Did you check all the ones in the kick panel?

 

I experienced a similar issue to this on a brand new 08 SS/TC that came straight from the factory with the problem. The lights came on just like this. One day it would start and the next there was nothing but would have warning lights. When scanned there were a lot of loss communication codes. It finally acted up long enough to check it out and it turned out that the data communication wires going to the OnStar module (VCIM) had a really poor connection causing the other modules after it to be unable to communicate. If I remember right it included the PCM, EBCM, and the PSCM. With out the communications with the other modules it does not know what relays to activate to allow you to start the vehicle or know what the status of the other systems are. Hope this helps and its not too confusing.

 

No I didn't. Will do.

Not confusing at all. That makes since. Did you take it to the dealer to get it fixed or did you do it yourself.

 

I was a technician at a GM dealer at the time so I fixed it myself. Once I found it it was no problem but it was a royal pain trying to initially track it down. Everything would check out fine when checking the wires with a meter. I had to replace the terminals on the OnStar (VCIM) connector because terminals were not making a good connection. When it was plugged in you could wiggle the harness and it would cause the issue to either happen or stop. I am assuming the times it would work fine was due to the expansion and contraction of the materials under different temperatures.

 

So if I take it to the dealer tomorrow. Should I tell them to check the VCIM terminals? Its definitely an electrical problem whatever it is. The car is damn near new. Only 25000 miles.

 

Yes, I would definitely let them know about that issue. It is not a common thing that I have seen but it may help them. The first thing they will do is scan it using a GM Tech2 or MDI and see what codes are set. If it is from loss of communication they may just want to take the time to wiggle test the harnesses to see if the issue can be duplicated. The VCIM is under the rear deck lid so they would have to remove it to get to it unfortunately. I agree it sounds like an electrical problem. If the car ever throws a code or has some kind of failure before turning the car off if you have an OnStar subscription you can hit the blue button and ask them to run a Diagnostic Check and ask them for the codes. You may have to pry a little but they will eventually tell you.

 

So I was just wondering have you had this at the dealer for anything before? If so have they printed off the GM VIS for you? It should have all your warranty information and any warranty history that may have been previously done even work that may have been done before you bought it PDI ect.? they can also give you a copy of the vehicle build that tells you what the RPO break down is. I have friends now that can do this for me. If you take it in and get a good technician they should have a good understanding where to start and be able to fix it. Sometimes techs are like making a customer service call to verizon or similar company the first person is and Idiot and so you call back and that person is extremely helpful. Try asking if they have a Cobalt or HHR SS specialized or LNF tech. Just someone that would understand more about these vehicles. Our dealer for awhile had people like this. I was actually the Cobalt HHR Solstice, Ecotec, and second Corvette tech until they decided to restructure things there which drove me to move to another career. If you take it to the dealer I would be curious to find out what they found the problem to be.

 

Plan on taking it tomorrow. Its been at the dealer for many things. Hell I had the car for only a week when spark plug #3 blew. They recently replaced my steering wheel positioning sensor. They've never printed the VIS for me. I will defiantly ask for their LNF specialist. Ill keep this thread posted with what happens.

 

mine was fixed last night, starter had a lot of play in it. mine starts perfectly now... sorry i couldnt be to much help.

 

Well. I'm at the dealer. Their saying whatever is causing the car not to start would be covered under warranty. They didn't charge me the $98 to look at it so that's good.

 

If its covered under the warranty that is good. You should not get charged anything for warranty repairs.

If it was not something that was covered under warranty, a dealer can still warranty it under what is called a goodwill. You could talk to the service manager and argue that the car has low mileage and should no have these issues or had the previous issue that were addressed. Usually they will say Ok, this is what we can do. They may cover it completely or make you pay some sort of deductible. I the grand scheme of things if it cost 500 to repair and you pay 100 deductible or nothing its works out great for you. If that does not work just call GM customer service and usually they will force the dealer to fix it and should not cost you anything. I have learned these things from experience and seen many customers use these avenues not to pay for anything even newer vehicles with high mileage.

I hope they find out what is going on and get this addressed for you.

 

Let me know what it is I am having the same problem.

 

Hey any new info on if you got your issue fixed and what fixed it?

 

I had something like this but I was listening to music with the car off and switching out my rims and my retarded CEL light would flash rapidly and the anti theft light was on. Only thing that fixed it was some industrial sized jumper cables and it started. I recently had the dealer replace my ignition and i used my old key that probably wasn't programmed for it. But that's only thing I could think of.. havent had anything like this in 97k miles.

 

Gremlins.

 

These cars are notorious for having ignition problems. Keys would would comonly get stuck in the ignition with the early style ignition lock cylinder because it would come apart in the housing. They were just a poor design. The new design is better for the purpose that it won't come apart in the cylinder. The shifters would come apart in the automatics and cause the key to get stuck because the bar could not hit the key release switch when the car was put into park.

As far as electrical issues they have had a few but not too many. They will as with many other cars too will do some weird things when the battery drains below 10 volts.

As far as unprogrammed keys go. The nice thing is if you have a already programmed key you can put it in the ignition the the key to the on position and turn it off and within 15 seconds put the unprogrammed key in and turn it to the on position and turn it off. Volia the key should now be learned to the vehicle and start it. If you loose all your keys well to learn new keys sucks. You have to do a 30 min procedure which involves turning the key on and leaving it on for 10 minutes until the security light turns off and repeat 2 more times and sometimes it won't even work the first time. But you have to keep a fully charged battery.

This is probably more information than anyone wanted lol. I do agree all cars come with free gremlins from the factory!

 

The OnStar thing makes the most sense. Either that, or someone shot your car with one of those "Fast and Furious 6" disabler-disks.

 

lmao ^

 

I have not seen that movie yet now I need to go see it lol! But that is a possible idea. We have a screwy government who knows what big brother does when we are not paying attention.

 

OK! Sorry it took me so long to give an update. They got my car in and out in one day. they told me that the ECU had a crap load of LOW VOLTAGE codes. they seen the jump-box in my trunk and the new battery so they figured that was the problem. They applied some updates and set me on my way. The thing is. My car has a hella rough idle now. It drives fine I'm still getting crazy boost but still!

 

A/C on when you have that rough idle? You can try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU.

 

Nope. The ac usually isn't on. I'll reset it again and see what happens. If that doesn't work its back to the dealer

 

Not completely sure I cannot remember if our cars have it. Will have to look it up again but, It sounds like to me that the dealer did not perform the idle relearn procedure.