Guess what? Its back and worst.
From what I've read in every thread, the common theme seems to be GMS1 with bolt-ons. The GMS1 tune was made for stock cobalt SS/tC's, it's a pretty heavy tune too, so any kind of readings that are off are going to cause problems.
IMO put your stock exhaust and intakes on.. It might just do the trick.
IMO put your stock exhaust and intakes on.. It might just do the trick.
The GMS1 tune is conservative to say the least... lots of room to improve with it.
THE ONLY part that can cause any maf fluctuations is the intake... PERIOD. Other parts change airflow but all POST MAF it's more MAP changes and DAL changes from d/p's and such but NONE of which require any special tuning for.
Last edited by 1badBlueberrySC; Jun 11, 2010 at 02:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I've also stated that my car is tuned and I have the same issues. It only seems to occur at certains times of the day or in different areas of my city. Kind of weird. In most cases it seems to be where humidity could be more than average?
I know it's weird........question to you though 1badBlueberrySC would there be any difference between K&N filter vs a AEM dry flow. I hear our MAF's dont like the oiled filters.
I know it's weird........question to you though 1badBlueberrySC would there be any difference between K&N filter vs a AEM dry flow. I hear our MAF's dont like the oiled filters.
I don't know what you mean by that... but if you are meaning aggressive please tell me you are joking.
The GMS1 tune is conservative to say the least... lots of room to improve with it.
THE ONLY part that can cause any maf fluctuations is the intake... PERIOD. Other parts change airflow but all POST MAF it's more MAP changes and DAL changes from d/p's and such but NONE of which require any special tuning for.
The GMS1 tune is conservative to say the least... lots of room to improve with it.
THE ONLY part that can cause any maf fluctuations is the intake... PERIOD. Other parts change airflow but all POST MAF it's more MAP changes and DAL changes from d/p's and such but NONE of which require any special tuning for.
Regardless of the tune's overall aggressiveness, with the "learn down" cobalts posess, the pcm is looking for very specific maf readings. Add in a moderately powerful tune (GMS1) with the learn down feature that gms1 seems to not disable (contrary to claims) and you get a very specific MAF reading it is looking for. If that's not there, the PCM is going to try and correct for the perceived intake problem it is experiencing.
I'm not a mechanic, I work in aids to navigation, so I don't claim to be an expert and I certainly cant argue technicalities. But I'm pretty certain about the fact that it seems to be more than just a coincidence that all the people having problems with a canned tune have custom intakes that the tune does not compensate for.
Yes that has been established... but it doesn't matter if it's a canned tune, gms1, or custom tune if you don't tune for the MAF you are going to have issues...
PERIOD
If you really saw all the gms1 did you wouldn't call it aggressive at all, is really all I was getting at there... when you add more airflow ie: boost yes the MAFs discrepencies will be exagerated... but even on a stock tune the MAF can be off when you stick an intake on the car.
PERIOD
If you really saw all the gms1 did you wouldn't call it aggressive at all, is really all I was getting at there... when you add more airflow ie: boost yes the MAFs discrepencies will be exagerated... but even on a stock tune the MAF can be off when you stick an intake on the car.
Has anyone figured out what the **** this is yet?
Mine is really pissing me off, it's so intermittent it's not even funny. There are no special conditions at all that can dictate when it is going to happen. I've been trying to reproduce the results the past 2 weeks and THOUGHT I had figured out that when the car was warmed up properly (over 5 minutes at idle), the problem went away, WRONG. This morning I let it warm up as usual, and went out, and it is doing it again.
Something interesting though, before my car started doing it this morning, I took it out, and was boosting relatively high after driving around a while. It was hitting 10-12PSI, nowhere near what it is supposed to be spooling to on GMS1, but not the limp mode either (4.6PSI and shudder). It did that all the way to work, then when I started it up again and drove it around, it was in limp mode. Could that mean that when I first took it out it was having a boost leak, then when I turned the car off and back on it realized the boost leak and went into limp mode?
I'm very frustrated with this car and strongly considering selling it. Computers do wonderful things but when you load down a ******* car with sensors that **** their pants if dust enters the system all sorts of **** goes wrong. It seems to me that I need an older car for performance. Or at least a car that had a good budget for performance thoughts when built, which the cobalt, did not.
Mine is really pissing me off, it's so intermittent it's not even funny. There are no special conditions at all that can dictate when it is going to happen. I've been trying to reproduce the results the past 2 weeks and THOUGHT I had figured out that when the car was warmed up properly (over 5 minutes at idle), the problem went away, WRONG. This morning I let it warm up as usual, and went out, and it is doing it again.
Something interesting though, before my car started doing it this morning, I took it out, and was boosting relatively high after driving around a while. It was hitting 10-12PSI, nowhere near what it is supposed to be spooling to on GMS1, but not the limp mode either (4.6PSI and shudder). It did that all the way to work, then when I started it up again and drove it around, it was in limp mode. Could that mean that when I first took it out it was having a boost leak, then when I turned the car off and back on it realized the boost leak and went into limp mode?
I'm very frustrated with this car and strongly considering selling it. Computers do wonderful things but when you load down a ******* car with sensors that **** their pants if dust enters the system all sorts of **** goes wrong. It seems to me that I need an older car for performance. Or at least a car that had a good budget for performance thoughts when built, which the cobalt, did not.
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Mines the same way... It Starts acting like **** once it gets warmed up...... I think it's got to do with the sensors because it's just common sense, not everyone that has the stage kit would have a boost leak....period
Has anyone figured out what the **** this is yet?
Mine is really pissing me off, it's so intermittent it's not even funny. There are no special conditions at all that can dictate when it is going to happen. I've been trying to reproduce the results the past 2 weeks and THOUGHT I had figured out that when the car was warmed up properly (over 5 minutes at idle), the problem went away, WRONG. This morning I let it warm up as usual, and went out, and it is doing it again.
Something interesting though, before my car started doing it this morning, I took it out, and was boosting relatively high after driving around a while. It was hitting 10-12PSI, nowhere near what it is supposed to be spooling to on GMS1, but not the limp mode either (4.6PSI and shudder). It did that all the way to work, then when I started it up again and drove it around, it was in limp mode. Could that mean that when I first took it out it was having a boost leak, then when I turned the car off and back on it realized the boost leak and went into limp mode?
I'm very frustrated with this car and strongly considering selling it. Computers do wonderful things but when you load down a ******* car with sensors that **** their pants if dust enters the system all sorts of **** goes wrong. It seems to me that I need an older car for performance. Or at least a car that had a good budget for performance thoughts when built, which the cobalt, did not.
Mine is really pissing me off, it's so intermittent it's not even funny. There are no special conditions at all that can dictate when it is going to happen. I've been trying to reproduce the results the past 2 weeks and THOUGHT I had figured out that when the car was warmed up properly (over 5 minutes at idle), the problem went away, WRONG. This morning I let it warm up as usual, and went out, and it is doing it again.
Something interesting though, before my car started doing it this morning, I took it out, and was boosting relatively high after driving around a while. It was hitting 10-12PSI, nowhere near what it is supposed to be spooling to on GMS1, but not the limp mode either (4.6PSI and shudder). It did that all the way to work, then when I started it up again and drove it around, it was in limp mode. Could that mean that when I first took it out it was having a boost leak, then when I turned the car off and back on it realized the boost leak and went into limp mode?
I'm very frustrated with this car and strongly considering selling it. Computers do wonderful things but when you load down a ******* car with sensors that **** their pants if dust enters the system all sorts of **** goes wrong. It seems to me that I need an older car for performance. Or at least a car that had a good budget for performance thoughts when built, which the cobalt, did not.
Would also get the issue in the mornings with it being wet outside.....i mean that's really about it.
If your talking about changing around 3 hoses connected to the sensor on top of the intake manifold then yes the issue is going to go away. If you think the issue is completely gone then you stand incorrect. Your lower map sensor needs to be replaced.
You were right, it wasn't gone away completely. But it wasn't my map sensor. After some intensive troubleshooting, I've figured out it IS the K&N oiled filter. Took the filter out, and haven't had the problem a single time sense. And when the K&N was in, after taking the MAF sensor out and cleaning it, the problem went away.
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well... the ignition key broke again. P.O.S.!
. I can't get the key out now. Never dealt with this with my SS/SC (13k) or my SRT-4 (26k) My theory is I believe GM's quality control went to **** in 08-09 with the economy down turn. I have to stall the car and pull the negative battery out of the back trunk to cut it off without killing my battery. Anyone had this issue? My belief is the mechanic who replaced my power steering, probably didn't put the steering lock in correctly, causing my ignition key to jammed up. Gonna take it to the dealer and slap them in the mouth for their word after saying it was fixed. When I got the thing after the first time the ignition was fixed, the key felt kind of difficult putting it in, you sort of had to use a little force.
. I can't get the key out now. Never dealt with this with my SS/SC (13k) or my SRT-4 (26k) My theory is I believe GM's quality control went to **** in 08-09 with the economy down turn. I have to stall the car and pull the negative battery out of the back trunk to cut it off without killing my battery. Anyone had this issue? My belief is the mechanic who replaced my power steering, probably didn't put the steering lock in correctly, causing my ignition key to jammed up. Gonna take it to the dealer and slap them in the mouth for their word after saying it was fixed. When I got the thing after the first time the ignition was fixed, the key felt kind of difficult putting it in, you sort of had to use a little force.
Last edited by efactor; Jun 20, 2010 at 04:44 PM.
well... the ignition key broke again. P.O.S.!
. I can't get the key out now. Never dealt with this with my SS/SC (13k) or my SRT-4 (26k) My theory is I believe GM's quality control went to **** in 08-09 with the economy down turn. I have to stall the car and pull the negative battery out of the back trunk. Anyone had this issue? My belief is the mechanic who replaced my power steering, probably didn't put the steering lock in correctly, causing my ignition key to jammed up. Gonna take it to the dealer and slap them in the mouth for their word after saying it was fixed. When I got the thing after the first time the ignition was fixed, the key felt kind of difficult putting it in, you sort of had to use a little force.
. I can't get the key out now. Never dealt with this with my SS/SC (13k) or my SRT-4 (26k) My theory is I believe GM's quality control went to **** in 08-09 with the economy down turn. I have to stall the car and pull the negative battery out of the back trunk. Anyone had this issue? My belief is the mechanic who replaced my power steering, probably didn't put the steering lock in correctly, causing my ignition key to jammed up. Gonna take it to the dealer and slap them in the mouth for their word after saying it was fixed. When I got the thing after the first time the ignition was fixed, the key felt kind of difficult putting it in, you sort of had to use a little force.
Earl your luck sucks lol. This is why i never went to the dealer to fix power steering. If it aint broke, dont fix it.
And some mod please change the thread title to *back and worse* that worst drives me nuts for some reason
And some mod please change the thread title to *back and worse* that worst drives me nuts for some reason
You were right, it wasn't gone away completely. But it wasn't my map sensor. After some intensive troubleshooting, I've figured out it IS the K&N oiled filter. Took the filter out, and haven't had the problem a single time sense. And when the K&N was in, after taking the MAF sensor out and cleaning it, the problem went away.
Keep in mind though that after removal of the MAF. I don't know why btw, but the car will act normal. Tell us how it runs after a few days.
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This is pretty much the issue I've tried to bring up myself in the beginning of this ramble. I think after the plugs come in I'm going to go ahead and drop the AEM in.
Keep in mind though that after removal of the MAF. I don't know why btw, but the car will act normal. Tell us how it runs after a few days.
Keep in mind though that after removal of the MAF. I don't know why btw, but the car will act normal. Tell us how it runs after a few days.
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What is the brand of maf cleaner? I'm gonna try this next weekend or whenever my k&n intake gets here.
So honestly, the only possibilities it could be is a boost leak, bad or dirty maf or bad wiring to map sensors or the sensors it's self.
So honestly, the only possibilities it could be is a boost leak, bad or dirty maf or bad wiring to map sensors or the sensors it's self.
If you honestly want to know this issue is not a first. As I was saying all the LNFs with the GMS1 tune have been having this problem. As I said it is more than likely the sensors. When i tear things apart on tuesday when the plugs get here I'm going to remove the electrical tape and if they are butt sensored together I am going to buy a sodering gun and re do everything myself.
Here is the read.
http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f5/p0236-35516/
I also got the P0236 code. Hit the OnStar button and got Turbocharger boost system performance then the next day it was gone.
Here is the read.
http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f5/p0236-35516/
I also got the P0236 code. Hit the OnStar button and got Turbocharger boost system performance then the next day it was gone.


