FYI: Reduced/Eliminated Random KR (DUH! Moment)
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FYI: Reduced/Eliminated Random KR (DUH! Moment)
I just wanted to post this up for all of you as a reminder since I know it's been said before, it was one of those DUH! moments that helped tremendously!
Most of us are aware of the sometimes random and unexplained KR that the LNF is plagued with in the low load areas (normal cruise and start/stop areas). The kind that stayed even if you removed an unacceptable amount of timing in those areas. There was a finding that if you rotate the Knock Sensors to the 9 O'Clock position that that helps. Some saw success, others were still having random KR issues.
I rotated mine before and saw minimal results so I just figured I was fucked lol.
One finding that I found was with the lower charge pipe (cold side). I have a Dejon aftermarket aluminum one and I've always had close tolerances when fitting it up to my ZZP Intercooler and the Intake Mani - They were always off by just a hair when lining up. So I was under my car one day and installed GMS1 sensors and while I was putting it back together I was able to manage a bit more clearance for the charge pipe and I was able to SNUGGLY fit it up to the throttle body.
I went out to data log and tune for my new sensors and low and behold, ZERO KR!
So just sharing my findings: If you're like me and your aftermarket aluminum charge pipes are not all snuggly fitted together and to their respective components (turbo, intercooler, tb) and you see that craptastic KR, then get in there and snug them all together!
Again, was just a DUH! moment for me and it ELIMINATED any of that stupid false KR.
P.S. This goes for your downpipe too! Make sure that **** isn't banging on anything and is fitted properly!
You're Welcome
Most of us are aware of the sometimes random and unexplained KR that the LNF is plagued with in the low load areas (normal cruise and start/stop areas). The kind that stayed even if you removed an unacceptable amount of timing in those areas. There was a finding that if you rotate the Knock Sensors to the 9 O'Clock position that that helps. Some saw success, others were still having random KR issues.
I rotated mine before and saw minimal results so I just figured I was fucked lol.
One finding that I found was with the lower charge pipe (cold side). I have a Dejon aftermarket aluminum one and I've always had close tolerances when fitting it up to my ZZP Intercooler and the Intake Mani - They were always off by just a hair when lining up. So I was under my car one day and installed GMS1 sensors and while I was putting it back together I was able to manage a bit more clearance for the charge pipe and I was able to SNUGGLY fit it up to the throttle body.
I went out to data log and tune for my new sensors and low and behold, ZERO KR!
So just sharing my findings: If you're like me and your aftermarket aluminum charge pipes are not all snuggly fitted together and to their respective components (turbo, intercooler, tb) and you see that craptastic KR, then get in there and snug them all together!
Again, was just a DUH! moment for me and it ELIMINATED any of that stupid false KR.
P.S. This goes for your downpipe too! Make sure that **** isn't banging on anything and is fitted properly!
You're Welcome
False kr is still a timing retard which therefore removes timing . So therefore it can causes hiccups, etc. So it is a problem. Not as bad as a wot but its still a timing retard.... There is two false led, one that doesn't remove timing and one that does. In this case it'll remove timing because of a rattle, or a clink..
Kr that removes timing but isn't caused by engine internals. But by charge pipes and etc isn't technically false but it is lol
Kr that removes timing but isn't caused by engine internals. But by charge pipes and etc isn't technically false but it is lol
False kr doesn't bother much.. but it does a little.... A lot of tuners say its just false kr it doesnt do anything. And honestly it doesn't. To what you can feel most of the time. But a lot of false kr represents vibrations and etc. Which can cause problemos lol
From when i help look at ure logs and tune. you had.kr everywhere..... You got retunes yet? Winter gas dont cause all that kr.... I say ure cat was the issue.
It was crank case pressure cause some dip **** put the check valve on the wrong VC line. The only time i get KR now is tip in(sometimes) but like i said the intake is hitting the engine. At low rpm it has more vibration under load.
It was ****** my **** up! lol
Here check out the thread and what difference it made
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/loun...-after-275180/
Thanks to gmtech for giving me a link to how the breather system works.
Here check out the thread and what difference it made
Thanks to gmtech for giving me a link to how the breather system works.
The two on the back were switched so the one that releases pressure had a check valve on it that flows in not out.
here is a link that explains how it works Why & where you should/shouldn't run an Oil Catch Can (OCC) on an LNF kappa - Pontiac Solstice Forum
here is a link that explains how it works Why & where you should/shouldn't run an Oil Catch Can (OCC) on an LNF kappa - Pontiac Solstice Forum
I had a similar problem a while back with stupid amounts of kr that with the amount of timing that kept needing to be pulled it absolutely had to be false kr. Mine actually ended up coming from the hotside piping though. I found that (in my case at least) the charge pipes were just way too rigid to the intercooler with the couplers I had, which was just generating tons of vibrations back through the engine. I ended up solving my issue with a hump coupler in between the 2 sections from the turbo to the intercooler. After that, so more kr!
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Cptnslo
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