Well check out the read on the link I posted and you can see others had the same problem and what they did about it.

 

Hmmm... Interesting.... But with mine, it doesn't pull like it used to when I first got the kit installed. There is the odd and I mean very odd time that it will pull good..... Do you think that bad wiring would cause that?

 

Yup. My GMS1 is the same. It just doesn't feel the same anymore even sometimes if I hit a bump the car is thrown off.

I would check on your wiring, spark plugs, O2 sensor, and filter. If you can get your hands on the AEM dry flo through it in.

 

Which o2 sensor? Top or bottom? My guess tho is if it's throwing a p0236 code that it's got to do with the wires.

Also, now that you mentioned it, if my car starts to wheel hop the car will die right out. Somtimes the throttle response is just horrible and the car will be do laggy.

 

I'm just saying as preventative maintenance to keep your car from leaning out or running rich. As far as the issue goes I'm sure it is the wires as well.

 

well got my car back now from the dealer. the ignition got replaced for the 2nd time. Another faulty ignition from GM. The broken ignition set off my ESC Services and my ABS when I rehooked the battery back up the morning.

 

So should I just do the wires on the lower map or both.

 

I would actually check on both to see that they are properly connected. If you look at the lower map though as well if you run your AC water will spill down onto the lower sensor.

 

The MAF Cleaner is called "CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner" you'll find at AdvanceAutoParts.

I had the same issue, you probably got a boost leak somewhere that will cause it to go into LIMP mode. Check your CP's.

 

5 days with stock paper filter and haven't had the problem return. It is the K&N filter in my case. Now..someone just needs to make a performance intake that uses paper filters, other than the crap ones that are out now.

 

AEM dry flo

 

That, or the Vararam. The only thing that strays me from the vararam are the tuning issues...

 

Well if you have a HAHN CAI you can just stick a AEM dry flo on the end of it as well instead of the k&n. same with the SRI even though i hear it works fine with the k&n

 

OK .... I didn't read the whole thread but I have one thing that might help.

When the cars will only boost 5PSI the car is more than likely in mechanical boost mode . This happened to my car when the Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator had a bad connection . The connector looked fine but when i moved it the whole Actuator came apart in my hand . All i had to do was put it back together and snap the locking ring in place .....was fine after.




here is a little cut and paste from GM service information

When certain DTCs are set the ECM will limit the amount of available boost pressure. Limiting boost pressure is accomplished by the ECM controlling the TC wastegate actuator solenoid valve and maintaining the duty cycle at 0 percent. This means that the ECM will not actively close the wastegate during greater engine loads. The system at this point is limited to mechanical boost. Mechanical boost means that the wastegate will still move, but the amount of motion is limited by the mechanical properties of the return spring within the diaphragm valve, the pneumatic properties of the actuator, and the physics of the exhaust gas flow in the exhaust system. In this mode of operation the manifold pressure will attain a maximum pressure of 140 kPa.

 

I have only had the code come up once but the majority of the time, my car feels sluggish. Could this be the issue in my case.

 

Ok so here's what I did today.

I drove to the mall and I ran the AC about halfway there. Not to long after running the AC the problem was there. I didn't pop the hood to see if water was dripping on the lines. Watched a movie came back out and the car was fine. It was hot as **** out so any water would have dried.

Took her home and my NGKs were in from MPx. Did the proper gaps to 30 and dropped them in. Took 15-20 minutes.

After that I inspected the lower sensor. It sits directly under one of the AC lines where condensation would leak directly on top of the wires and right inside of the electrical tape where the wiring was spliced in.

With that looking that way I pulled a zip tie out grabbed a hold of the line pulled it upwards and zip tied it to another line wrapped in that black plastic **** so that the TMAP sensor wires are facing straight up and down. Drove it around running the AC and without the AC for about half an hour and had absolutely 0 issues. Not even a sign of one.

I will keep you guys posted if you want pics I can provide. Other than that if the problem comes back I'm just going to have the dealer do there work.

 

Hmmm I'm giving it a good inspection on the weekend and gonna solder the wires and heat shrink them, clean the maf sensor and tape up the wires where they hit the ac. See if that makes a difference.

 

Good deal keep us posted.

 

I also ordered newplugs from ced today.

Also, with the p0236 code, that just has to do with the lower map sensor right? Like a boost leak, bad wire connections or a bad sensor?

 

It can deal with both sensors, but the top one shouldn't have any problem. The code itself is turbocharger boost system. It can appear on any GM turbocharged vehicle. From a look at there other vehicles trucks and cars that have had the issue it seems to be sensor related.

 

****.... It could be almost anything then....

 

Pretty sure it's the sensors

 

Yeah, I can't see it being a boost leak because I have checked everything and tightened everything. Like I said, I'm gonna work on it Sunday and Monday. I pray to god I can fix it. I'm also gonna check the wastegate solenoid and the 3 vacuum hoses that connect to it.

 

So basically, we all have the same problem, with different causes. Now if that isn't a cobalt then I don't know what is.
Day 6 for me, stock intake instead of oiled K&N, still no problems.

 

well to help you guys out,

I had 0236 and 0238.

My problem was the lower sensor harness coming unplugged. With that being said, not sure sure if was the sensor or the giant boost leak that caused those codes.

I'm not very good at the mechanic stuff, but I would start at the turbo and check all piping to the intercooler and all the way to the throttle body.

Make sure all sensors are tightened down and if the dealership can't find a leak they need to rewire the lower sensor.

That's what fixed mine.