New Brakes
New Brakes
Hey guys. I am planning to put in front rotors/pads.
I am asking advice, I want to improve my stopping power.
What should I install, want to keep the stock brembo calipers, but willing to change everything else.
Are drilled/slotted rotors really worth it? I have heard they are a waste of money.
Cheers.
I am asking advice, I want to improve my stopping power.
What should I install, want to keep the stock brembo calipers, but willing to change everything else.
Are drilled/slotted rotors really worth it? I have heard they are a waste of money.
Cheers.
i have drilled/slotted R1 concepts rotors and they are very nice. I have heard that it is better to get just slotted and NOT drilled because the drilled can crack very easily so that is something to think about. Also spend the money and go with the hawk pads.
Hey guys. I am planning to put in front rotors/pads.
I am asking advice, I want to improve my stopping power.
What should I install, want to keep the stock brembo calipers, but willing to change everything else.
Are drilled/slotted rotors really worth it? I have heard they are a waste of money.
Cheers.
I am asking advice, I want to improve my stopping power.
What should I install, want to keep the stock brembo calipers, but willing to change everything else.
Are drilled/slotted rotors really worth it? I have heard they are a waste of money.
Cheers.
I like ceramic pads because the dust is a light gray and it doesn't make the wheel all black. i don't know how they will work on the SS but its something to consider. For a daily driver, that gets alot of miles and doesn't get washed as much as i like, its pretty nice. I had slotted and drilled rotors on an S-10. You have to remember a few things... #1 its all about cooling. If you are riding your breaks all day I'm sure that the drilled and vented rotors could crack. but for most applications the drilled rotors cool alot quicker. This allows the brakes to bleed heat off quicker there by allowing more heat energy to be absorbed and given off by the rotors. This in turn gives you slightly better stopping power. I had some cheapy summit brand drilled and vented rotors on my S-10 and they worked fine. I would tow boats and the brakes held up well. I think for the most part you get what you pay for and you have to do a little research on what you want to do with your particular application. Just be careful if you let your pads get too low. The studs in the pads could break of in the rotor or fracture the rotor... not good. And if they do warp you will have to get new rotors, I would definitely not turn drilled rotors to smooth out any variances in the rotor. Hope this helps its just my .02 so take it for what its worth.
Hey guys. I am planning to put in front rotors/pads.
I am asking advice, I want to improve my stopping power.
What should I install, want to keep the stock brembo calipers, but willing to change everything else.
Are drilled/slotted rotors really worth it? I have heard they are a waste of money.
Cheers.
I am asking advice, I want to improve my stopping power.
What should I install, want to keep the stock brembo calipers, but willing to change everything else.
Are drilled/slotted rotors really worth it? I have heard they are a waste of money.
Cheers.
Slotted/cross drilled rotors are more for appearance than they are for braking performance, they may help a bit in the wet but that's it (think about it this way with a slotted/cross drilled rotor you are taking away from the rotors braking surface area)
LNF brake setup is great x3. I dont agree with the ceramic post at all because i replaced my stock ones with ceramic pads and the sqeak so damn bad its not even funny. I have had them for a few months now and they have sqeaked terribly from day one. Its terrible.
The ceramics need a good anti-vibe coating on the back. It usually works well for me. Its some aerosol gooey stuff you can spray on the back that insulates the metal backer from the caliper so it wont squeek as much.
Get another set of the stock pads as the front stock pads on these cars are very good for your "spirited driver" (i.e. back canyon passes and autocross). If your planning on road racing (Solo 1) you will probably need to sets of pads one for the street and one for track.
Slotted/cross drilled rotors are more for appearance than they are for braking performance, they may help a bit in the wet but that's it (think about it this way with a slotted/cross drilled rotor you are taking away from the rotors braking surface area)
Slotted/cross drilled rotors are more for appearance than they are for braking performance, they may help a bit in the wet but that's it (think about it this way with a slotted/cross drilled rotor you are taking away from the rotors braking surface area)
The casting is more resistant to cracking but I feel that unless you are tracking the drilled R1 rotors you will be fine.
powerslot rotors are good.
I wouldn't have em drilled. They do offer a bit more performance in the RAIN...but not worth the risk of cracking. OK..the *high performance* cars have very thick rotors which are less resistant to cracking. You will NOT STOP any better with the holes..in fact, since there's a little less swept surface area (using stock rotor size), the braking could be slightly diminished.
I wouldn't have em drilled. They do offer a bit more performance in the RAIN...but not worth the risk of cracking. OK..the *high performance* cars have very thick rotors which are less resistant to cracking. You will NOT STOP any better with the holes..in fact, since there's a little less swept surface area (using stock rotor size), the braking could be slightly diminished.
All rotors are better in the rain than say drum brakes. They sling off water no matter what. The holes in a drilled rotor are for cooling. Thats all, just cooling. Most racing applications use them if there is continuous on and off braking heat cycles. The advantage is that the vents in the rotors have an outlet where air can flow. The key is continuous heat cycles. If you are driving down the freeway It wont make a difference. Take a look at the ZR-1 Vette. The holes in the carbon are aligned with the vents in the rotor. It has nothing to do with water. Properly drilled rotors wont crack. Surface area is only one part of braking effectiveness. The way that a brake system works, based on Physics, bases alot of importance on the rotor, pad, and caliper being able to shed heat quickly. The brake doesnt stop a car by smashing pads into a rotor. It changes mechanical energy into heat energy and the faster the heat energy is removed from the mechanical system the faster you stop. Surface area is a small part of the total package. Granted without a given amount of surface area the rotor would be ineffective.
Once again I dont want to offend anyone but based on pure Physics, if you are auto-xing or road raccing drilled and slotted is great... if you are drag racing a solid rotor is just fine since there isn't a whole buch of heat cycles.
Sorry If I hijacked the thread.
Originally Posted by RyRidesMotox;
Ok, I'm not going to intentionally step on anyone's toes here. But ^^^ is not accurate. Let me explain.
All rotors are better in the rain than say drum brakes. They sling off water no matter what. The holes in a drilled rotor are for cooling. Thats all, just cooling. Most racing applications use them if there is continuous on and off braking heat cycles. The advantage is that the vents in the rotors have an outlet where air can flow. The key is continuous heat cycles. If you are driving down the freeway It wont make a difference. Take a look at the ZR-1 Vette. The holes in the carbon are aligned with the vents in the rotor. It has nothing to do with water. Properly drilled rotors wont crack. Surface area is only one part of braking effectiveness. The way that a brake system works, based on Physics, bases alot of importance on the rotor, pad, and caliper being able to shed heat quickly. The brake doesnt stop a car by smashing pads into a rotor. It changes mechanical energy into heat energy and the faster the heat energy is removed from the mechanical system the faster you stop. Surface area is a small part of the total package. Granted without a given amount of surface area the rotor would be ineffective.
Once again I dont want to offend anyone but based on pure Physics, if you are auto-xing or road raccing drilled and slotted is great... if you are drag racing a solid rotor is just fine since there isn't a whole buch of heat cycles.
Sorry If I hijacked the thread.
All rotors are better in the rain than say drum brakes. They sling off water no matter what. The holes in a drilled rotor are for cooling. Thats all, just cooling. Most racing applications use them if there is continuous on and off braking heat cycles. The advantage is that the vents in the rotors have an outlet where air can flow. The key is continuous heat cycles. If you are driving down the freeway It wont make a difference. Take a look at the ZR-1 Vette. The holes in the carbon are aligned with the vents in the rotor. It has nothing to do with water. Properly drilled rotors wont crack. Surface area is only one part of braking effectiveness. The way that a brake system works, based on Physics, bases alot of importance on the rotor, pad, and caliper being able to shed heat quickly. The brake doesnt stop a car by smashing pads into a rotor. It changes mechanical energy into heat energy and the faster the heat energy is removed from the mechanical system the faster you stop. Surface area is a small part of the total package. Granted without a given amount of surface area the rotor would be ineffective.
Once again I dont want to offend anyone but based on pure Physics, if you are auto-xing or road raccing drilled and slotted is great... if you are drag racing a solid rotor is just fine since there isn't a whole buch of heat cycles.
Sorry If I hijacked the thread.
Ronn, no one casts their rotor holes anymore. There isn't a drilled rotor around that doesn't crack, except for carbon/carbon or carbon/ceramic. Carbon based rotors are in a different class. Most companies have moved to carbon/ceramic, like GM and the ZR1.
The holes used to be for old pad compounds that off gassed. Now it's only good for providing extra bite against the pad, and adding some pretend bling. It's about as cool and useful as gold plating badges.
I had to quote this because it's wrong for so many reasons. I'm not even going to try to correct you.
Ronn, no one casts their rotor holes anymore. There isn't a drilled rotor around that doesn't crack, except for carbon/carbon or carbon/ceramic. Carbon based rotors are in a different class. Most companies have moved to carbon/ceramic, like GM and the ZR1.
The holes used to be for old pad compounds that off gassed. Now it's only good for providing extra bite against the pad, and adding some pretend bling. It's about as cool and useful as gold plating badges.
Ronn, no one casts their rotor holes anymore. There isn't a drilled rotor around that doesn't crack, except for carbon/carbon or carbon/ceramic. Carbon based rotors are in a different class. Most companies have moved to carbon/ceramic, like GM and the ZR1.
The holes used to be for old pad compounds that off gassed. Now it's only good for providing extra bite against the pad, and adding some pretend bling. It's about as cool and useful as gold plating badges.
Its basic Physics, friction, and kinetic energy. I don't mind if you try to correct me that is what a forum is for. There are scientific reasons behind the way a car is designed. I'm just trying to point out the reason that brakes work the way they do. I have more technical references if you would like them.
Last edited by RyRidesMotox; Aug 14, 2010 at 10:41 AM. Reason: spelling
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