2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Guess what? Its back and worst.

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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Ch1ck3n
From what I've read in every thread, the common theme seems to be GMS1 with bolt-ons. The GMS1 tune was made for stock cobalt SS/tC's, it's a pretty heavy tune too, so any kind of readings that are off are going to cause problems.
IMO put your stock exhaust and intakes on.. It might just do the trick.
I don't know what you mean by that... but if you are meaning aggressive please tell me you are joking.

The GMS1 tune is conservative to say the least... lots of room to improve with it.

Originally Posted by soundjunky
although I might be inclined to agree with you, I'll only go part way;

I tend to differ on the bolded part of your quote...

IMHO there is no way an upgraded headpipe/exhaust can cause any issue that stems on the intake side of things...
THE ONLY part that can cause any maf fluctuations is the intake... PERIOD. Other parts change airflow but all POST MAF it's more MAP changes and DAL changes from d/p's and such but NONE of which require any special tuning for.

Last edited by 1badBlueberrySC; Jun 11, 2010 at 02:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #77  
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I've also stated that my car is tuned and I have the same issues. It only seems to occur at certains times of the day or in different areas of my city. Kind of weird. In most cases it seems to be where humidity could be more than average?

I know it's weird........question to you though 1badBlueberrySC would there be any difference between K&N filter vs a AEM dry flow. I hear our MAF's dont like the oiled filters.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by 1badBlueberrySC
I don't know what you mean by that... but if you are meaning aggressive please tell me you are joking.

The GMS1 tune is conservative to say the least... lots of room to improve with it.



THE ONLY part that can cause any maf fluctuations is the intake... PERIOD. Other parts change airflow but all POST MAF it's more MAP changes and DAL changes from d/p's and such but NONE of which require any special tuning for.

Regardless of the tune's overall aggressiveness, with the "learn down" cobalts posess, the pcm is looking for very specific maf readings. Add in a moderately powerful tune (GMS1) with the learn down feature that gms1 seems to not disable (contrary to claims) and you get a very specific MAF reading it is looking for. If that's not there, the PCM is going to try and correct for the perceived intake problem it is experiencing.

I'm not a mechanic, I work in aids to navigation, so I don't claim to be an expert and I certainly cant argue technicalities. But I'm pretty certain about the fact that it seems to be more than just a coincidence that all the people having problems with a canned tune have custom intakes that the tune does not compensate for.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #79  
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Yes that has been established... but it doesn't matter if it's a canned tune, gms1, or custom tune if you don't tune for the MAF you are going to have issues...

PERIOD

If you really saw all the gms1 did you wouldn't call it aggressive at all, is really all I was getting at there... when you add more airflow ie: boost yes the MAFs discrepencies will be exagerated... but even on a stock tune the MAF can be off when you stick an intake on the car.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 03:35 PM
  #80  
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I have trifecta tune. Mine seems to be more of a my car seems to be suffocating and trying to add in more air problem. Thats the best i can explain it
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:55 AM
  #81  
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Has anyone figured out what the **** this is yet?
Mine is really pissing me off, it's so intermittent it's not even funny. There are no special conditions at all that can dictate when it is going to happen. I've been trying to reproduce the results the past 2 weeks and THOUGHT I had figured out that when the car was warmed up properly (over 5 minutes at idle), the problem went away, WRONG. This morning I let it warm up as usual, and went out, and it is doing it again.

Something interesting though, before my car started doing it this morning, I took it out, and was boosting relatively high after driving around a while. It was hitting 10-12PSI, nowhere near what it is supposed to be spooling to on GMS1, but not the limp mode either (4.6PSI and shudder). It did that all the way to work, then when I started it up again and drove it around, it was in limp mode. Could that mean that when I first took it out it was having a boost leak, then when I turned the car off and back on it realized the boost leak and went into limp mode?

I'm very frustrated with this car and strongly considering selling it. Computers do wonderful things but when you load down a ******* car with sensors that **** their pants if dust enters the system all sorts of **** goes wrong. It seems to me that I need an older car for performance. Or at least a car that had a good budget for performance thoughts when built, which the cobalt, did not.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #82  
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Mines the same way... It Starts acting like **** once it gets warmed up...... I think it's got to do with the sensors because it's just common sense, not everyone that has the stage kit would have a boost leak....period
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:15 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by cobalt9123
Has anyone figured out what the **** this is yet?
Mine is really pissing me off, it's so intermittent it's not even funny. There are no special conditions at all that can dictate when it is going to happen. I've been trying to reproduce the results the past 2 weeks and THOUGHT I had figured out that when the car was warmed up properly (over 5 minutes at idle), the problem went away, WRONG. This morning I let it warm up as usual, and went out, and it is doing it again.

Something interesting though, before my car started doing it this morning, I took it out, and was boosting relatively high after driving around a while. It was hitting 10-12PSI, nowhere near what it is supposed to be spooling to on GMS1, but not the limp mode either (4.6PSI and shudder). It did that all the way to work, then when I started it up again and drove it around, it was in limp mode. Could that mean that when I first took it out it was having a boost leak, then when I turned the car off and back on it realized the boost leak and went into limp mode?

I'm very frustrated with this car and strongly considering selling it. Computers do wonderful things but when you load down a ******* car with sensors that **** their pants if dust enters the system all sorts of **** goes wrong. It seems to me that I need an older car for performance. Or at least a car that had a good budget for performance thoughts when built, which the cobalt, did not.
GMS1 tune installed incorrectly. I litterally went through everything it could possible be. Only time I had this issue is once it got hot. I started to run the AC I would eventually get the problem. It would rain I would get the problem. I finally got a check engine light after going into limp mode once again last night. Turbocharger system performance P0236 was the code. This is an issue of how the GMS1 lower TMAP sensor was installed. If you google that issue you will find lots of guys on the sky forums and redline forums having this issue. It was due to condensation from the AC or anywhere else falling onto the wire and wacking out the tune. Or just the wires moving around due to not being soldered. Best bet is to take it to the dealership and have them fix it.

Would also get the issue in the mornings with it being wet outside.....i mean that's really about it.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #84  
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So checking the connections to the sensors and soldering them would be a good place to start.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:22 AM
  #85  
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Take it to the dealer who installed your kit.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #86  
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I have done that 5 times and they haven't done anything yet....they thought it was the lower map sensor so they ordered one but hasn't came in yet
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 03:03 PM
  #87  
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Everyone who is having this issue, try the boost mod/by pass valve fix. I just did it to mine and it went away completely!!
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:41 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by cobalt9123
Everyone who is having this issue, try the boost mod/by pass valve fix. I just did it to mine and it went away completely!!
If your talking about changing around 3 hoses connected to the sensor on top of the intake manifold then yes the issue is going to go away. If you think the issue is completely gone then you stand incorrect. Your lower map sensor needs to be replaced.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by JTurner.CTN
If your talking about changing around 3 hoses connected to the sensor on top of the intake manifold then yes the issue is going to go away. If you think the issue is completely gone then you stand incorrect. Your lower map sensor needs to be replaced.
You were right, it wasn't gone away completely. But it wasn't my map sensor. After some intensive troubleshooting, I've figured out it IS the K&N oiled filter. Took the filter out, and haven't had the problem a single time sense. And when the K&N was in, after taking the MAF sensor out and cleaning it, the problem went away.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 02:35 PM
  #90  
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Hmmm I will have to try thi as I have the k&n filter in.... How did you clean your maf sensor? Gonna do this on my next day off
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 04:27 PM
  #91  
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well... the ignition key broke again. P.O.S.!. I can't get the key out now. Never dealt with this with my SS/SC (13k) or my SRT-4 (26k) My theory is I believe GM's quality control went to **** in 08-09 with the economy down turn. I have to stall the car and pull the negative battery out of the back trunk to cut it off without killing my battery. Anyone had this issue? My belief is the mechanic who replaced my power steering, probably didn't put the steering lock in correctly, causing my ignition key to jammed up. Gonna take it to the dealer and slap them in the mouth for their word after saying it was fixed. When I got the thing after the first time the ignition was fixed, the key felt kind of difficult putting it in, you sort of had to use a little force.

Last edited by efactor; Jun 20, 2010 at 04:44 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by efactor
well... the ignition key broke again. P.O.S.!. I can't get the key out now. Never dealt with this with my SS/SC (13k) or my SRT-4 (26k) My theory is I believe GM's quality control went to **** in 08-09 with the economy down turn. I have to stall the car and pull the negative battery out of the back trunk. Anyone had this issue? My belief is the mechanic who replaced my power steering, probably didn't put the steering lock in correctly, causing my ignition key to jammed up. Gonna take it to the dealer and slap them in the mouth for their word after saying it was fixed. When I got the thing after the first time the ignition was fixed, the key felt kind of difficult putting it in, you sort of had to use a little force.
subd for vids please
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:34 PM
  #93  
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just let it run 24/7. **** it.


but seriously, that sucks, goodluck.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 06:00 PM
  #94  
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Earl your luck sucks lol. This is why i never went to the dealer to fix power steering. If it aint broke, dont fix it.


And some mod please change the thread title to *back and worse* that worst drives me nuts for some reason
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by cobalt9123
You were right, it wasn't gone away completely. But it wasn't my map sensor. After some intensive troubleshooting, I've figured out it IS the K&N oiled filter. Took the filter out, and haven't had the problem a single time sense. And when the K&N was in, after taking the MAF sensor out and cleaning it, the problem went away.
This is pretty much the issue I've tried to bring up myself in the beginning of this ramble. I think after the plugs come in I'm going to go ahead and drop the AEM in.

Keep in mind though that after removal of the MAF. I don't know why btw, but the car will act normal. Tell us how it runs after a few days.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:59 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by JTurner.CTN
This is pretty much the issue I've tried to bring up myself in the beginning of this ramble. I think after the plugs come in I'm going to go ahead and drop the AEM in.

Keep in mind though that after removal of the MAF. I don't know why btw, but the car will act normal. Tell us how it runs after a few days.
I have some of the MAF Cleaner I bought at AdvanceAuto. How do you clean it properly?
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #97  
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You basically spray it down
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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What is the brand of maf cleaner? I'm gonna try this next weekend or whenever my k&n intake gets here.
So honestly, the only possibilities it could be is a boost leak, bad or dirty maf or bad wiring to map sensors or the sensors it's self.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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If you honestly want to know this issue is not a first. As I was saying all the LNFs with the GMS1 tune have been having this problem. As I said it is more than likely the sensors. When i tear things apart on tuesday when the plugs get here I'm going to remove the electrical tape and if they are butt sensored together I am going to buy a sodering gun and re do everything myself.

Here is the read.

http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f5/p0236-35516/

I also got the P0236 code. Hit the OnStar button and got Turbocharger boost system performance then the next day it was gone.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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I got the same code.... P0236, couldn't boost above 5psi and no power, fluttering like crazy.
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