how does the 30psi tune feel compared to a lower boost hp tune? do you spin in 3rd?

 

Why aren't we taking advantage of NLS more? I redline while NLS'ing everytime I doubt the cobalts ability on the car i'm up against. Maybe it's just me coming from a supercharged to turbo car but the lag is killer when you're trying to shift fast.

I notice a big diff when i'm up against another turbo car hitting the 2-3 and then 3-4 NLS, while he lags back every shift. It's a huge selling point on these cars. The launch control I really haven't used much.

 

Good race OP, although I think the guy needs two things. One the driver mod lol ( best free mod available ) and Two needs a re-tune.

Not knocking your win just saying I have both tunes GMS1 and 24 psi Trifecta. I have used both at a local track since i have the dealer cable just to see how they stack each time I go to the track.

My gms1 traps about 103 - 105 ( 105 on the high side on a nice cool night ) while my 22 psi tune ( old tune before retune ) trapped 106 - 108 ( 108 also on high side on nice cool nights ) and my new 24 psi tune traps 109 - 112 ( 112 being my highest trap so far ).

All this is with K/N sri , CIA catted dp, and tune.


Also wanted to point out that not all street tires work best cold, not sure which person said that. Yes you don't need to burn the tires down but on some strreets you must heat them back up if they are down cold ( especially my nittos ). Just a quick spin over ( which you should do anyway at a strip to knock all the crud off ).

Although if your talking about on the street unless your car has sat for a period of time your tires should be well and heated unless you drive like Ms. Daisy in which case you need to do a quick spin over .

 

That was me. At the track, for sure, spin Em to get the crud off.

By cold, I meant normal temp. Not spun to heat up. Most any street compound works best at temps far below the temps racing compounds require for optimum grip. Ever see people spray down street tires with water at the AutoX? There's a reason for that... That's all I was saying.

I guess after rewatching the vid, he really didn't spin that much. Not enough to over heat them I guess. I'll shut up now. Haha!

 

I apologize for my tone but your old Acura should have NO chance against your Cobalt. Is there something wrong with your SS?

 

GMS1 Can definitely trap 107/108 pretty easy...its no auto. So it does take a bit-o-skill.

 

Not saying it can't the fastest trap on a gms1 I believe to date is 110. I was showing a point of reference for the tune increases. I guess after re-watching the video and re-reading since I am at work I see it is just about a quarter mile run. With the shifting the tuned cobalt was doing I guess that is a average out come.

 

ive been thinking so, because it is slow.
i did some research, and it hasnt had the 25k service before i bought it, so i will be doing that along with new plugs since those were not done either, to see if that makes a difference. in the service, they are supposed to reflash the ecu, so hopefully that will get things where it should be. my car only ran a 14.58 @ 99 was best, so yeah its slow, and yes i def. can drive....2.1-2.2 60ft and NLS @6200

 

unless that gms1 was trapping in 4th or has taller tires that's a little hard to believe.

 

Was in 4th, after hitting the search button once I found the thread I remembered when he first posted.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/drag...record-227979/

 

went to 4th ok. I was gonna say I trapped in 3rd and 6500 was around 105 before I was tuned.

 

hope you dont mind me asking, but what is a 25k service, and who are "they"?
OEM Plugs are rated for 100,000mile life.

 

What do you need the stockers for?

 

The only "additional maintenance" listed for the 25K marker is "check fuel system for damage or leaks," and "Inspect exhaust system for loose or damaged components.

 

The more I use it, the more I'm considering shifting closer to the 5700-6000RPM range, the falloff after that point is so harsh that NLSing almost seems pointless to me short of staying out of vacuum. Been experimenting lately out of curiosity (primarily the 2nd -> 3rd) but it's tough when you're going just by the butt dyno .

 

My map sensor blew.

 

Loads more torque. Either the wheels spin a little or the clutch slips a little in 3rd. Its only when I punch it in 3rd gear tho.

 

i do, but me keeping lol, ced has the stg 1's for $74 i think

 

u can NLS even if u dont bring it to redline? does anyone have a dyno sheet of the stage 1?

 

That's sad!

I got mine, but I'm still debating on keeping them. I have all the shizzle that I've been keeping as I mod (stock airbox and such), but its not like I'd swap map's back after jumping to the GMS1....

 

109.4 here but not to good 1/4 mile time

 

No u can't that's the kicker I'll be powershifting instead. If I run it to the gms1 red line I hit almost 0 boost when I go to nls so I question what good it does at that point besides keeping out of vacuum. I know theres a dyno somewhere showing the massive drop off from 5500rpm or so.

For how I drove the car day in and day out I have no issues with the tune mind you. No complaints .

 

Wow, 109mph trap? Thats pretty damn fast

as far as 25k service, it clearly says at my dealership that it included a ecu reflash and it was done again at 75k mile service as well...dunno?

There is a thread on here about spark plugs, and people were saying they were replacing them every 20-30k miles, so i dunno about the 100k on our cars

great info on this thread, keep it coming

 

My gms1 ONLY dyno

 

What gear was that in?