DarrenGC

My 2009 LNF is starting to near the end of its lifespan, fuel in the oil and burning of oil, along with a low (120psi) compression figure for cylinder number 2 makes me think it's time for some work.

I live in Canada, so remembering exchange rates, shipping and duties, I see two reasonable routes to take.

Replacing the engine:

There are a couple of scrap yards within driving distance that have LHU motors with sub 50k miles on them out of Buick Regals. They are selling around $1700cad for the full long block without the turbo. This seems to be more economic than paying well over $2500cad for a brand new motor.

Or there's the option of rebuilding my LNF. the car still runs and drives but there is fairly significant oil deposits in my charge pipes and fuel getting into my oil. Compression is low but not significantly enough fot me to think there is catastrophic failure in that cylinder. Those who have rebuilt an Lnf, what parts did you use as far as rings, bearings etc and did you have a machine shop do any work? (Hone cylinders, turn crank etc?).

royce777

iTrader: (29)

I had the to make the same decision. I was able to pick up a full LDK with new turbo and everything for a good price. Difference is that I'm in the US. But it was more logical for me to buy everything brand new and start over.

If you are looking to rebuild, I would put a camera down in the cylinder and take a look at the cylinder walls. You could need a new set of rings at minimum. A new set of pistons and rings would obviously be cheaper. At this point I would do a new timing chain and all that fun stuff.


It honestly all depends on your budget, how long you plan on keeping the car, and how much time you want to put into repairs.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

Im going the new and built engine. Gonna cost alot. Id definitly not rebuild the lnf or get another lnf if i was you. U risk porus block on the lnf. How many kms did ur motor have to be that shot?

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

How does your #2 compression compare to the other cylinders? I think a lot of people see 150 but depends on the tester.

My oil has always had a slight bit of fuel on my lab analysis. From the first sample at 5k miles.

I have also started losing oil do a spark plug tube gasket.

tomj77

iTrader: (2)

I always sae 150 on all cylinders

DarrenGC

155-129-159-154 Were the compression figures. Have not yet looked inside with a borescope, could be coked valves causing the compression as well, however the fuel in the oil and oil in the CPs makes me think otherwise.

I might pick up the used LHU block and go that route, seems like the more logical way than rebuilding the LNF.

Engine had 95k(59k mi) when I purchased it, about 100k(62k mi) when I compression tested it, about 115K(72k mi) now when its going away for the winter (which means I have all winter to figure this out then its crunch time in the spring).

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Compression test depends on your altitude too. Here at 5k feet my LNF was 125 on all 4 cylinders. and another friends was 125 on all cylinders too

I bet you have bad ringland if its that low. try dropping a tiny bit of oil inside and redo the compression test. if the compression is higher the 2nd time, you know its ring/ringland

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

15% drop is only slightly out of spec. Probably still has life left in it if you want to try and clean the valves and do a wet compression test.

I'd save the money and continue running it unless you are getting a ton of fuel in the oil or something.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

agreed. I'd run it and just save up for new parts unless its running like crap.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

^ what he said. I'm guessing that it's not your only vehicle as you say it's getting put up for the winter. If it still drives good, you can set money back to do it right. No one will probably want your old motor so I would just drive it till it blows.

DarrenGC

the oil in the charge piping is causing tmap sensor issues. it's drivable but every couple thousand km the map sensor needs cleaning or replacing.

I may see if I can get another summer out of it and just stock up on spare tmap sensors.

nathan112i

LNF PCV Valve 12589440
Ecotec Intake Gasket LNF 12589366
might solve your oil in the charge pipe issue

DarrenGC

Thanks!

I will add that to my list for spring. Im going to replace the intercooler, find out where im still leaking a bit of boost from (probably buy longer silicone connectors) and see if I cant get another season out of the motor, if she blows she blows.

Car ran great for a couple weeks the few times I actually got to drive it, parked it for a week and when I went to take it to storage last weekend it had a P0101 code and wouldnt make boost until I cleared it. Drove fine the rest of the way even at WOT but Im sure its leaking slightly from somewhere. I'll have to order a boost leak tester and test it come spring.

Intercooler
PCV, intake and valve cover gaskets
Pull the head off and clean the valves
Make sure I dont have any more boost leaks
Replace oil and coolant lines to turbo.


Should get me through another year or two. The car does have low miles, its just been beat on I think.