I would still recommend a more perminant fix when you have time. Or a turbo swap

 

glad you a got it to work but you need to get a more permanent fix like import killer suggests. I would recommend a insert over a heli coil if you can make it work with out drilling to close to edge of the flange

 

Here's a compressor housing for $75 and $14 shipping. Might be able to offer him less...

here

 

i stripped one bolt when changing the spring on the stock bpv, i tightened it as much as it goes before it losens again, and put silicon on it, it worked. been running that 2 years.

 

Im missing a bolt from the bpv....**** it leave it if your not having any problems hahaha

 

The larger bolt is a permanent solutions to me

I'll probably get a turbo swap

 

I know it's kind of late, but the manufacturer provides torque specs for the bolts for a reason.. IMO just being "tight" doesn't cut it.

 

What's the spec for those bolts?

 

I was asking the same thing earlier... somewhere there is a .pdf manual of this stuff... ofcourse hanes or chilton too my have this, but I'm not sure if they even make the books for our cars... just going off of the old days when my camaro and Hanes/chilton were friends.

btw I had read on another forums for mazdas where someone had a similar issue saying that the torque settings for those tiny little bolts were 75 in/lbs .... now, maybe my math is jacked.. but that seems like alot for such a small bolt...

here is the thread: Installing Forge BPV...broke bolt going into manifold..

I certainly can't confirm any real numbers for you..but I have looked... so obviously this number is NOT official by any means.

 

Idk what the specs are but just get them "snug"- a little past the 1st point of resistance and you should be good to go. For Gods sake don't over tighten them.

 

mine did the same thing...all i did was use a longer bolt and it was perfect!

 

what number bolt/screw did you use?.. and was it the stock one? or did you purchase it...just want to find a supply just incase I need them... and hopefully I wont!!

 

They do make self tapping bolts slightly larger than the original for this purpose as well.

 

The torque spec on all the Bypass valve bolts is 89lb in or 10NM Very very little.

 

Jb weld always works. :P

 

I have this same problem.

So self tapping bolt?
Longer bolt? Or heli-coil?

 

I want a permanent fix. I don't want a temporary fix.

 

Anyone? I might just try the longer bolts...

 

Strength-wise: Helicoil>Self-tapping>Longer bolt. Reverse that for easiness.

The issue of just trying to use a self-tapping bolt is you may need to drill out the BPV hole to accept the larger bolt. You'd also want to use a regular bolt rather than the tapping bolt after the hole is made...which means you may as well just use a regular tap rather than the self-tapping bolt if you go that way.

 

I did same thing with my stock turbo, just run a tap and use a slightly bigger bolt, worked fine for me

 

And also those bolts only need 89 inch pounds , which is not much, just use blue locktite.

 

I did the same thing too but like 2 years ago I just tightened the screw down right befor it spins no issues haha i seen this thread pop up and was thinking about taking it off to inspect but if it's not popping a code it must be holding tight.

 

This is the answer I was looking for. I have no problem tapping out larger holes on both the turbo and the bpv. I just want it fixed and i have access to the tools to do so I just wanted to know what the best fix was.
I saw that you did as well. I was hoping you of all people would reply. If heli-coil is too advanced for me I'll just tap it larger and use a bigger bolt.

 

If you just tap, be sure to drill out (not tap) the bpv. Probably not a huge deal on this part, but normally you can't have treads on the first member, otherwise the bolt doesn't clamp the joint.

 

Yeah I didn't plan on threading the bpv. I was gonna just try and file it out to accept the larger bolt so it's still smooth.