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Okay so I had a little debate with the dealership today because I've noticed they've been charging me for 6L of oil on my past few changes, compared to 5L before on past bills. I remembered reading a thread on here awile ago (posted above) that says the LNF takes 4.7L, so I argued them relentlessly holding my ground at 4.7L, I got various answers that it should be anywherer from 5.3L-5.8L. Further debating and we discovered the GM Book saying 4.7L. They made me drive in and check the oil in the garage, It was reading high on the dipstick and they had to remeasure a few times. They also said it currently had 5.5L in it, I had it changed last friday.

Am I right here or is it over 5L? I'm thinking maybe because when hey changed it last time it was left overnight with them and the oil was cold, compared to today when my engine was at operating temp, driven for 20 minutes beforehand. It's synthetic mobil 1 aswell.

Anyway I've made a deal for $20 per oil change as long as I bring in my own oil/filter. Works out good for everyone. Oh and my headlight is being replaced free of charge too due to water leakage

 

LSJ took 6.5

LNF takes 5

End of thread. Should not be charged for 6 at all.

Oh and $20 labor to change oil seems ridiculous. With **** tools I can do it in 30 minutes in my apartment complex.

I normally change on a lift in 10 minutes. That's some high ass labor.

 

Standard dealer rate 100$/hr.

.4 flat rate time for an oil change

40$ labor. I'd say 20$ with you supplying the oil/filter is about right.

 

Ya they've been screwing u for 1qt each time

 

My bone dry lsj took 7.. and it takes about 6.5 on changes...

 

LSJ takes 6.5 quarts

 

Cool, edited so people won't get confused or upset.

Anyways OP. Show them the book and tell them to check the damn dipstick after 5 qts.

Also you might want to get ACDelco filters so they don't bitch about that.

 

^^^^ this. 5 litres is correct

 

Thanks for the responses. Glad to know 4.7 is right. Wondering if I should drain a bit since they said they put in 5.5L...

And I would do it myself or take it to my old boss's shop where I used to work years ago but I like having a legit oil change with paper record incase warranty issues arrive. Getting it done at the same places w/ paper trail will come in handy. When I was debating I had all my records in a folder, along w/ recipts. Helped my arguement quite a bit.

 

I figure with a good log book and mileage and a good witness I would have no problem proving proper oil change. Although it's so easy to blame directly on dealer if anything happens.

 

to get it to show full on the dip stick with a brand new oil filter completely drained 5.5 is accurate.

I've never gotten the dipstick to show full using under 5 liters period on a flat surface.

Maybe my oils thinner up here .



Go ahead and drain your oil, I would go by what the dip stick tells me , not the book .

Your mechanic is going by what he or she poured into the car to reach the full indicator level.

Like I said I've NEVER gotten it to read completely full using 4.7 liters.

 

Princess why quote me and not the multiple other people saying 4.7-5L...Maybe touch subject elsewhere like when I asked if Oil fluctuates when changing Hot vs cold? I need more info bro.

 

I always purchase the big jug of oil when I change mine. They are 5q. The oil level always shows right at the high end of the dip stick.

 

check you owners manual (in front of them) parts cataglog

5.0 Qts or 4.7L
2.0 with filter

 

LOOOL!! my friend who does oil changes always asks parts guy for a box, which is 6...

and keeps 1 for himself... now has about 2 whole shelves of his toolbox... all bran new oil!

can only pull it off on cars like LNF, and others

 

I know there are like what 5 different motors in cobalts? but I didn't expect to get so much resistance that it is 4.7-5L.

PrincessTurbo I don't know what to think about your previous post it goes against everyone else here

 

the only eco engine in cobalts that has 6.5 capacity is the LSJ it was to conform to EU extended drain interval requirements and therefore needed more oil capacity.
All the other motors are 5.0
I use quarts and litres interchangeably, so makes no nevermind to me.
For racing with a wet sump we fill non s/c to 6 litres. s/c stay the same at 6.5

the pans are different in the interior makeup, lsj to lnf and le5 et al; LE5 is significantly better in slosh control than the LSJ on a road race track.
the overlay looks like this




LSJ in foreground. difference is evident


but the hardcore powell pans for racing are trap door pans.

or dry sump

 

So the stock LNF pans are no good for the track?
And if using stock LNF pan on the track = put in an extra 1 litre?
Confused again...

 

stock lnf pan better than lsj pan for track. overfill 1 litre. trap door pan easy insurance not a lot of money 350 exchange...dry sump 3500

 

Oh boy. Another PRS part to buy!

 

Dealers refuse to listen, I had the same problem when I took my TC in for the first oil change, they put the same amount in as the SC and kept telling me the manual was wrong. I forced them to let the car sit idle in the shop for 30 minutes, check the dipstick and sure enough they grumble "remove 1L that's way too full". Funny, since then no one mistakes the LNF for the LSJ @ that dealer

 

Haha so this has been a problem is happening more then we thought, or maybe it's an Ontario thing eh Permafried :p

And does powell mean if you go to the track THEN put in an extra litre...or if you have this "trap door" thing you could put in the extra?

 

If you buy the trap door pan, I don't think you require the extra litre. If you have the stock LNF pan = add 1 litrre for track use.

 

So why not run that much oil all the time if an extra litre has no negitive effects...

 

Last 2 times I've changed my oil it required a little more than 5 quarts. I think like 5.2? But they didn't charge me extra