Hey guys! I recently bought a 2010 TC Cobalt SS and had some time to kill so I did a build sheet for my car. Project will take about 4-5 years considering I will wait for warranty to be over before starting any mechanical mods. I have quite some experince in the modding department but Im new with the LNF platform. I dont want anything too crazy and will keep the stock turbo. Let me know what you think, any suggestions will be considered! Thanks in advance!

COBALT SS MODIFICATION SHEET

ENGINE, INTAKE AND INTERCOOLING

• AC DELCO STOCK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUGS
• ZZP LNF UPGRADED INTAKE TUBE
• K&N DROP IN FILTER
• ZZP LNF UPPER INTERCOOLER PIPE
• ZZP LNF SILICONE COUPLERS
• FORGE DIVERTER VALVE

TRANSMISSION AND DRIVETRAIN

• GMPP LSJ CLUTCH UPGRADE
• BPS QUICK STICK SHIFTER

EXHAUST

• ZZP LNF DOWNPIPE
• BORLA MUFFLER

SUSPENSION, BRAKES AND HANDLING

• ZZP STAINLESS BRAKE LINES
• POWELL HARDCORE REAR SWAY BAR
• MOOG FRONT SWAY BAR END LINKS
• MOOG OUTER TIE RODS
• POWELL YY3 LOWERING SPRINGS
• POWELL ROTATED MOUNTS

ELECTRONICS

• HPTUNER PERFORMANCE TUNING

WHEELS AND TIRES

• GM COBALT SS TC STOCK 18” WHEEL (SUMMER) SILVER
• GM COBALT SS SC STOCK 17” WHEEL (WINTER) MATTE BLACK
• FIRESTONE WIDE OVAL 18” TIRES (SUMMER)
• GENERAL ALTIMAX ARTIC 17” TIRES (WINTER)

ACCESSORIES AND APPEARANCE

• ZZP HID KIT
• BLACK HOUSING HEADLIGHTS
• SMOKED TAIL LIGHTS
• YELLOW FOG LIGHT COVERS
• EVO STYLE GUNMETAL FRONT LIP
• TINTED WINDOWS
• SHORTY ANTENNA
• GM COBALT SS HIGH RISE SPOILER

SOUND SYSTEM

• ALPINE IDA-X305 HEAD UNIT
• PIONEER TS-SW2541D SUBWOOFER
• PIONEER GM-5300T AMPLIFIER

 

K&N drop in listed twice.

Get rid of the BOV.

You have GMS1 tune AND dyno tune.

I think the BPS shifter is far better than the hurst.

I wouldn't put an OTTP part on anyone's car.

Every KY clutch equipped car I have ridden in drove like ****. Maybe it was the drivers, but they both seemed to know how to work a clutch pretty well before the KY.

 

Don't make a "build sheet" based off the zzp site. Read. Search. Learn. Make goals. Things you listed have far better alternatives.

 

Not even there intercooler?

 

This

And this

 

lol. some dealers wont warrenty your car even if you only have different rims. i wouldnt bother waiting, if your engine has problems they will probably show when you tune it anyways.

 

You're also missing Powell rotated mounts. And a Powell Hardcore bar instead of the OTTP

 

rotated mounts for sure. stop wheel hop and a multitude of other issues.

 

Why not a forge bpv? I'm considering one too soon.

 

OP check this thread out for your suspension mods, Powell stands behind his products

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/gene...powell-296456/

 

Sox said the BOV not the bpv. iirc Sox hated his stock bpv and had the forge unit

 

Ugh, let me help you out, if you want more help just post or pm me.

don't need gms1 because it sucks and you should use trifecta or hptuners, unless you want to keep warranty for a few years
don't need intercooler because you aren't going big turbo, you could get it for reliabilities sake, but not needed at all
don't need a catback as it is useless and way overpriced, just put on whatever muffler you want or go mufflerless.
don't need engine mount as it does nothing but add vibration
don't want cm springs as they are meh, spend the money on powells or get coils.
don't buy power slot rotors and hawk pads, overpriced and underperforming, stock works way better.
get a powell rear bar, since ottp is a piece of garbage.
TWM or bps for shifter, there are NO other options.

Build looks like a lot of fun. Should keep you busy for years.

Also tc's don't wheel hop unless you are a terrible driver, launching at 2000-2500 rpm my tc only wheel hopped on a terribly prepped track.. mounts more improve shifting and engine/tranny movement than anything.

 

Correct. The stock unit works fine and all, but it's a rubber diaphragm. The last time I stood outside in 5 below weather replacing the rubber diaphragm on a Cat transfer pump was THE last rubber diaphragm for me. I got the Forge BPV as it's all metal and is easily serviceable.

A BOV, as opposed to a BPV, is nothing but a pain in the ass in these cars. A pain to tune, require a BPV blockoff and a MAP relocate and then they still are a pain in the ass to tune for.

 

I would ditch the ky clutch too.... ive seen too many throw out bearing failures with cars equipped with those clutches, they are noisy, drive crappy too.

 

Havent experienced the KY clutch personally, but def like my GMPP and it holds the WR1 (KO4+)power no problem

 

Were I doing it I'd gmpp.

Funny, I was doing 386 tq which is about a middle of the road amount for the LNF, and never slipped my stock clutch and yet some guys doing way less were sliding it.

 

Driver/tune mod there

 

tune. the boobie guy protects your stuff. there are a couple of other guys that are making light switch tunes that just rip your **** up.

 

True story. the boobie guy has my car running well, although I need to contact him for winter tune adjustments

 

I've got him on my z now. Wouldn't think of going elsewhere.

 

Yeah I'm starting to learn how to tune myself from the forums, but havent started making any adjustments on my car I def need a second car and engine I don't mind having to replace if needed

 

I don't have time to learn what he already knows.

 

its the engineer and chemist in me that wants to figure it out. I'll probably only tune my car

 

You have a good idea of what you want to do for the most part.

 

I love how term2 is now just known as the boobie guy.