Is the piping supposed to be clamped right in front of the barb?
Is the piping supposed to be clamped right in front of the barb?
The barb on the end of the IC pipe that is. Is the hose clamp supposed to be right at it, or is the clamp supposed to be all the way up at the tank of the IC? My dealer keeps putting on all the way to the tank and it keeps blowing off.
I'm not totally sure what you are talking about and where. I assume the upper piping? Did the plastic clamps come off? What type of clamps are they using? If you aren't using t-clamps then this is a futile effort, get t-clamps. They should be clamped right above the part where it gets wide. Put them where you think they will work..
I'm talking about the intercooler pipe and the coldside and hotside rubber tubing. The clamps on the tubing cannot be moved on the stock tubing because they're held in place at the end of the tubing. The intercooler pipe that the tubing attaches to on both sides of the intercooler is what I'm talking about. Should those worm clamps be tightened down near the barb, which is at the end of the plastic intercooler tubing, or should they be tightened up near the tank. The platic intercooler tubes, which are part of the end tanks are about 4 inches long, with the barb at the end. There is, therefore, 4 inches of room to attach the clamps, from all the way at the tank, to right next to the barb.
Ugh. I need to take pictures but my car is in the shop. Someone take a picture of the stock clamp positions on the coldside and hotside of the intercooler please.
Ugh. I need to take pictures but my car is in the shop. Someone take a picture of the stock clamp positions on the coldside and hotside of the intercooler please.
Thank you sir. That's what I thought. I convinced my dealership tech to do it this way: right behind the barb. It's holding so far. Just so you guys with stock ICs know, if you blow the coldside pipe, it will break the IC tank everytime.
Yeah, it's definitely important to just take a look at the basics. Boost pushes the limits of every piece that is mechanical. Pieces like charge piping produce a lot of pressure that strains a lot and they end up pulling the couples straight of the piping. Using stronger clamps like t-clamps helps offer that extra protection over worm clamps. There are many, many places to source better clamps...
Let us know if you need help sourcing better clamps.
I have no real experience with the LNF setup, but I'm sure it's pretty straight forward to upgrade things like this...
This company offers great deals on this kind of stuff:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
Let us know if you need help sourcing better clamps.
I have no real experience with the LNF setup, but I'm sure it's pretty straight forward to upgrade things like this...
This company offers great deals on this kind of stuff:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
Yeah, it's definitely important to just take a look at the basics. Boost pushes the limits of every piece that is mechanical. Pieces like charge piping produce a lot of pressure that strains a lot and they end up pulling the couples straight of the piping. Using stronger clamps like t-clamps helps offer that extra protection over worm clamps. There are many, many places to source better clamps...
Let us know if you need help sourcing better clamps.
I have no real experience with the LNF setup, but I'm sure it's pretty straight forward to upgrade things like this...
This company offers great deals on this kind of stuff:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
Let us know if you need help sourcing better clamps.
I have no real experience with the LNF setup, but I'm sure it's pretty straight forward to upgrade things like this...
This company offers great deals on this kind of stuff:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



