i have a TC with full bolt ons and pyskotuned

 

Not only do you get the cooling effect your also receiving the enhanced octane effect basically eliminating any chances of detonation at all when added to a car without changing the tune. Its like having immunity against detonation or cheap insurance for the motor.

Keep in mind as well that you can vary the water methanol mix you put in the tank. If your concerned with effecting the air fuel ratio and making it richer then it already may be. Then simply run a small percentage or no methanol in the mix temporarily till your able to get it tuned and then can step up the methanol percentage. Jet accordingly for the type of mix you use.

We have lots of customers and actually shops which will purposely install water methanol injection systems on vehicles without making any changes to the tune or ever planning too. Their not interested in making any additional power.

Rodney

 

meh.... just cause it keeps stage 2 sc motors alive doesnt mean the tc needs it. Turbocharged IATs are significantly lower, unless you run a retarded tune.

maybe you need meth if your turbo overspins past its efficiency and generates a ton of heat, and while your the meth may save detonation issues, it wont save your turbo components

basically IMO id save cash spent on this and put it toward a larger more efficient turbo and intercooler

 

anyone have anymore info on this once dead topic?

 

Bumpage for any new info

 

Got any questions just ask, i can help.

 

Old thread back to life

Anyone think of using a water/meth kit for intake valve cleaning purposes? No one walnut blasts where i live and i do not have the time to do it myself. Plus if steam cleans engine over time do you guys think a particular water spray set up would solve our valve coking problems? Say run it on highway commuting once or twice a month? Idk i am thinking of anything to solve this ridiculous issue with the lnf. My cold starts are horrible and my engine idle is all over the place some times, valves not seating properly is my guess.
Hopefully one of you guys has a solid answer.
thanks in advance

 

It might help prevent additional deposits but it's not going to do much for cleaning caked on deposits. The CRC DI stuff works ok but isnt a miracle cure.

Did you check the health of the engine before just assuming its coked valves causing the cold start and idle issues? Compression, leakdown, boost & vacuum leak test, spark plug inspection, etc.

 

crc worked best of all the products I've tried. But i will be installing new plugs gapped to spec and if that doesn't work then new maf sensor, then clean TB and if those don't work borescope the intake. Or maybe buy a borescope first lol
snailss and i both live in el paso and no one here walnut blasts. Except bmw but they only service bimmers...
I am surprised 10 year10and no one has found or made a solid cure for our engines.

 

I'd ask to speak directly to one of the BMW techs that does it and see if theyll take a side job

 

Eric - have you used the CRC DI cleaner? If so, where did you spray it in? Also, did you have someone hold the idle at 2000 rpm's when you sprayed it?

 

I have used the crc turbo gdi intake valve cleaner on my 2008 ss coupe twice before. I'm not here to promote it because I'm not sure if it really does anything. My take on it is to first manually clean your intake valves. Then it says on can to use every 10,000 miles. So ya I would use it as a preventative maintenance after manually cleaning. I took off the vacuum tank port hose & sprayed the cleaner through there. & I used a 2 1/2 foot screw driver to hold the gas pedal @ 2,200 rpms(short bursts to prevent hydro lock until can is empty). Supposed to turn car off after & let soak for an hour. Then drive. First time I did it I had no problems. 2nd time I got some serious shakes & back fire along with misfire codes. But all is well. I have 171,xxx miles & holding great compression. 156/158/162 / 159I'm about to get clutch done & timing done as a precautionary measure. No problems with car

 

I've used it on my cobalt and two different DI audi's. The cobalt I didn't notice a huge difference, although the valves had significant build up on them. The audi's both had a slightly rough idle (slight miss feeling every once and while if you weren't paying attention you wouldn't notice), after the treatment they idled smoother.

For the cobalt I sprayed in the intake tube past the maf, and had someone feather the throttle to keep it 2-2.5k.

 

I agree after cleaning the intake runners using the CRC would make a difference.

 

I agree with all you guys, crc worked temporarily the first time i used it. I've tried seafoam, the new stp cleaner and gum out. None really worked like I'd hoped. Manually cleaning is the only way it seems.
Again, how after all these years is there no solution beside manually cleaning? It is what it is i guess. Preventative maintenance after a manual cleaning is ideal. Didn't mean to hijack this thread lol i am gonna try spraying water similarly to crc method and see if it helps. I've heard mixed results steam cleaning.

 

The PCV system has been updated in more modern engines to reduce the amount of oil vapors making it past. I'm running a Radium Engineering AOS in place of where my Powell AOS was (Radium unit has ability to be heated by coolant, but requires custom fabrication and installation). I will likely next summer change out the setup and remove the intake PCV and reroute it through the Radium AOS like Tom did on his mishimoto catch cans