Most will agree that if your on stock plugs 0.030 to 0.032 is the best.

 

that doesn't sound like vince at all.... and that is a bit too lean

at full ththrottle your lamda should be between .87-.91

 

^I think hes referring to stock mode. Random misfires have been reported before with the LNF. Random knock, not so much. Have you cleaned the maf? Just a thought

 

drivetrain clash = false knock

 

wheel spin and a NLS will show up as knock sometimes too.

 

Are you checking AFR at idle or part throttle? At idle it will hunt around for stoich whick is 14.7. You have to look at it under WOT and see what it's reading .... should be in the mid 12's .... mine is 12.5 -12.6 with Vince"s tune.

 

Under WOT it goes up above 15. It more or less is consistent between 14.5 and 15.5 at idle AND WOT as well as any point between.

 

dyno numbers will mean something to a point. The only thing that you could really use off a dyno sheet to compare cars would b who holds the power the longest. One may have a higher torque spike here or there but a spike 1000 rpms long is not going to win a race.
Now on the other hand most people who buy hptuners are getting it for there own needs and dont do all out drag racing like ZZP or others who have the time and money to build a car with all the newest parts thier shop came out with. Thats why you dont see other people claiming low track numbers, normal people cant keep up with a shop car, and in my occasion my cobalt is my daily driver.
And buying hptuners and making your own tune is nothing like renting a cable from someone and having them do all the work for you. I give anyone major credit at a show or meet if they have a smooth running fast car that they tuned themself, and offer pointers if something isnt right. Anyone can take their car somewhere and have another person tune it or do work to it.

 

lol this thread is great. Any tuner that tells you some amount of knock is acceptable doesn't know what they are doing. Period. You are running 15+ AFRs at WOT? again wow. It's funny the one or two people that actually know what they are doing in this thread got criticized while the stupid runs rampid.

 

He said its likely due to external noise, as for the A/F, I was told the ECM runs it between13.5 and 16.5 through most driving conditions, so I'm not sure why my A/F is not acceptable. WOT in my current driving conditions are not possible, so if I punch it it spins and I can only see split seconds of WOT on my Interceptor. I really cant get on it long enough to get a true representation of it, as I mostly see the value when it runs really lean when I let off the fuel. It's been snowing for three days and its -20C out, so I'm not going to risk checking my live trims at WOT when I have horrible road to do it on. The car has never seen a CEL because of any of this.

I'm not sure why every thread on this site turns into a bunch of guys pretending they know more thany everybody else about everything, but I want to thank the people that did have helpful input for me. I'll be changing plugs, cleaning my MAF and running this tank dry and refilling with 94 octane again. Hopefully this changes it.

For the guys saying no knock is acceptable, are you constantly monitoring it?

 

Yes I'm constantly monitoring with my interceptor.

 

Your amount of knock seems really high, you said you've seen up to 8? And is that when you are completely wide open? Knock is one of the 4 things I am constantly monitoring with my interceptors, and yup I have 0 at all times(except part throttle when it is either freezing, or hot, but not after the car is up to 190 degree operating temperature). I also don't really see more than 5 misfires when randomly driving, I think those are ok as long as they don't trigger a CEL. I've had up to 42 while the car was warming up lol.

 

It's funny how people keep criticizing the tune/tuner when meckel has clearly stated that he is seeing the knock & misfires on his STOCK TUNE which isn't that uncommon for the stock tune.

PS: Meckel what part of AB are you in?

 

I've seen 8* once (shifiting between first and second if I can remember right), 2-3 about 30% of the time and from .1 to 2.9 70% of the time. Those percentages being when I do see knock, which is every other time I drive but most of the time I see zero knock while driving. It usually only occurs when letting the clutch out or letting off the gas (1st and 2nd gear almost exclusively). The misfiring is 100% random, I've seen seven at once a couple of times but the car has never had a CEL for that so I'm not so worried about it.

 

Yeah the lamda needs to be backed down to 88-90. Anything above 93 at WOT is wayyyyyy to lean. You need your AFR between 12.7 and 13.0

 

It is a Trifecta tune, it is just the 'stock' part of the selectable tune when not in competition mode. I dont bother using the real tune in winter, I cant justify it when the condition of the 'roads' here. I'm currently doing some technical training in Edmonton but I live in Cold Lake. What area are you from?

Vince's opinion and concern for my issue has been great, and after him reviewing the logs and having him say its a normally operating LNF and that I'm over analyzing the whole thing, then I have no problem believing him. I just thought I'd add that; a lot of people seem to be knocking him and trifecta in general, I dont see the reason for the hate, especially when I've yet to hear any true horror stories from one of his tunes.

 

This is the stock tune, dont know how it can be changed. For anybody that missed it, I posted my A/F and lambda at idle and normal driving conditions. I'll try to get my WOT reading, but it usually ends up with me gaining and losing traction, so I cant really get a good reading at WOT.

 

this wouldnt happen on a dyno... i bet you could get a good reading at WOT on a dyno... Just sayin.

Funny story, I got passed by a top fuel car on the interstate today, he was doing a street tune too. He was using the interstate to tune it for the big race. Thats how they all do it because I got passed by a nitro funny car not even minutes later on the same stretch. Must be a popular area. I heard the nascar cars were parked on the on ramps waiting for their turn.


In reality, after doing much research and visiting hondatech.com, which is lightyears ahead of almost all car forums, the big boys are all dyno tuned. whether its NA or forced induction... Why? because they can dial in every single cell, hit WOT and run WOT as long as they want and not risk running out of road or hitting someone else. No street tune will ever maximize motor potential.

My car was tuned by, in my opinion, the best personal Ecotec tuner in the US and he works with Vince from trifecta on tuning. Again my opinion but he does things with the Eco's that most cant. My car is on a safety street tune by him knowing id be back sooner than later changing things and there was no point putting massive hours and wasting the dyno shops time tuning a setup that would be changed very soon.

Advantage of street tuning first, THEN dyno tuning, which is the proper order, not vice versa, is it takes less time because you already have a start from the street tune, saves money because it wont take as long on the dyno, and the shop likes it if they are busy you dont tie the dyno up all day long because it takes less pulls to dial the car in. You can hit WOT and not worry about losing traction, printouts to analyze data, not to mention personal safety and safety of the other motorists. A dyno tune will always maximize your motors potential.

 

That was just for the purpose of trying to see what my live readings were. I'm not going to go to a dyno to get that, do some reading before you post. I had the car tuned during the end of summer, when I had traction. I dont know what made you think I was datalogging my car for the purposes of tuning on icy roads.

 

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought or was under the impression that the "stock" tune in the Trifecta selectable tune was really just stock boost levels, and not exactly a 100% stock tune. Is this true? And we get it Vink, you dynotune your N/A sunfire every other day, I must have not read the post in which you declared you're a professional tuner/race car driver and your opinion is above everyone else's.

 

oh i read it. but my car on the street loses traction in WOT in 2nd, 3rd, and sometimes 4th, it didnt on the dyno. hot cold wet dry, doesnt matter. loses traction doing WOT pulls.

Mustang dyno's simulate load on the car.Thats your BEST bet. Does Vince send you a tune in seconds? is he always available?

i my tuner was online to link him to this thread to start laughing at all of it.

Also last I checked, i have yet to find a road with a 120mph speed limit, which is probably around what 4th gear would be WOT. but then again who wants to be safe and legal? thats just dumb.

 

im sorry, i must have magically went 12.8 on stock motor..... its amazing how that happens. also amazing how my car turns from the cavalier it is to a sunfire only in the moonlight...
Car: 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier
R/T ... .160
60' ... 2.083
330 ... 5.580
1/8 ... 8.392
MPH ... 88.53
1000 ... 10.814
1/4 ... 12.862
MPH ... 111.57

 

Here email Ryan, and ask him. ALSO have him look at your tune, he is nice enough to do it for free most times. He works lose with Vince at Trifecta and can help your tune issue.

Ryan,
pnptuning@gmail.com

 

Lol calm down there bro, I don't care enough about cavaliers or sunfires to take the time and study the differences betwee the two, but if it is any consolation, I like cavaliers more. I thought your time in your old sig was 13.8? What all did you do to get the 12.8?

 

installed a boost controller, went from 6.5psi to 13. and had ryan tune it. made 325/285 on stock timing and his safety tune. goes back down next week to be tuned for 20+ psi and aiming for 11.50's while shifting gears

car went 12.6 @ 118 shooting sparks all the way down the track because the clutch was so far gone.