 2 i noticed some of the red grease had migrated up to and clogged the port. If could be clogged to a point where it wont register enough vacuum quickly enough to open the bpv.

 

Subd

 

I pulled it a while back. I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like in the first place. The probe at the bottom was orange in color so I'm not sure if that's grease or what it's supposed to be.

Secondly, it's thrown a P0236 like 7 times now.

Thirdly, the flutter comes when I let off the throttle or hit the clutch. I don't really notice anything wrong while accelerating. Since I'm worried about it hurting my car, when it's fluttering I drive VERY slowly not boosting past 0.

 

I'm going to pull it this weekend to switch to the green spring and when I do I'll check that out, but I'm guessing that's not it because I was having this problem before installing the forge bpv.

 

It's the lower MAP. Try cleaning it with MAF cleaner. If that doesn't fix it, rewire it. Proper crimps with adhesive lined butt connectors, and a proper crimper. If you can flex the crimper, it's not proper.

 

When you clean it, are you saying to just clean the connections or also to spray the probe?

 

The connections aren't going to be bad. It's the actual MAP and temp probe. They need to be thoroughly cleaned. The orange part you see is part of the sensor (temp I think).

The o-ring needs to get lubed LIGHTLY with clean engine oil before putting it back in. The probe parts should look dry and clean, not oily.

 

Yeah I made the mistake of re-installing the sensor without oiling it the last time and damaged the o-ring

 

I presume you replaced it with another 202 sized o-ring, right? It's critical that it is a perfect seal.

 

No, I didn't. I tried to order one from CED but their stupid system won't let me place an order for some reason and I don't want to get the wrong type of o-ring. Do you happen to know the material and durometer hardness of the o-ring?