This is a really easy install, took less than 30 minutes.


-First, remove the breather line. This is important if you ever want to re-use the stock intake, otherwise the nipple will break off as you mess with removing the air box.

-disconnect the MAF sensor connector but leave the MAF sensor in the old intake tube. This is to protect it from accidental damage or dirt while you do the rest of the steps.

-loosen the worm clamp attaching the intake to the air box, and remove the two bolts holding the air box to the shock tower.

-remove the air box (do not need to remove the air filter or top of the air box)

Now it should look like this:




Next, locate the small bolt head to the worm clamp going to the turbo inlet:




Here is a picture of the tool I used to get the worm clamp off. its a 5/16ths 12 point socket. NOTE - this is not the exact right socket to fit the head of the bolt, I used a 5/16ths 12 point since it was a little more giving and made it easier to get over the head of the worm clamp. This clamp is not super tight so using this socket is fine. The bolt head is the same size as the one on the air box worm clamp.



..and a pic of it on the bolt head of the worm clamp:



Once you have loosened the clamp enough, simply work the intake tube out and remove.

Slide the new intake tube (in the case of this CIA short ram it is a silicone coupler) with the worm clamp already in place, tightened just enough so it doesnt slide back and forth on the coupler. Once in place on the turbo inlet, you can slide the worm clamp forward, over the hump, and position it approx. in the same orientation as the original worm clamp. This allows easiest access to get your ratchet back on the head of the clamp, and tighten just enough so the worm clamp won't slide.

Insert the metal tube into the other end, following the same proceedure for the worm clamp. Once finger tight, work with the alignment of the two peices. You need to be aware of the clearances and be careful around the A/C line. It is soft aluminum and easy to break, also you don't want the intake rubbing on it.





Remove one of the rubber grommets from your original air box. Simply slide the steel rod out of the center and fold it down and out the hole. Then insert it into the hole on the intake, and lightly bolt into place.





Then once everything is lined up correctly, tighten everything down (turbo inlet, air tube clamp, and mounting bolt). Then its just a matter of sliding on the filter, again checking clearances (the filter won't move much if at all, but it is close to the A/C line again) and tightening it down.



Reconnect the breather line, transfer your MAF from the old intake tube to the new one (don't lose the screws! This intake comes with new ones, but if you ever want to go back...) and you are done! Take it for a test drive and enjoy the sound of the new intake..

 

Great how to. I hope you won't mind if I add that you can also use the second nut/washer from the airbox mount UPSIDE DOWN and UNDER the SRI/CAI mounting grommet to gain a little more adjustment for any clearance problems. It worked great for my CAI.

 

Nice write up.

 

is this the CIA short ram?
did anyone ever decide if the short ram was more effective than the full sized CAI

 

Nice write-up. I would like to put a page on my site with this info, as long as you don't mind.

Thanks again.

 

I think Dan mentioned at one time there was a couple HP difference with the CAI being the higher. But a lot of people would rather have the piece of mind that the SRI's filter is higher and not as susceptable to drowning in DEEP water. I guess it's a customer preference trade off kind of thing.

 

When we dyno tested we had the hood open so the gain was the same, 15/15 HP/torque to the wheels.

The cold air will insure air is drawn in from outside so sitting at a light, staging lanes, etc you will maintain colder air. The SRI will perform the same, once you are moving as the amount of air moving through the engine is tremendous and there is no possible way for it to heat up under the hood. But hotter air will be entering the engine while stopped, staging lanes, etc.

I personally prefer the SRI with the filter up "high and dry". But many customers prefer the looks of the cold air system.

 

With an SRI while moving IAT1 is normally about 6-10* above ambient while moving so once the air gets to the IC it is cooled back close to ambient anyway. While sitting at a light or idling for long periods the IAT1s can get as hot as 160 here in Florida. Even at 150-160* IAT1 s the IAT2's were never more than 10* above ambient while sitting still and once moving the IAT1 s come back to within 10* of ambient normally.

 

sub'd for later

 

how hard is it to do to a 2.2 LT Cobalt
and which kit is cheapest since i lost my job i really want this mod on my car!