I named this thread this because. A lot of people have questions about a lot of things...so i figured we compile them here.

I for one have some questions.

If a Exhaust DP is good for 20hp
Intake 15hp
Charge Piping 3-6 hp
Intercoler 10 hp.

Why does the tune seem to be pushing it so much? 20 psi? for 300 hp? i dont understand this concept.

 

The HP #'s that are listed for alot of products are peak HP, or it is not at the wheels. And alot of times they put #'s down with a combination of products just to show you what you can expect with a few different mods together as opposed to one single mod. The DP is probably really only good for like 8-10whp, 3" exhaust, maybe 5whp, intake probably 10whp at most and charge piping is probably good for 8whp at most, and the intercooler maybe 10whp at most aswell, the intercooler really is just to help cool everything down alot faster and more accurate. But again you cant just add these numbers together and tell someone you're pushing this much power. Just buy the mods, install them, get a tune and go dyno your car.

 

yes plus they had horse power at different point in the powerband so adding these numbers together would be wrong like stated above

 

What is there to understand about tuning? you will not gain much power unless you tell the turbo to force more air into the motor. Increasing the compressor speed and hence the pressure level is the easiest way to accomplish this. I am pretty sure a good high flow DP is good for around 15 whp or so and an intake around 15 whp, but you cannot just add those all numbers to come with your hp numbers it does not necessarily work out that way. If it did we would have 345 whp stock turbo TCs and I dont think that will happen without at least a set of cams and some head work with the stock turbo. The intercooler does not really add much power but is does give you more consistant power because it resists heatsoak better than the stock one. I am getting Clearimage's chargepiping and downpipe soon, and I will being getting redynoed and my tune tweaked a little to see what those boltons produce as far as gains. I am hoping to gain 18-20 whp or so but we will see.

 

um..you do know the forum is divided up into sections for people to ask these types of questions..otherwise we would just have a forum with 1 section.. fail thread bring on the ******!

 

I'm trying to understand your question.

I think what you are asking is why does the tune have to push it to 20psi when all he mods claim to give you x amount of hp.

because those numbers where with a tune
and it dosn't add up like that either
intake= 15
pipes = 3
intercooler = 5
exhaust = 20
would = 43 hp


does not work like this these numbers are usually from the mods alone or with other mods already their. plus those number will not be seen on a stock car because of the re-learn

 

For example - if they claim intake adds 15 hp and exhaust 20. That's 35. BUT... you can't just add them. Together they might 25 or 30.

Other things come into play as they have said. The intake may add mostly hp and not much torque... just depends. Plus it may only add hp to say... above 4k rpm.

This is just example... so no one take this serious. But a downpipe may add to hp and tq. Plus it might add to the entire rpm range.

It all just depends on specifics of what it is. what it's combined with, how big... etc. etc.

One mod might add 10 and another 20. But if the one adds 10 to the majority of the rpm range and 20 is simply peak at like... 5K +. You might notice the 10 hp mod more.

The tune. Well since the stock turbo has quick spool up and spools up low in the rpm range. It's a big power gain to both hp and tq along with that gain being applied to most of the rpm range.

I have a feeling I just made a bunch of jumble, but I hope it helps. LOL

 

i am understanding a little more...i was hoping others had some question also!

Also...

BOV

if i get one...and the block-off plate...why do i hear about peole having problems with em?

 

bump for help

 

If you do not connect the BOV properly you will get a CEL. You have to connect the hose the goes to the factory BPV to the new BOV and if you get a block off plate i think that is all. It is better if you recirculate the new BOV back into the intake otherwise you will get a rich condition of a few seconds after every time the BOV releases. Check out Dejon Powerhouses website for some more info on BOV for our cars. The BOV is generally thought of as a sound mod, but this is not entirely the case as the stock BPV is barely adequate for our motor at stock boost levels when you are tuned or running the bigger compressor wheel upgrade the stock BPV is inadequate at recirculating all the extra air. That is why the car seems to bog pretty bad for a second or so after you lift to shift. The BOV will vent the air faster and will close sooner so it reduces lag between shifts.

 

I ran the vacuum lines all weird and had problems. now i have it figured out for now but am ordering a block off plate. I originally ran a T off of the vacuum line from the factory BPV and just used the extra line from the T for the new BOV. apparently I was all wrong and you have to run the vacuum line from the Cold side piping to the factory BPV and the line originally from the BPV to the new BOV. Confusing I know lol

 

Yeah, it is pretty confusing. I got confused from just reading your post
I think it is alot easier if you get the block off anyway so you dont have to worry about splicing in and adding that extra line for the factory BPV still. Its better to just get rid of that thing if you have a BOV.

 

So how do you Recirculate the BOV?

 

You have to tap into the intake. I think it is usually done before the turbo, but after the MAF, so you are not having a huge mass of air slamming into the turbine backwards. That causes the turbine to slow or even stall, I think, That is very bad.

I think you have to drill and tap and install a fitting of some kind but I am not completely sure. If you want more specific info on recirculating the BOV I would contact Dave at Dejon or Bill Hahn they would know for sure what needs to be done and they sell those parts as well.

 

What exactly do you mean Tap into the intake?
so the flanges that are on the boost tubing now are wrong?

 

Which flanges on the boost tubing? The sensors on the coldside are all retained. Those go to your IAT2 and MAP sensors. Your BOV gets installed on the hotside after the turbo on a flange that is welded to your chargepiping. Then you connect your vac line that goes to the stock BPV to the new BOV, and if you use a block off plate your done. If you still want to retain your factor BPV you have to splice into one of the hoses that come out of the distribution block on top of the intake. The new hose goes to your stock BPV. See my post above for more info.

 

off topic, but mazda are you going to eecmm in june?

 

On the Bov thing...sorry i am kinda lost man lol work with me

When you get boost tubing. They can weld on a flange for the BOV right. right. and that is on the cold side. right? so with that being done. what is going on there



What is that?

 

The BOV flage is on the hotside, the pipe that goes over the top of the motor. The coldside connects to the throttle body and has the sensors for MAP and IAT2 on it.

 

ahhh ok. gotcha now. i had those backwards thanks.

So i saw on Dejon's side they have a tube that recirculates it. anyone used that?