No-lift shift
No-lift shift
Hi everyone,
So got the new cobalt and decided to try out the nolift shift. I know I have to practice some more cause when I would no lift the rev would go pretty hi. Is this normal or do I have to shift even faster? What rev should I be seeing? Thanks.
40rty
So got the new cobalt and decided to try out the nolift shift. I know I have to practice some more cause when I would no lift the rev would go pretty hi. Is this normal or do I have to shift even faster? What rev should I be seeing? Thanks.
40rty
Welcome to the forums and congrats on the balt. Also, for Traction control, I thought that there was minimum tire spin when you had it on. I squel like crazy though. I'm guessing I still need some practice. Suggestions?
It'll still spin some.
For the no lift shift. I don't know man... probably just need to shift faster. You only have .2 or .3 seconds to complete the shift and it helps if you can get as close to redline as you can.
As the engineers said... one exhaust pop is good. More means you've hit the fuel cutoff.
For the no lift shift. I don't know man... probably just need to shift faster. You only have .2 or .3 seconds to complete the shift and it helps if you can get as close to redline as you can.
As the engineers said... one exhaust pop is good. More means you've hit the fuel cutoff.
Maybe a stupid question, but are you no-lifting at or near redline, or in the middle of the rpm range to just shift fast? If you try to no-life at 4k rpm then yeah, your revs are going to surge since the computer doesn't want you to shift like that during normal driving. 
Also, you do need to be pretty quick about it. I believe 2 tenths is the window you get before it hits the throttle again.

Also, you do need to be pretty quick about it. I believe 2 tenths is the window you get before it hits the throttle again.
I am assuming your 08/09 SS was new with no miles on it?
Just kinda shaking my head at the fact that your doing a NLS with a brand new car? If I am wrong and the engine/tranny was broken in nicely, then my bad. but yeah..
Just kinda shaking my head at the fact that your doing a NLS with a brand new car? If I am wrong and the engine/tranny was broken in nicely, then my bad. but yeah..
its reccommended that you do not do NLS until car is broken in but your car do what you want but if it is broken in you will need to have it close to redline as possible shift faster and you will hear the wonderful pop if done correctly.
ive been using the no lift sncei pulled out of the lot i did frist to second and second to third as i was leaving the parking lot but you do hav to be as close to redline as possible cause there it any reason to use it any other time cause its supposed to keep yo spooling during shifts
I've only have done NLS once on my balt, stupid of me, yes with only 72 miles on it. I have all the time been very gentel with my new car. What is it 1500 miles and nothing pass 4500rpm's?
What are the consequences for not breaking it in, like you should?
What are the consequences for not breaking it in, like you should?
Last edited by 40rty; Sep 1, 2008 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
500 miles
not to exceed 5,000 rpm
not to exceed 100mph
no full throttle starts
do not run a constant speed for long periods of time
The purpose is just to seat the rings, valves and things of that nature. Otherwise it could burn oil it's whole life, things like that.
I've heard people who say (and have done with without trouble) to either drive it how you intend to drive it or drive it like you stole it.
I followed the manual myself.
not to exceed 5,000 rpm
not to exceed 100mph
no full throttle starts
do not run a constant speed for long periods of time
The purpose is just to seat the rings, valves and things of that nature. Otherwise it could burn oil it's whole life, things like that.
I've heard people who say (and have done with without trouble) to either drive it how you intend to drive it or drive it like you stole it.
I followed the manual myself.
I read an article that say for the first 20 miles you should give the car as much hell as you can. Then do normal break in procedures. The first 20 miles are crucial to set the compression rings to the cylinder walls.
This is the article I found, the real one is on evoxforums.com
This is the article I found, the real one is on evoxforums.com
I read an article that say for the first 20 miles you should give the car as much hell as you can. Then do normal break in procedures. The first 20 miles are crucial to set the compression rings to the cylinder walls.
This is the article I found, the real one is on evoxforums.com
This is the article I found, the real one is on evoxforums.com
I had a GM powertrain engineer give me the exact same advice as the manual. Your engine builder knows more about your car than some article
For the first 500 miles I gave the engine light load and shifted easy, but still took it through varying levels of RPM up to 5k and then let it back down again. Accelerate slowly, maybe 25% throttle at most, and keep it in a lower gear, let the revs build up to 5k and then bring it back down, but don't pop the clutch...let the engine slow the car.
No and no. The LSD is a $495 option, and if the turbo is hot when the car is shut down, the fans will stay on and the coolant will circulate until it decides it's cool enough. On regular driving, I've had the fans stay on for maybe 10-20 seconds after turning it off. After a couple dyno pulls, the fans stayed on for almost 2 minutes. That's your built-in, fuel-saving turbo timer.
Page 2-21 in the owners manual = Break-in procedure
http://content.gmownercenter.yahoo.c...alt_owners.pdf
Also says to try to avoid engine braking.
http://content.gmownercenter.yahoo.c...alt_owners.pdf
Bullshit.
I had a GM powertrain engineer give me the exact same advice as the manual. Your engine builder knows more about your car than some article
For the first 500 miles I gave the engine light load and shifted easy, but still took it through varying levels of RPM up to 5k and then let it back down again. Accelerate slowly, maybe 25% throttle at most, and keep it in a lower gear, let the revs build up to 5k and then bring it back down, but don't pop the clutch...let the engine slow the car.
I had a GM powertrain engineer give me the exact same advice as the manual. Your engine builder knows more about your car than some article
For the first 500 miles I gave the engine light load and shifted easy, but still took it through varying levels of RPM up to 5k and then let it back down again. Accelerate slowly, maybe 25% throttle at most, and keep it in a lower gear, let the revs build up to 5k and then bring it back down, but don't pop the clutch...let the engine slow the car.
For the no-lift shifting, remember all it does is help hold boost to get back into power better after the shift is completed. You want to start your shift right before red line and complete a normal, but quick, shift using the clutch pedal just like you would with any other shift. Don't try to force the shifter faster then it wants to go and don't hammer the gear change. Just perform the shift normally but slightly faster than normal with the only difference being that your foot keeps the gas to the floor.
Page 2-21 in the owners manual = Break-in procedure
http://content.gmownercenter.yahoo.c...alt_owners.pdf
Also says to try to avoid engine braking.
http://content.gmownercenter.yahoo.c...alt_owners.pdf
Also says to try to avoid engine braking.
I'm not talking about engine braking. Simply lifting throttle and coasting with it still in the selected gear.
Engine braking would be downshifting and quickly brining the RPM back up in order to slow down. Essentially, putting a lot of load very quickly on the engine.



